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Mikekindofabaddaddavies

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About Mikekindofabaddaddavies

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  1. [TR] Quartz Mountain - Training Day 07/14/2018

    Got all thirteen pitches in last Sunday with Russel Cunningham, and had an absolute blast. first things first, I lost my keys out there, i just went up to the base of the climb yesterday to look for them, no dice. My best guess is that they are near the top of pitch 9 as we took a little nap in the trees there. If anyone goes up in the next couple weeks please give a quick look around as its my only reliable truck key. Next, great route. p1-7 Apart from the first feature off the ground (I went to the far right under the roof then right,) which doesn't protect well, i find this to be great climbing which i would recommend to anyone, the climbing is clean and the route is easy to find. I've climber up to the top of seven twice now, the first time i didn't pay attention to the "yard on cedars" beta, and went far right on the upper face to a feature that climbs back right to the anchor. It was scary but really good climbing. This time I "yarded on cedars" and thought that was unnecessary, I had Russel just climb five feet to the right of the trees on top rope and it definitely went too. Thus I would be willing to go up there with some one with the knowhow and see if we can't put a couple bolts in the greatly improve that section of the climb. p8 is fine, bolts are a little hidden at the top, commit and you'll find them p9 - pretty rambling - look for my keys. p10 was my favorite pitch. interesting enough climbing and finally a lot of exposure p11 i was not too fond of, slippery dirty scrubby, I was pretty that i was belaying from the wrong tree, as it turn out i wasn't, to stay on track just follow the border of the Forrest and the slab, and you'll get there. 12 and 13 went well and rapping was very straight forward. I agree that the rap line looks like a brilliant climb, until you get to the second to last rap and steepness really picks up. I went up yesterday on my key recon and got a few pictures of it. Maybe there is an option to the far right, but it doesn't take a lot of climbing at the fee demo wall to realize that 5.9 and 5.12 really look a lot alike. Never the less it could be worth poking around . Also, it looks like there could be a scrubby crappy bushy route to the far left of the rap line, but i'm not sure that would be worth it.
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