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About curtveld

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    old hand
  • Birthday 12/03/1961


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  1. The correct answer is to study the weather until the last minute before you decide. If you are blessed, do the Ptarmigan as an in-and-out. Start from Cascade Pass and go as far as you want before reversing your steps. If you're fit and motivated, you could probably bag Dome in that time. Requires no shuttle, zero shwacking and the scenery is good enough to look at from the other direction.
  2. Mt. Thielsen gear

    Did that route a loooong time ago, but remember it as way more fun than most Oregon volcanoes. We did the summit rope-less up and down and it didn't seem too difficult. Still I would bring along a light rope and couple of slings and maybe nuts. If you're comfortable leading without gear, all you need is a way to anchor yourself on top so you can top rope your buds up and then down. After that, just down climb and avoid coaching your novices through any airy rappels. And fergodsakes, pick a nice day - the don't call it the Lightning Rod of the Cascades for nothing!
  3. FS 2060 Clear Ck rd Good, Squire Ck Rd, Not So

    Thanks Bill. Also, there is some road work scheduled for the #2060 this summer. Supposed to start in July and only create temporary delays on weekdays. Bigger dips and less potholes, for a while anyway.
  4. 2018 Dtown access updates

    Took a look up the 2060 with the Hanman and his big-ass truck. The road is in decent shape and clear of snow for about 4 miles until the flats before the turnoff to Exfo, where we gave up the fight. That left about a mile of easy walking to the 8-mile trailhead. The hot weather this week could be very helpful, of course. Impressive snow accumulation around the base of 3 O Clock Rock! Most of the first pitch of Silent Running requires snow boots. On the south side, it extends about 20 feet up. Good training for the Bugaboos, I reckon. The good news is that the rock is mostly dry and no major rockfalls noted. But spring is coming slowly again this year
  5. Any climbing mentors???

    Another thing would be to ask for a partner(s) for a specific day or weekend trip. Much less commitment in a 'blind date' type situation, then see if things click. And you are far from a novice, so you don't necessarily need a more experienced partner all the time to progress toward your goals. Good luck!
  6. Here's your route, Darin: Sunchips. Not particularly alpine, but looks like fun climbing. From a Stuart Zone camp, I'd be looking at the scramble routes up Argonaut or Colchcuck Pks. Distinctly alpine and all you need are boots and ice axes
  7. There were so many little odd occurrences after the accident. You may have heard that the people that found Gary's wallet lived a short distance from Shirley in Tucson. I'm sure that Shirley and Cara appreciated your support through all that. Yeah, Lovers Leap was on my list for years and was well worth it. A great place for those of us working our way back down through the grades.
  8. Hi Dan - yeah that was a fine day in the mountains, as I recall. Good to see you still kicking around and dispensing great advice! And, yes Gary's memories live on with many of us. His mom wrote a wonderful book about her personal experiences after the accident: http://www.shirleysbook.com/roaring-mountain.html
  9. All it needs is a "best of CC" tag! Your previous Sawtooth TR inspired me and Andy to go up there the following year during larch season. Well worth it.
  10. Awesome! I'd go climb them tomorrow if they weren't white. The A1 ratings might discourage a few novices but actually sound pretty mellow. Probably don't even need aiders?
  11. FS 2060 Clear Ck rd Good, Squire Ck Rd, Not So

    Road's a little rough from the fall rains, though not too bad. Bottomed out the Corolla at one of the dips, so bring a pickup or SUV. Lots of 3 O Clock Rock is dry and nice, at least the east and southern exposures! Northern slabs still a bit wintery!
  12. Fabulous pics! That area has a lot more to offer than slab climbing.
  13. An amazing spot, Jason. Similar in scale to Snow Creek Wall, but with about 5X as many quality climbs And yeah, there are still gumbies about: When I reached the stance on Haystack I asked the belayer if he knew Patrick 'so-and so' and he said "yeah that's me!?" I told him I'd found his wallet dangling in the brush below the climb. From his struggles, I think it may have been his first outdoor climb. Another dude was rope-gunning his date up Corrugation Corner for her first crag climb. We coached her from below on how to stem and remove pro. Some cursing, but no epics!
  14. Trip: Lovers Leap Road Trip - Corrugation Corner and others Trip Date: 09/18/2016 Trip Report: In honor of the new software, here's the last TR I tried to post over a year ago, before giving up after 17 failed attempts to cut and paste. Anyway, this was a 9-day road trip to Lovers Leap near Lake Tahoe. Despite the epic drive, we managed to climb something every day. Day 1. Crossed Snoqualmie Pass in a monsoon and continued south to drier Central Oregon. Snacked on some crappy Safeway potato salad and headed to Smith, where we were greeted by sign saying ‘all parking full’. Not true, but very busy indeed! Headed off to Voyage of the Cowdog (3p 5.8). With parties of three ahead and behind us, it was a collective voyage, though plenty congenial. At the top, we ditched the rappels for the ledgy walk-off, arguably as adventurous as the climb. Pleasant enough, but a bigger change in scenery was required. Final pitch of Voyage of the Cowdog at Smith Day 2. Headed southeast through the dry lake country, passing Lakeview, Susanville, Reno, and South Lake Tahoe, reaching the Leap in late afternoon. The local store provided us with a new Supertopo guide and beta from uber-local “Squirrel”. We got right on Ham and Cheese, a 3 pitch 5.7 on the Hogsback. Squirrel assured us all we’d need was “8 draws and two beers”. Good beta! High desert near Lakeview Oregon During the 10 minute return to camp, it sunk in how sweet this place is. Excellent walk-in campsites 15 minutes from multi-pitch classics, with a rustic lodge, bar and gear shop nearby. Giant food/gear bins at each site, great bouldering, no RVs, all for $10 per night! Sweet walk-in camping at Lovers Leap Day 3. Monday morning and the crag was quiet, so we jumped right on Bear’s Reach, a super-classic 3 pitch 5.7 on the East Wall. After a taste of dike-laced slab, several hundred feet of steep flake grabbing and intermittent cracks. In the running for the best 5.7 I’d ever done, at least for the next 24 hours. An easy walk-off led back to lunch and Preparation H (the climb, not the ointment!) and upper Haystack at 5.8, which was more of a true crack climb, with small overhangs to spice things up. East Wall of Lovers Leap (borrowed from the web) Day 4. Hit the supreme 6 pitch link-up of Surrealistic Pillar to Corrugation Corner. The Pillar (3 p. 5.7) wanders up steep dikes with sections of crack climbing. A classic in its own right, it was quickly overshadowed by Corrugation Corner, surely the most awesome 5.7 anywhere! The first pitch is nice corner climbing with a couple bouldery spots and a fingery traverse. From there, we craned our necks back to assess the nearly vertical corner of pitch two. Holy shit – that’s 5.7?! You follow the corner 20’ then traverse left to an extremely airy arête, with positive knobs and fixed pins keeping it sane. Pitch 2 finishes with the fabled Beached Whale move. Pitch three has a bit of chimney climbing then a looong sunny corner, high on the wall. Just an amazing climb, every pitch a classic. Approaching the supreme link-up of Surrealistic Corner (center) and Corrugation Corner (upper left) Crazy dike hiking on Surrealistic Pillar Corrugation Corner next! (right above Andy's head) CC, Pitch 2 arete. Sooo much fun! All smiles at the top of the link-up Day 5. Wetness, WTF? Andy’s bag was soggy, so we headed to So. Lake Tahoe for a laundromat and hot breakfast. The showers cleared so we checked out the Luther Spires – tiny pinnacles with a not-so-tiny approach. Good way to stretch the legs anyway Luther Spires, pretty but a little....underwhelming Day 6. Clear but chilly. Foolishly jumped on the shady Better with Bacon (5.8). The first pitch is 5.6 slab climbing with tiny pro. The second pitch was also nice but freezing. Checked out the original Pony Express trail, which runs right through the campground, then packed up and headed north. Day 7. Graffiti along the Pony Express Trail, which runs right under Lovers Leap Welcome to Lassen Volcanic Park, sort of a mini-hybrid of Mt St Helens and Yellowstone. We checked the climbing box by bagging an actual summit. And though Lassen is a sizable mountain (~10,500’), it boasts a nicely engineered summit trail with interpretive signs every half mile! It’s obviously popular, based on the Wal-Mart size parking lot. From there, we checked out the thermal area known as Bumpass Hell. Steaming, hissing, sulphury mudpots with boardwalks and scary warning signs, just like Jellystone. Trail and summit of Mt Lassen Bumpass Hell, Lassen Park Day 8. Mostly an I-5 day, but with a short stop at Skinners Butte in Eugene, one of the formative crags of my youth. Great basalt climbing and fairly quiet, given the Duck game going on across town. Heck of a week! Skinners Butte Columns in Eugene, one of the best urban crags in the PNW! Gear Notes: Honda Pilot, camping and cragging gear, SuperTopo Tahoe guide Approach Notes: Road Maps