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Everything posted by JasonG
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But that open book is certainly worth doing at least once! Not without danger to attain, as you mention.
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There is no statue of limitations on cc.com topics. The more obscure, the better.
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Blame Darin!
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[TR] The Devil's Tongue - Standard- Illegal Immigration Ridge 9/16/2017
JasonG replied to JasonG's topic in North Cascades
I didn't know V3 was even possible! Thanks Mike, glad you liked the photos. That wall on Lemolo is something else.... -
Wow, that is a serious effort! Glad it all turned out OK, and thanks for persevering on the TR bugs.
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Sigh. Sorry! Try this, maybe? http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1149152/Trip_Report_Issue#Post1149152 If not, send me a PM and we can get the content up! Promise.
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[TR] The Devil's Tongue - Standard- Illegal Immigration Ridge 9/16/2017
JasonG replied to JasonG's topic in North Cascades
And.....just added more captions. You know, to kill the mystery a bit. -
[TR] The Devil's Tongue - Standard- Illegal Immigration Ridge 9/16/2017
JasonG replied to JasonG's topic in North Cascades
It is awaiting your ascent of the Tongue Oly! I had no idea what I was looking at other than a breaker bar with an old axe head shoved on top. I will look it up now, I'm curious. And sorry to spill the beans on the top sekrit moderator hideout. Obviously I got carried away when I was inserting pics. Darin- I took that photo just for you. -
Trip: The Devil's Tongue - Standard- Illegal Immigration Ridge Date: 9/16/2017 Trip Report: In anticipation of our 2018 unsupported mission to the North Pillar of the Devil's Thumb Scott and I recently completed a training climb of the Devil's Tongue. We feel it is a good step towards our end goal, mainly because we saw THREE bears..... and we hear AK has a few of them. That, and we had to ford a river (THE MIGHTY SKAGIT), fight with a Barred Owl, and scramble lichen encrusted EXPOSED third class rock. It was pretty intense. But the pastoral scenery from camp and the approach to the peak helped to calm our nerves, even when we had to sweep bear scat from out chosen tent site. Intense! The chocolate didn't hurt either. But unless you're planning on the Devil's Thumb next year, there's probably no reason to climb the Devil's Tongue. This report is mainly to save you the effort of finding out firsthand why nobody goes up there (we were first party to sign in this year). See what I mean? the MIGHTY Skagit: Jack and Ross Lake: Hard Mox and that wall that Lunger and Layton climbed on Lemolo (separate trips): Luna and S. Pickets: More Lunger and Rat FA's, Zorro wall on N. Hozo and NF of S. Hozo: Northern Lights on the left horizon, fire in BC on the right: THE DEVIL'S TONGUE: Foxy Moxy: The Impressive NFs of McNaught and Rahm to the right of the Devil's Tongue: Custer (L) and Rahm ® from the summit: Scott on the summit with Spickard behind: Hazy Pickets: Scott inspecting his tax dollars at work: Hardman living at camp: Good bivy on way to Trailhead: Gear Notes: Helmet, cord for hanging food. Approach Notes: Old Galene Lakes Trail. Save mileage by fording the Skagit after walking from the Nepopekum day use parking area to river. Follow flagged route uphill on far side which deposits you at Middle Galene lakes. Follow your nose cross country from there.
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Ummmmmm..... DAMN.
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[TR] Slesse East Pillar Attempt and SE Couloir Descent - 9/26/2017
JasonG replied to mutz's topic in North Cascades
Sorry about how buggy the site is Chris! If you're willing to email me the content we can work to get it inserted here. Check your PMs... -
[TR] Dakobed Slam - Sheepherder Trail Approach 9/11/2017
JasonG replied to KaskadskyjKozak's topic in North Cascades
speaking of Jason G... he left an interesting playing card in the summit register... choss dawgs FTW! I might be guilty by association, but those aren't my cards officers! Honest. I have to admit that I'm looking out my window nervously for Guido right now......as I work on my next TR. -
[TR] Slesse Traverse is up for grabs - 8/31/2017
JasonG replied to wayne's topic in British Columbia/Canada
That's fast! Well done. -
If you are starving for protein at 5000m, maybe.
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Tony Reece of Hi Line Helicopters recenty passed
JasonG replied to num1mc's topic in Climber's Board
Tony was the best helicopter pilot the North Cascades has ever seen, a true legend. I feel honored to have flown with him and owe him a debt for saving the life of a friend of mine. He will be missed. -
first ascent New Slesse E Face route (not by me)
JasonG replied to Rad's topic in British Columbia/Canada
I think most of us are just afraid to look into the face of pure Badassery. It's hard to wrap my mind around it, that's for sure. -
[TR] Bonanza Peak - Mary Green Glacier 9/16/2017
JasonG replied to bellows's topic in North Cascades
Good to know that glacial recession has worked in our favor for once. Do you think that huge moat has no chance of being a problem in late season, or it was a lucky coincidence that it was bridged? I've noticed that the glaciers have changed enough in the last 20 years that it is hard to gauge when a configuration on a particular route is stable or not. Seems to vary significantly within a few years. And glad you had a great trip, that is a favorite route of mine! -
[TR] American Border Peak - ABP - SE Route 9/16/2017
JasonG replied to geosean's topic in North Cascades
Snaffles are busy packing off bits of your new webbing right now. In time, you'll find that quantity means quality in the North Cascades (and less weight in your pack). In seriousness though, glad you got up and down safe! That is a climb that is a bit more serious than the rating would suggest, esp. if there is fresh snow and ice on the final steep parts. -
[TR] Early Morning Spire - SW Face 9/12/2017
JasonG replied to NCNP Rangers's topic in North Cascades
Awesome, love that route! Thanks for the descent beta. We went over Marble Needle, which was also OK.
