thedylan

I love it! Go Jeff and Priti!

Hard to tell on the N face we never got a good view from the ridge.

It was really fun thanks for writing it up! And thanks @Kyle M for posting the observation, this is a cool and useful concept for WA ice climbing: https://cascade-ice.com/observations/51

@geosean, @MGraw and I ended up doing this over the weekend. Only mandatory rock was the gully between the lower and upper snowfields and that was a scree scramble, we didn't use the rock gear we brought until SE ridge of summit pyramid. The slope angles on the face were not as steep as expected and we did little frontpointing even though there was a lot of ice. We descended the fisher chimneys. Overall it was a really fun and beautiful way to tour the mountain. Something that has been overlooked in previous north face reports: the old growth forest on the approach, between white salmon creek and the ridge top, was seriously amazing! Many old growth western hemlock--western hemlock is the climax species west of the crest which means that's a really old forest. Above that we reached beautiful fall-colored blueberry fields and heard many elk bugles. AND I just remembered, Mike and Sean saw a wolverine! Incredible place.

Thanks for the TR you inspired me to check it out, had a really fun day yesterday. Saw no one until Forbidden. I skipped the west ridge though, was kinda bummed but my fitness isn't quite there this year :). Interesting how the snow melts, at the notch with the rappel to the north side I did one rappel angling skier's right, a long easy moat scramble, then another rappel to a moat where I had one steep step to climb out and onto lower angle snow. Was surprisingly straightforward I was definitely expecting worse.

Just commenting so I can find my trips again in the future.

Just commenting so I can find my trips again in the future.

Just commenting so I can find my trips again in the future.

Just commenting so I can find my trips again in the future.

Just commenting so I can find my trips again in the future.

I had a great time "cascadian hilarity" describes it well. @zaworotiuk here's you guys coming up the snow arete in the morning! Might have to zoom in.

Awesome! What a special place.

Nice!

Just that log you see in Sean's last photo which someone tied to the big concrete block. Gets you most of the way but still took our shoes off on the way in.

I think? Doable but attention getting. Would have been worse if the blocks were made of gneiss like they usually are :-D. Moving onto the slabby north side of the arete down lower may have been the thing to do, seems to be where the solid rock is in this section of the range. Update: noticed this in another TR. I think we tackled the referenced bulge head-on.