JasonG

Late July is not prime volcano time in the PNW, at least not anymore (probably was in the 60's and 70's). The North Cascades, on the other hand.....

Sounds like getting on the route wasn't an issue? We had a really broken and spooky section of glacier to negotiate. Regardless you guys made good time, that's fast.

Here's the work around: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1149152/Trip_Report_Issue#Post1149152 Would be great if you could move the content here as well, that's a fantastic climb!

Thanks, just got back last night and the work on the Chilliwack Lake road is done. Depot creek road is driveable to the regular parking area with 4WD HC (and lack of concern for your paint), we parked only about a couple km up the road before the steep bit. Kevork in the NPS ranger rig rallied to the wide spot just before the spur takes off up the hill. The spur badly eroded in the past couple years and is unrecognizable as a road spur any longer. Turn left at the cairn and stay on the left side of the gut.

They'll have that fully explored by the end of the week in Cleveland, don't worry.

Don't forget under the sea! A lot to discover and map down there. Well, maybe not. I suppose the Navy already has a good idea, but they aren't going to share what they know.

I think I would keep permit-less access on the down low. WeyCo doesn't seem to be enforcing it up around the Twin Sisters, but no need to poke a sleeping bear. I've heard the local land manager isn't keen on enforcing this with climbers, so the less we bother them with calls to reconsider, the better. This is a corporate decision across their ownership and is unlikely to change. They own the land and there isn't anything we can do about it, other than quietly continue using the land like we always have! If we were in the UK we would have the "right to roam" across private land, but not here. That's what is making America Great (Again)!

Wondering about the status of the road, heard that it was in pretty bad shape last year.

Having walked that approach a few times, including once in the rain/mist, you are most certainly a glutton for punishment. Heading upwards thru the wet brush (and the attendant soaked boots and clothing) dissuades most folks. West Mac is a worthy objective though (so is Inspiration!), so I'm sure you will be back.

Thanks for the reminder that I need to get out of the state and see more of what this great country offers!

Mountain Forecast is garbage. Go with the UW.

There goes the neighborhood. In all seriousness though, the NR of Blum is indeed a good climb. It's a grunt though.

Thanks Jeffrey, glad you like the photos! I don't use anything special, mostly a Canon Rebel T1i or sometimes a Canon S120 P&S. The real key is to shoot RAW and post-process in Lightroom to make them pop. The eye is much more discerning that the crappy sensors on my cameras and the photos need a little work to match what ones eye renders. The new Sony sensors (in high end Nikons as well) are much better (more than twice the dynamic range!) and hopefully I can upgrade in the next couple years.

Just remember that partly sunny means mostly cloudy in the mtns. That and "upper level low, weatherman's woe"

You'll be fine, is my pure speculation. The wedder, on the other hand....

I've lost several friends on 4th class terrain. It's not to be taken lightly. I'd stick with 3rd class and snow travel until you've gained a good deal of experience (a least a season or two). A long apprenticeship will serve you well in the hills. Some good scrambles: Cashmere, Black, Sperry, Vesper, Crater, Tomyhoi, Cadet, Del Campo, Gothic, Snoqualmie, HiBox, Gunn, Baring, etc. Lots to keep you busy as you work up to technical climbing in the Alpine.

Waddington has been on my list for years, but ...... it sounds like the glacier travel is getting bad, even early in the season. And that summmit, yikes. I may still have to go in there though, if only to give it a shot. Would love to see your photos!

Interesting, thanks for that. Also, forgot about this generalized site for Canadian mountain weather: http://www.avalanche.ca/weather Still the online Wx resources in Canada are quite limited compared to what we are used to stateside. The UW website in particular for PNW weather. Thanks Dr. Mass!

There is no good source for Canadian mountain forecasts. The locals in Canmore use Mountain Forecast, but I don't have any faith in the site based on my experience.

That's impressively turned around! Amazed that you were as quick as you were down that old burn.

More ideas for routes that are a step up w/steep snow or ice..... NF of Shuksan NF of Maude Adams Gl. Jeff Park Gl. NWFNR of Adams NR of Baker (probably work up to this one) Probably others I'm missing....

I love, love, love the new Petzl Summit II axe. So perfect for alpine routes around here. The other thing you can do is bring a capable single axe and a whippet (since you probably will have a ski pole anyways). If you need to front point with your tool in low dagger, the whippet provides a bit of additional purchase (unless it is actual ice). Sometimes on lower angle ice and neve an additional tool is more trouble than it is worth. Good footwork is the real key.

Now THAT is the way to climb Mount Blanc. That sounds really, really cool. Thanks!

I would post up the photos if I had them easily. I haven't gone back thru and scanned all my old slides, however. I was pretty late to the digital photo thing. You're right, I should read Al's Book of Lies. From what I gather, he and his brother are quite entertaining.

THE Al Burgess??!! BTW, about 13 years ago when I climbed it a huge serac collapsed the night before our climb (we heard it), filling a troublesome large crevasse that spanned most of the way across the glacier. It was easy travel for us, walking on top of the debris, but I can see how the route could be tricky- and could change quickly!