JasonG

Tim's last trip will be a top secret South Cascade destination next spring. I got to keep up the suspense. That's a good question, I'm of the opinion to always go to the true (highest) summit, but not sure what Tim is using. I just about turned around on the traverse, but Tim and Steve had made it and not fallen so I felt that I no longer had an excuse with all the snow brushed off the holds. The short chimney right after was challenging with snow and running water as well. We rapped it all on the descent.

They are an evil necessity around here in the fall shoulder season. I hate to say it, but snowshoes were the right choice that day.

Trip: Cowlitz Chimney- Tim gets his 99th Smoot - The Jeff Smoot Express Date: 10/28/2016 Trip Report: It's pretty grim out there peak baggers. Endless rain, high FLs, a parade of clouds, storms, and short days. It sort of makes the election tomorrow seem quaint. Sort of. Which means you all NEED a dose of some alpine summit glory to help fight the S.A.D. that is surely wracking your life about now. And there is no better cure for a S.A.D. existence than some photos from that hallowed Smoot tick- South Cowlitz Chimney (7605 feet; 15 miles, ~4500' RT). It just so happens that our ascent at the end of last month marked an especially auspicious occurrence... that's right all you Smooters, Tim ticked #99! That means he stands at the cusp of history! I mean, has anyone climbed all 100 in Jeff Smoot's opus, "Climbing Washington's Mountains"?? Will Tim be the very first? Tune in next spring to find out..... Gear Notes: This time of year.....sigh....snowshoes, helmet, crampons, ice axe, 40m rope, very light rack, Beckey description (Smoot punted). We were happy to have the rope to rap three tricky steps on the way down. Don't believe Beckey or Smoot, it is most certainly not 3rd class, even when on route. Approach Notes: Wonderland Trail to Panhandle Gap, cross country to route.

There will be a parade of storms between now and then so you'll need to make that call based on the telemetry. As you've probably gathered, it ain't the summer no more. NWAC's certificate isn't secure so you need to go in and give it permission to display in your browser. It is telemetry data for the Baker ski area which isn't super close geographically, but close enough for this time of year. The chances of fall ascents working out on Eldo aren't super high if you are locked into a date, but you can always try and see how far you get.

It's wet. I think the warmth of late will have settled things out. But I would suspect very deep wallowing in the last 1K as the rain drains from the snowpack today. It rained like crazy up there yesterday, that's for sure. Subtract about 10F off of this plot (to correct for Eldo's higher altitude) and you get the idea: https://www.nwac.us/weatherdata/mtbakerskiarea/graph/

So you weren't on it when it skidded off the runway??

Whoah. You said your plane partially crash landed? Do tell. You're right, that is most definitely worth the read. Strong work!

That's not bad (for America). Many people who work for an employer pay more than that (lower deductible, however). And you should blame your ancestors.... though I'm not so sure things are rosy in the Eurozone these days.

"You're gonna die We're all gonna die Could be twenty years Could be tonight"

He's become quite the climber! I had to laugh at his tick list that didn't include anything below 5.13c. That's just ridiculous.

That's a crazy number of people up there for those conditions! I don't think I've ever seen anyone on the mountain in the four times I've been on it. I was kicking myself Saturday....should have gotten out. Glad someone did!

Yeah Sol! That's really impressive and a great tribute to a fallen friend. Although you're really making it tough for those of us that use young kids as an excuse to not get after it!

Thanks guys, glad you like the photos. I'm probably not that close to a coffee table book, but appreciate the sentiment. No way that I'm going to compete with the likes of Abegg, Scurlock, and Hummel, but I can always keep trying. First though, I need to convince the finance minister that I NEED some top quality glass and a full frame sensor!

I'm starting to feel a bit inadequate, as I've not had this mysterious calf squeezing issue. Bronco, are my calves as small as I fear?

Impressive, especially with the family in tow! The Matterhorn has long been on my list, but a Swiss guide I met in the Bugs said to not even bother with the Hornli and head to Lion's Ridge on the Italian side. Thoughts?

I love the history John, thanks so much! While Fred's books are great, it's details like this that really drive home to me the rich climbing history of the Cascades. Fascinating.

Just took the family there this Saturday...awesome work Brandon (and Jarek)!! So glad to finally have a facility like this in the Skag.

Mike, I don't think there is going to be any shortcut via us armchair skiers (I think that is what Pete was getting at ). You're going to have to try them all on and see what works best. AT boots are so expensive that you really need to make sure the fit is the best possible of the options out there. That, and you may need a boot fitter to punch out the shells after you purchase to dial it in even further. Starting off at a top notch ski shop will certainly help speed the process. Good luck and welcome back!!

Latest ENSO Discussion points back towards a weak La Nina....

Patagonia still makes them Or, maybe you want this style?

. I think if you are going to paste into a TR, you may as well email Porter the TR and have him do it directly, then add photos. But thanks for persevering! Excellent effort in subalpinism, looks like there is a lot of rock up there for future parties to explore.

I always love, love, love the tales from your international adventures. This one is no different! It seems like the skies were rarely clear for you in China, was that mostly due to the humidity, pollution, or just general cloudiness? Some nice clear air would really make those landscapes pop.

Cool, I'd forgotten about that one. Thanks for the reminder to put it back on the list!

Thanks guys, glad you liked the report and photos! I couldn't resist on that Poison video.... It is often a pain to lug my SLR around, but I'm happy that I do when I get home and start working up the pictures. If others are excited to see the end result, even better! OK, now to answer some questions. Bronco- Kit was pretty nervous in the burn (and thus, Scott and I) since he know better than most the danger that those charred snags pose. Lunger- I'd say about 5-6 hours moving at a steady but casual pace. It's probably another 1-2 hours over to the base of the south Face of Fallen Angel from our camp. You could add on how much time from the south face to the base of the Grim Reaper. And you guessed right on the picture. Slesse left of center and Triumph right (with your FA facing the camera!). Triumph looks a little odd since Despair is peaking out around the sides. And, as promised, a couple close-ups of the Hunich Pipe (and Pipe Cleaner):

Steph has tied in with the Dogs on occasion but I wouldn't want to give the impression that she is in any way closely linked to our