-
Posts
4993 -
Joined
-
Days Won
265
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Everything posted by JasonG
-
Sounds like you may want to try an un-insulated boot? The Cubes are touted as being "warm".
-
[TR] Goode Mountain - NE Buttress 8/12/2016
JasonG replied to Todd Anderson's topic in North Cascades
Yep, that's where the climber's path was pre-fire. -
[TR] Mount Sir Donald - NW Ridge 8/20/2016
JasonG replied to HHinkkala's topic in British Columbia/Canada
Seriously though, thanks for the descent and timing beta- great advice that I will take to heart when I make it up to give the route another go. Years ago we were turned back in late Sept. by verglas. It is perhaps the most stunning line for its grade I've ever seen. -
[TR] Mount Sir Donald - NW Ridge 8/20/2016
JasonG replied to HHinkkala's topic in British Columbia/Canada
Shhhhhhhhhhh..... -
There are always party size restrictions in wilderness areas (Snowking, Cyclone, Found, etc. are all in the Glacier Peak Wilderness): GENERAL WILDERNESS REGULATIONS Maximum party-size is 12 in a group. A group is any combination of people and pack and saddle animals. Dogs are not counted as part of the group size limit.
-
Training for the New Alpinism first full cycle
JasonG replied to bedellympian's topic in Fitness and Nutrition Forum
Interesting, but I hope you fill us in on the climbing results in some TRs! -
[TR] Valhallas - Gimli, Asgard, Niselheim - 8/11/2016
JasonG replied to ilias's topic in British Columbia/Canada
I really need to get in there, thanks! -
Wow, that is a monster of a three day trip! It was pretty hot, but at least you got stung a few times. The bear sighting is interesting, we saw a dead deer right below the col leading to the Dome Glacier back in 2003. Looked to have died of exposure and wasn't eaten. I guess it is an animal trail thru the col? Crazy.
-
first ascent [TR] Hozomeen Mtn, South Pk - North Face, IV+ 5.9
JasonG replied to lunger's topic in North Cascades
I seriously didn't think this face would ever be climbed after seeing it from the notch on the SW route. Just looking at it scared me, since I didn't find the SW route was all that easy and it was 1/10th as steep. You guys really pulled off an impressive ascent. More importantly, I'm glad you survived! -
I don't know of anywhere where group size limits are less than 12 persons/stock (am I wrong here?). Getting a weekend permit for BB or the Enchantments on the other hand.....
-
[TR] Boston Peak - East Face via Quien Sabe 7/30/2016
JasonG replied to JasonG's topic in North Cascades
Not quite Bronco, I just was waiting for you to give it the Gunn treatment. -
[TR] Boston Peak - East Face via Quien Sabe 7/30/2016
JasonG replied to JasonG's topic in North Cascades
It truly has been cleaned up a great deal by all the Bulger traffic of the past several decades. We did our share to further clean things up. It really isn't bad at all and is pretty solid if you are on route. The rap route, on the other hand, has a lot of portable holds (plus poor gear) and looks dangerous to climb (fine to descend). -
That approach is no joke, I still think it is the hardest in the range- at least to a "select" route. I love, love, love that last photo of you or your partner with the Sockeye. That, more than any other, says Bear Mountain to me. Thanks for the report, I have much respect for anyone who climbs any of the north face lines on Bear (we wimped out and climbed the easy summit ridge).
-
Trip: Boston Peak - East Face via Quien Sabe Date: 7/30/2016 Trip Report: Is Boston a "low grade heap of ore"? Quite possibly. Is it worth climbing? Most certainly, if only for the summit register and view. There aren't many peaks that can boast such a vista, especially ones that are comfortably climbed in a day from home (It took us around 11 hours CTC with breaks and time on the summit). And it really isn't as bad as its reputation- IF you are on route. I started up the rap route and quickly realized why this was the scene of a fatality in the 1960's. Avoid. Instead, traverse farther north once off the glacier and find easy third and a short bit of fourth class that will take you to the exposed summit ridge. You're likely to have the spacious summit to yourselves as you peruse one of the best registers in the range. Three single raps will deposit you on the glacier and a bit of exposed, chossy, third class (which seems way easier on the way back) will take you to the Boston-Sahale Col, the Quien Sabe, and easy terrain back to the trail. We all remarked how nice of a day trip it was, especially since we saw the hordes jamming each other on Sahale all day while we had Boston to ourselves. A funny aside.... I saw Kevork getting onto the Quien Sabe about a week after I ran into him up in Depot Creek. He's everywhere! Gear Notes: 50-60m half rope, a few nuts/tri-cams, helmet, ice axe, Al crampons. Glacier gear. Approach Notes: Kevork says it is faster to do Boston via Cascade Pass, and I have to think he knows what he is talking about. Still, it wasn't a terribly long day RT from Boston Basin (which I had thought would be much quicker). BB trail is in fine shape. Stream crossings are a bit spicy on hot afternoons.
-
Mount Daniel Eldorado Ruth Mountain Mount Hinman are some other alpine feeling ideas
-
Love it! Looks like a great route to add to the list. These non-Cascade reports are great, keep 'em coming!
-
[TR] Depot Creek- Moxes, Custer and Rahm - Standards 7/23/2016
JasonG replied to JasonG's topic in North Cascades
Glad you guys like the photos! And yes, you can self issue the permit in Sedro if they are closed or get it in person during normal business hours. No need to go to Marblemount. Hard to say how the moat is now....could be OK or much worse. There was a large hollow area that was going to be a lot worse before it got better. Steve- I can't swing a long trip in Sept., unfortunately. Got to save leave for the mega family camping trip! -
[TR] Depot Creek- Moxes, Custer and Rahm - Standards 7/23/2016
JasonG replied to JasonG's topic in North Cascades
Good question Oly, I think Klenke will allow a brief response. Custer- South ridge, 3rd/4th Rahm- SW route, 3rd/4th NW Twin Spire (AKA Easy Mox)- North Ridge, low-mid fifth SE Twin Spire (AKA Hard Mox)- SW route, mid-fifth -
[TR] Twin Sisters Range - Hayden & Peak 6136' 8/10/2016
JasonG replied to dberdinka's topic in North Cascades
Awesome Darin, thanks for continuing to lead the way and share the beta for the rest of us to draft off of. Much appreciated! -
[TR] Depot Creek- Moxes, Custer and Rahm - Standards 7/23/2016
JasonG replied to JasonG's topic in North Cascades
You know it! Spooky, thankfully Steve was up to the task while I yelled encouragement. Porter is going to help me so hopefully you can see some pics in the next few days. -
[TR] Depot Creek- Moxes, Custer and Rahm - Standards 7/23/2016
JasonG replied to JasonG's topic in North Cascades
Never mind -
Well, the original plan was to go into the Northern Pickets for a week, but then the weather turned and our crack team of five armchair alpinists began to unravel. Then, three of us were going to head to the Winds, but we lost the third. Then, two of us were going to head to the Tetons, but our truck broke down on the way to Snoqualmie Pass and we didn't have another road worthy rig between us. Then, the two of us were going to head into Cathedral (in my beater 1991 Civic), but the weather window got too small. And so, we found ourselves in Depot Creek (carried there by my beater Civic), going after some obscure peaks on an obscure list, best not discussed in polite conversation. Lest I anger Klenke, tyrannical king of beta, this report will be short on details but long on pictures. Some of the things that stuck out to me on our trip: • As on most Cascade outings, we had the best weather on days we hiked in and out. • The approach up Depot Creek is getting more difficult with time/lack of maintenance. • Scrambling fourth class terrain in the rain and static electricity can be surprisingly exciting. • Custer really may be the most solid peak in the Cascades • "Hard" Mox may feel a lot harder than you think it should feel.... especially if you are in a cloud • "Easy" Mox doesn't seem so easy in the face of glacial recession • Anyone who has climbed Lemolo is tough as nails • Get a permit. NCNP rangers patrol up Depot Creek and Kevork may pay you a visit. (In our case this was welcome, Steve hadn't seen Kevork since the rescue on Terror in 2009 ) • You really should see the Depot Creek Falls once in your lifetime, or four times if your success rate is similar to mine. Approach: Drive up Depot Creek as far as you dare. We made it a mile with low clearance, but you could get another mile with 4WD HC. Gear: Helmet, 60m half rope, ice axe, Al crampons
-
I love the WA coast for kid backpacking. Lots to keep kids occupied and they're never bored. With two cars you could do a long stretch like Oil City to Third Beach: http://www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/toleak-point Or you could hike up to the meadows under Tomyhoi and climb to the high point under the summit. Or you could hike up to Spider Meadow and day trip up to Spider Gap (very busy with families). There are probably lots that I'm forgetting.