JasonG

Maybe I'm just lucky, but in 20 years of climbing I honestly haven't had one close call rappelling. Or it may be because early on in my climbing career I read ANAM obsessively and have always been scared of rapping. I also tend to follow the standard BMPs (mark rope middle, clip in, test before unclip, never simul-rap, etc.). It isn't hard to do it without incident, but you certainly don't often get second chances if your attention to detail flags. One thing I could be better about is backing up rappels. On long descents with good rock I will often forgo this, but I really shouldn't. Now close calls with objective hazard, on the other hand.....

What does Petzl know? Climbing on anything over 5 years old is just plain dangerous. Better send those suspect cams and 'biners to me for proper disposal.

skis

Indeed. You rarely are allowed a non-horrifying way to learn a rappel lesson.

There's tons of TRs in the database. Search Argonaut, click on the NE couloir ones. I have one in there from 2007.

Most importantly, DAN IS BACK!

Boom! Most are probably aware of this article by now, but I got a good laugh out of this thread being mentioned in it!

Don't be ashamed of laying to waste slide alder, or any veg up the Mtn. Loop for that matter. It has probably already grown back. Thanks for the work!

Why not something like the Nano-air hoody to replace the softshell? Much lighter and more breathable.

This made my day.

Dan, I want a picture of you with the jacket and scarf! I've never been to Denali, but imagine that you are going to have a hard shell anyways? If so, I think that your typical softshell isn't going to be a good layer to lug. Like Dan points out, lots of other layers out there that are more versatile and lighter and will compliment the hard shell better. And a merino wool scarf. Don't forget that!

Damn. That is a fine route, but the exit looks even spicier than normal this year! I once fell un-roped into the 'schrund, but that might not be a big concern this snowy spring.

Thanks for pointing that out Darin....that is the best part! Were you along on Fallen Angel Mutz?

As you've probably gathered by now, the springs of 2015 and 2016 were about as abnormal as you can get. This year is closer to reality, though a bit wetter than normal. If I ever have friends visit from out of the area for Alpine climbing....last week of July/first week of August. Push it to early July for the volcanoes.

You'll be in good company Larry. Ran into many ex-pat Americans and Canadians living down there for the winter. Super cheap living on a fixed income, sun every day, etc., etc. I could see spending at least Nov/Dec down there every winter. I still like skiing..... Take up kite boarding! Looks amazing and is one of the world's best spots to enjoy. I was jealous watching everyone.

Climbing vacations are overrated. Head to the beach!

Yeah, me too..... Hopefully it just means that Jon is really close to migrating to the new platform?

Alex speaks the truth. Also, I would check out Sunset Ridge. It should be in prime shape by then and will have technical challenge, no people, and be physically demanding. Same with Tahoma Glacier. I really like the feel of the west side routes, though I have never been successful over there! Given the long approach, you need a very solid forecast.

Los Barriles, Baja Sur. Fly into Cabo and rent a car, drive up and base out of Playa Norte for a couple weeks. Plenty of snorkeling,fishing, kiteboarding, and hiking within day range of the campground (which is right on the water and $10/night). Campground has well maintained bathroom/showers, laundry, WiFi. Walking distance to town. Good grocery nearby. I spent a couple weeks there with my family two winters ago (we drove from WA). I could have spent months.

Screw that. I want JPMorgan Chase to sponsor me.

Who knows a billionaire? I certainly don't. Seems that this wouldn't be an easy question to answer without some insight into the details of their rise to wealth. And by "most" do you mean >50%? 75%?

Whoah. So that's the guy the Darling couloir is named after? Obviously cut from the same cloth as Weissner and the Mundays. Skookum to the core.

My hats off to you guys!! That is a strong winter ascent. I've only climbed it in the summer, but can imagine how much tougher it would be in the winter. Thanks for the report!

For sure, I'll always take a beer! Let me know if you are up this way....I don't usually head down to Bend, though you never know. There are some great options out there, much better than the S120. If you want perhaps the best, try looking into the Sony RX100 IV or V. Yeah Tim, you would have loved it!

On this particular trip, a wee little Canon s120. It does shoot RAW though, which is key for pp in Lightroom. Glad you like the photos! I will always accept beer for licensed use of them