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Posts
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Everything posted by JasonG
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Wilderness First Responder vs Wilderness First Aid
JasonG replied to Bronco's topic in Climber's Board
Your partners probably would like you to take the WFR course. -
New Routes in the Pacific Northwest (nwmj.org)
JasonG replied to Lowell_Skoog's topic in Climber's Board
Thanks Lowell! This is a great service to the climbing community. We're fortunate to have your eye for detail and history keeping tabs on these ascents. -
For sure, COLD! You'll notice the ice in Kit's beard.... Yep, we left from the Heather Meadows lot. Scott, like Charlie Sheen, has one speed- GO! Glad you liked the photos!
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[TR] Middle Fork, Peak 3964 - False Idol, WI3+, 500m 1/6/2017
JasonG replied to kurthicks's topic in Alpine Lakes
Hey Kurt- did Dan tell you about False Idol after his ski descent? Nicely done, way to continue to develop the backyard in all seasons! -
If Gordo would've joined us, it just might have broken the internet!
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Trip: Mount Ann - The Path of Powder Date: 1/2/2017 Trip Report: I've noticed that there is a dearth of the fresh summit views on the site of late. That's to be expected, of course, given the season, but we do live in a remarkable neck of the woods with year-round peak-bagging opportunities. Take Mount Ann, for example. It is nothing much to look at in summer, not much more than a bump on the ridge south of the trail to Lake Ann and the Fisher Chimneys. In winter, however, it is transformed into a fine ski outing with great fall line descents and hard to match views of Mount Shuksan in its rime-encrusted splendor. The crowds of summer disappear and you have the powder, views, and valley to yourselves...... Gear Notes: The full backcountry ski kit. No need for whippet or axe. Approach Notes: skis, naturally
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[TR] Switzerland - Bluemlisalp Traverse 7/19/2016
JasonG replied to MRiley's topic in The rest of the US and International.
I guess the mods haven't gotten things fixed yet.....this is a known issue with cutting and pasting TRs into the site. Please PM Olyclimber to get it posted. Thanks for being patient, I really want to see your TR! -
question Best all around ropes on the market today?
JasonG replied to Jarred_Jackman's topic in The Gear Critic
My Mammut ropes always seem to be having the best time. And so punctual, you know those Swiss. Never have an unplanned bivy again! -
This is a great way to start my holiday weekend, thanks Bill.
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[TR] Yosemite National Park - The Nose in a Day 11/12/2016
JasonG replied to mutz's topic in California
Damn. So great that it's hard for me to comprehend! -
question Need some advice, drying clothing in sleeping bag
JasonG replied to DanO's topic in The Gear Critic
I want to see a TR from some of these adventures Dan. Sounds character building, to say the least. I'm too much of a weather weenie to offer any firsthand tips or techniques. -
People! Pay attention! Don't you know it is time to
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Tim's last trip will be a top secret South Cascade destination next spring. I got to keep up the suspense. That's a good question, I'm of the opinion to always go to the true (highest) summit, but not sure what Tim is using. I just about turned around on the traverse, but Tim and Steve had made it and not fallen so I felt that I no longer had an excuse with all the snow brushed off the holds. The short chimney right after was challenging with snow and running water as well. We rapped it all on the descent.
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Trip: Cowlitz Chimney- Tim gets his 99th Smoot - The Jeff Smoot Express Date: 10/28/2016 Trip Report: It's pretty grim out there peak baggers. Endless rain, high FLs, a parade of clouds, storms, and short days. It sort of makes the election tomorrow seem quaint. Sort of. Which means you all NEED a dose of some alpine summit glory to help fight the S.A.D. that is surely wracking your life about now. And there is no better cure for a S.A.D. existence than some photos from that hallowed Smoot tick- South Cowlitz Chimney (7605 feet; 15 miles, ~4500' RT). It just so happens that our ascent at the end of last month marked an especially auspicious occurrence... that's right all you Smooters, Tim ticked #99! That means he stands at the cusp of history! I mean, has anyone climbed all 100 in Jeff Smoot's opus, "Climbing Washington's Mountains"?? Will Tim be the very first? Tune in next spring to find out..... Gear Notes: This time of year.....sigh....snowshoes, helmet, crampons, ice axe, 40m rope, very light rack, Beckey description (Smoot punted). We were happy to have the rope to rap three tricky steps on the way down. Don't believe Beckey or Smoot, it is most certainly not 3rd class, even when on route. Approach Notes: Wonderland Trail to Panhandle Gap, cross country to route.
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There will be a parade of storms between now and then so you'll need to make that call based on the telemetry. As you've probably gathered, it ain't the summer no more. NWAC's certificate isn't secure so you need to go in and give it permission to display in your browser. It is telemetry data for the Baker ski area which isn't super close geographically, but close enough for this time of year. The chances of fall ascents working out on Eldo aren't super high if you are locked into a date, but you can always try and see how far you get.
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It's wet. I think the warmth of late will have settled things out. But I would suspect very deep wallowing in the last 1K as the rain drains from the snowpack today. It rained like crazy up there yesterday, that's for sure. Subtract about 10F off of this plot (to correct for Eldo's higher altitude) and you get the idea: https://www.nwac.us/weatherdata/mtbakerskiarea/graph/
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That's not bad (for America). Many people who work for an employer pay more than that (lower deductible, however). And you should blame your ancestors.... though I'm not so sure things are rosy in the Eurozone these days.
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"You're gonna die We're all gonna die Could be twenty years Could be tonight"
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He's become quite the climber! I had to laugh at his tick list that didn't include anything below 5.13c. That's just ridiculous.
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That's a crazy number of people up there for those conditions! I don't think I've ever seen anyone on the mountain in the four times I've been on it. I was kicking myself Saturday....should have gotten out. Glad someone did!