JasonG

True, it is more just an unexpected sight, given the terrain. Not a lot of room up there as I remember. Would be interested to hear how the shoulder was injured.

That is what sticks in my head, though I can't remember where I read it. We wore rock shoes, since we had them, and I remember thinking I was glad for them. It is a steep 5.6 (photo below of us rapping the route)!

That IS pretty amazing. I never even considered that anyone would haul a tent all the way up that thing. Or halfway, in this case.

Nice guys! That is a pretty bold move to start the hike out from the Chopping Block at 4pm. It sounds like you were rewarded accordingly. Terror is a proud summit, glad you made it up and down safe. I remember a lot of loose rock perched everywhere! Next time, check out that 5.6 route on the Chopping Block- a classic!

Now THAT is pretty interesting. So many questions.

FREEEEEEEEEEEEDDDDDDDDDDOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM

I love every last bit of this adventure. Mainly because I wasn't there. Way to suffer and keep it together!

You're gonna love Custer! Bonanza is a cool summit, glad it was a good time for you guys.

Did you call NPS Marblemount?

You're still not gonna get a permit to Boston Basin this weekend. :kisss:

Kelly retired last year, and they've upgraded to Glocks (or Sigs, can't remember). Times/people change and the crowds only increase, leading to much of what we are discussing.

Nowhere, AFAIK. The map is the map is the map. I've never, ever had a ranger try to pull that one (modifying XC zones on the fly). It sounds like they were definitely in error, or at least outside of normal protocols (the weasel clause, notwithstanding).

Ouch. That's unfortunate. It's been a bit since I had a really bad ranger encounter so I was hoping things were improving. I get that some rangers get sick of dealing with tourists all day, but if you can't treat each person independently (and listen carefully!) you best find a different job. It certainly isn't helping the NPS cause to behave that way. Is it really that hard to share in the excitement of those that are seeking a permit, rather than looking for a way to shut them down? As much as I'm sure it is hard for the NCNP ranger corps to hear this, I'm glad they are checking the site.

Well, I think part of the issue is that the actual climbing rangers don't normally work the front desk (as it should be), so often you are getting permits from people that are unfamiliar with the ground that climbers travel. I don't think it is always rangers assuming we are out to wreak havoc, but certainly that is sometimes the case. Regardless, it is frustrating to have an exchange that was described above, esp. after waiting in line. Agreed on the need to assume the best and depend on enforcement to catch nefarious activity. In talking with Kelly and Kevork over the years, a big problem is that there is a lot of turnover in the seasonal ranger corps. But I think that the NPS could do a much better job of using their database to figure out if the person standing in front of them is a newbie or not. Many of us know the ground much better than them (and have been getting permits for decades)! It's been the backyard for my entire life, and I love the park just as much as anyone (how the permit system is implemented, not so much). Sorry for the drift!

Ha! And the NPS wonders why some of us do not support the expansion of NCNP.

Thanks for keeping the old-school spirit of cc.com alive Dru!

It's a classic for sure. Did they re-draw the permit map around Forbidden? It is right there under the glass, so I have a hard time understanding how you can't just point to where you are going to be camping for the night and have the map answer the question of what zone you need.

It's crazier to think how old you are Darin!

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1155246/Slesse_Conditions_2017#Post1155246

Yeah Jason and Morgan!! That looks like a grand adventure and an impressive route. Agreed on being nervous with all the hardcore climbers that walked past it.

Yeah Wayne! I can't comment on the burly Big K adventure, but for sure love that you enjoyed the Liberty Traverse. It is so cool (a classic even), and infinitely scaleable for energy and ambition. The bivy option is a nice touch. And, I feel very honored to have you link my TR on your blog!

If the snow is soft, hands and feet have a lot more surface area than a ski pole. Or are you mostly talking about controlling speed while glissading? I guess I'm struggling seeing why in softer snow you need to use a pole to arrest. And if it is harder, the whippet is a good alternative to an axe if you are skiing.

This has been on my list for a long time! Solid work, well done! Any reason you choose to go N-S? I thought the other direction would be better, though I'm not sure why.

Never thought of using my pole to arrest, interesting! If I ever slip with my pole out and no axe I've always just tossed the pole and used my hands and feet (which also works quite well). If it is too hard to arrest with hands and feet, it is time for the axe IMO. The toughest poles out there are BD Whippets, but they probably would break too if you tried to arrest with the lower section jammed into the snow. And then there is that whole pesky pick to deal with....

That is just plain crazy. I never would have imagined numbers like that up there. The couple of times I've been to Dome and Sinister it felt like one of the most lonely spots in all of the Cascades.