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dave schultz

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About dave schultz

  • Rank
    enthusiast
  • Birthday 11/11/1986

Converted

  • Occupation
    US Navy
  • Location
    Everett, WA
  1. Trip: Mt Rainier - Kautz - Tahoma Trip Date: 07/14/2018 Trip Report: Sean and I were debating the idea of Slesse, and last minute Friday opted to bail and go to Rainier. My brainchild was single push up Kautz and down Tahoma, then back to Paradise for a full-value tour. We started at 2am and summitted around 1pm. We were expecting to use our own rope to rappel, so the fixed rope was a pleasant surprise, though the rope has seen better days (it did hold me, at about 225lbs with all gear). I think we missed the 1st ice pitch? The pitch we did climb was casual and fun. I was exceptionally slow above 13k, I guess working at sea level makes it tough to move fast up there. We had a real discussion about down DC or down Tahoma, we opted for Tahoma. The Tahoma was really fun, and definitely still has lots of life left this season. We broke through no crevasses and only had one jump that was seriously questionable if it would go ... We exited the Lower Tahoma glacier around 7pm, and lost visible light on the lower elevations of the South Tahoma Glacier. We lost of a lot of time trying to get across this POS, we ended up crossing very low around 7800 feet. I had a GPS track of the traverse from Success to Paradise, so it was a matter of staying awake and following a track to get back. We thought about heading down to the road and trying to hitch a ride, but we were not entirely sure about where the trail was and thought that getting lost trying to find a trail might be more frustrating that the long way across back to Paradise. It was an awesome, full value trip on Rainier - a venue without equal. Combining everything into a single push really helped reinforce what is possible given enough food and water. Thanks Sean for being a great partner! Final stats: 21.6 miles 11,250 feet of vert 26.5 hrs c2c Gear Notes: Two Tools helpful, a hammer to pound pickets. Approach Notes: LONG WAY back to Paradise
  2. Partner Needed: 6-8 July

    I've got a long weekend and really looking to get out on some rock routes. I could also be convinced for Kautz or Emmons on Rainier, or Coleman Headwall on Baker. Ideas: WA Pass, Leavenworth, Cascade River Road, Squamish … prefer longer alpine up to 5.10, but would be stoked to just get out. If you're comfortable with a group of three, I'd also be happy to join … Thanks! Dave 239-two-three-three-2002
  3. Leavenworth July 4-8

    looking to get out this weekend also. give me a call 239-two-three-three-2002 Thanks! Dave
  4. Welcome to cc.com. Nice Job, early season the TFT is really fun. I love the picture of Moraine Lake with the wild North Cascades in tthe background. Did you see any evidence of a party completing it before you did?
  5. [TR] Mt Baker - North Ridge 06/02/2018

  6. Trip: Mt Baker - North Ridge Trip Date: 06/02/2018 Trip Report: I couldn't confirm any partners to climb today, so I rolled out of bed and thought a solo of Baker's North Ridge would fill the day nicely, and it would tick the route off my to-do list. I started around 0900, parking lot was not full, and a few parties had already started up - they all seemed to be going for Coleman Deming. I was secretly hoping I would be able to link into a group on the NR, but seemed out of the cards. Conditions were great, the cloud cover kept everything from nuking but the above-freezing temps kept everything pretty soft. There were a few older boot trails heading to the start of the route making it easy to find. I opted for the right side start of the main ice section, which was fully engaging grade 3 ice for a short stretch and then it eased back substantially. Above the main ice I ran into a very nice guided group who was working up the left side - great talking with you guys! The ski descent was great, excellent conditions and the snow was not ripped up or moguled out, should stay in great shape for at least several more weeks. On my way out it appeared that the flood-gates opened and there were people everywhere! Back to the car at 1635, for a 7:35 c2c time. Gear Notes: Didn't use much. Two technical tools were pretty helpful, anything less would have upped the pucker factor. Approach Notes: Heliotrope TH. The maintained trail is in good shape, minimal interference and it travels fast.
  7. Looks like a technical, higher elevation route is the best option this weekend ... Rainier: Ptarmigan Ridge, Nisqually Glacier / Ice Cliff, Sunset, something else? Baker: NR, Coleman Headwall, something else? other? anything on your list? Enchantments? skiing conditions don't look good, I'd prefer to travel on skis, but may not be worth it... I can start Friday afternoon / evening. Thanks! Dave 239-two-three-three-2002 daveschultz125(at)gmail(dot)com
  8. [TR] Mount Shuksan - Price Glacier 05/27/2018

    Awesome!! I love this route and part of the mountain, great creativity getting it at this time of year. since you had skis, did you consider skiing the Price? So much, much, much, much different than I found in early August 2014 on Price.
  9. Partner Needed: 26-28 May

    Bumpin' it. Wx lools awesome...
  10. Partner Needed: 26-28 May

    I've been unlucky timing the good weather this winter, but it looks like this weekend will be good and my go-to partners are busy or radio silent … I posted on TAY looking for a ski partner, but also looking for a technical climbing partner as well. Rainier, Baker, NCNP, Enchantments, up for anything - perhaps an Enchantment traverse? (Haireball knows what I'm talking about...) I'd prefer to continue to travel on skis, but willing to boot for some downright fun alpine climbing in the shoulder season, let's bounce some ideas and figure it out! Thanks! Dave 239-two-three-three-2002 daveschultz125(at)gmail(dot)com
  11. for sale FS: Closet Cleanout - Lots of random gear

    bump. added: 13cm x 3, 16cm x 6, 19cm x 4, 22cm x 1 BD ice screws. looking for $35 each. will include how-to for sharpening ... thanks, dave
  12. for sale FS: Closet Cleanout - Lots of random gear

    Bump for the new year!
  13. Where to go this weekend?!

    not if you drink the new DPS Kool-Aid ...
  14. [TR] Chair Peak - North Face 12/16/2017

    I'm a little perplexed by the slab you triggered. How far from the crown to the stauchwall? what was the bed surface? did you evaluate the descent and snowfield before committing to the climb? did you look at the details for the snow after you triggered the slide? I don't remember reading anything on NWAC about skier or climber triggered, only control triggered slides. I have not been out into that terrain yet this season, and am thus very interested in anything you might have seen. Two reports of climbers not mixing well with fresh snow while descending from Chair ... maybe not the best place to go in those conditions. You got pretty lucky. http://media.nwac.us.s3.amazonaws.com/media/filer_public/9a/37/9a3701a9-c36c-43e6-a974-7631d934a554/chair_peak_accident_1_4_14.pdf http://media.nwac.us.s3.amazonaws.com/media/filer_public/33/73/33735d46-4a66-4e49-b9dd-88124d8157c2/chair_peak_15_jan_2013_report.pdf EDIT: I just re-read the 16 Dec Snoqualmie Pass TR on TAY and they had a 15cm deep 18m wide wind slab propagate and release - smaller than yours, and not as unusual to trigger while skiing. Your report makes it sound like the snow was very touchy ... Dave
  15. recent inversion pics

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