JasonG

Normal snow year, but the warmest spring (and fastest melt out at SnoTel sites) on record. Better luck next time!

Thanks Off, I'll have to add that route to my list, and I like your strategy.

Don't follow the cairns! Yes, after crossing the one branch of the creek coming from Stuart Lake shortly after leaving the main trail, you pretty much stay near the other fork of Mountaineers creek the whole way from the main trail. Stay on the west side of the creek, but within sight of it.

You guys are tearing it up! TFT and CNR on back to back weekends. Plus, you guys did the deproach the hard way. Nice effort! FYI, the glacier in your photo (and presumably the one you mention calving?) is the Ice Cliff Glacier. The Sherpa is one cirque to the east from there and isn't nearly as crazy looking.

Ragged Edge? True Grit? Mile High Club? Those may be pushing it a bit depending on how much rushing you want to do. You could also do the first part of Infinite Bliss on Garfield. ....maybe Silent running or Total Soul on 3 O'clock Rock in D-town. Or you could just go hiking and eat lots of chocolate and drink wine. And cheese, don't forget the cheese.

John is as solid as they come, and he's got a lot of stories. You should join him!

I'll say. That looks like quite the adventure, thanks for posting it! I especially liked all the useful detail and stunning night exposures, much appreciated!

As Max said, perfectly safe but probably less than ideal due to the size, fuzziness, and propensity to absorb water. It won't snap though, that's for sure. I have a friend that uses an old climbing rope to tow cars out of snowbanks all winter long. It sure looks like it is going to break when he steps on the gas, but it just stretches and stretches. Modern ropes are pretty amazing.

Work around failing for you as well?

Nice work! I'm glad the hats made it the whole way, it was fun to see you guys starting up the trail. Did you have to rap off a bollard to clear the 'schrund on the north side of Torment?

Thanks Don, I'm glad to hear the details of the response to the accident.

Just to be clear, ALL PLBs use the military satellite system. SPOT and InReach aren't classified as PLBs, because they use a private satellite system. To use the military system, all true PLBs go thru rigorous testing. I think anything by the two main companies (McMurdo or ACR) would be just fine.

I'll say. That pocket glacier is spooky.

You would know if you have had giardia, it is not temporary and only goes away with some heavy duty pharmaceuticals. It really is nasty. Both times have been memorable in different ways.

Sweet, I think Logan has one of the best views in the range. Glad you had good conditions and views since that is a long way to go to get shut down! I have to say you're certainly knocking them off this year.

Giardia farts really are the worst of the worst. I wish I didn't know this, but I've been reminded twice in the last 10 years or so, including last summer.

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1149152/Trip_Report_Issue#Post1149152

The ACR ResQLink is another well regarded PLB. Plus with PLBs there is no subscription fee like with the SPOT or InReach.

Some discussion a short time ago: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1136049/PLB_PSA_plug There are older threads out there too that I haven't had time to dig up. Rad did an excellent review here (though a bit dated now): http://www.alpenglow.org/nwmj/10/101_Rescue.html I have a McMurdo FastFind PLB and I'm pretty biased that a PLB is the way to go over SPOT or InReach. There have been some high profile failures with the latter during emergencies since they don't use the military satellite system. The maritime industry, aviation, and the military-industrial complex all use the same network as the PLB. I don't care about two way communication when I'm in the hills, though. When I push the button I want assurance that a rescue is being initiated ASAP above all else.

Thanks Doug, that's a fine climb that I'm glad you got to experience. One of the very best that the North Cascades has to offer. David was quite the man, and is sorely missed: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1068512/1

Hi Lisa, thanks for continuing to post updates from your trip! Sorry that the site is giving you issues, could this be the problem?: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1149152/Trip_Report_Issue#Post1149152

Damn, Damn, Damn.

East Fury in a day? That is just plain nuts. In an impressively good way, of course. We were marveling at your Depot Creek trip this past weekend when we were up there. Hard to comprehend the speed with which you move through the North Cascades bush!

Bingo.

You and your wife get killed by rockfall. August is not the time to be heading for the summit of Hood if you're a parent. Sorry to be blunt, but pick something else.