Jump to content

bonathanjarrett

Members
  • Content count

    197
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About bonathanjarrett

  • Rank
    member
  • Birthday 11/30/1999
  1. Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col Conditions

    Just got back yesterday. Parties were going up and rapping down multiple times a day. One man got evac-ed because of a rock hitting his leg on the way down. That said, it seemed like rockfall was almost exclusively climber generated. Folks were generally being very cautious, considerate, and patient which was excellent.
  2. Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col Conditions

    Thanks!
  3. Can any of you fine folks give me a current report for the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col? Thanks, Jonathan
  4. 3 routes in 6 days in the Enchantments

    I sent you a message as well. Best, Jonathan
  5. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    I teach a composition course to high school freshmen, and, as an assignment, they write an argumentative essay addressing the following prompt: Is is possible for climbers/mountaineers to make climbing a safer activity. Almost none of them have any direct experience with climbing. Most know almost nothing about it all. I provide them with data from Accidents in North American Mountaineering, a selection from Lynn Hill's autobiography, an article about the OES tragedy on Hood, and a video where two of my climbing buddies discuss their own direct experiences. Almost every student comes to the following conclusion: the environment that climbing occurs in is inherently dangerous and that the qualities of the choices that climbers make directly influence the rate of accidents. It is reinforced to me trimester after trimester that the math is not that hard on this one. Even an outsider, thinking carefully about the data, can come to this assessment. One of the interesting points of data that they often marvel at is that exceeding abilities and climbing unroped are contributing causes at nearly identical rates. They also note that half of accidents are caused by falling. When they ask me about what I do, my response is fairly simple. Accept that I engage in a dangerous sport and yet always make careful, thoughtful choices about my practices and habits.
  6. Water Filtration: is it necessary?

    "The idea that most wilderness water sources are inherently unsafe is baseless dogma, unsupported by any epidemiological evidence." Slate article Do you agree or is the author missing some key details? Do you filter? Why or why not?
  7. Cooper Spur Shelter

    Thanks. That gives me a good starting point.
  8. Cooper Spur Shelter

    Hey all, Could someone point me in the direction of information about the origins of the stone shelter on Cooper Spur? I am interested in doing so research regarding why, how, and when it was constructed. Thanks Jonathan
  9. Illumination Rock

    The routes on the back side of I Rock are in great shape right now. They looked a little bony from below, but there was ice where you needed it, not too much snow, and fun mixed terrain.
  10. Snow/water on Slesse

    I was on it last weekend. There was lots of flowing water at/near the propeller cairn. There would be no problem getting water there. There was a chunk of snow at the large bivy ledge but no real running water. There were some sections of snow on the descent but no real substantial flowing water until you got past Crossover Pass proper. We carried three liters each on a cloudy/cool day and that was adequate. Good luck Jonathan
  11. Thanks for the report. It was helpful.
  12. Slesse-Crampons Necessary?

    Bump for any current knowledge of the situation. Many thanks.
  13. Slesse-Crampons Necessary?

    The intended descent is the Crossover Descent. I wouldn't have even considered it, but Steph Abegg's trip report from July suggests that they were helpful, perhaps even necessary. As a result, I was hoping someone could provide some more current information. Thanks
  14. Slesse-Crampons Necessary?

    Inquiring minds would like to know whether it is necesssary/prudent to bring crampons/ice ax on the NE Buttress of Slesse right now. Thanks Jonathan
  15. My partner and I climbed Cooper Spur by traversing in across the Newton Glacier from Timerberline on Sunday. I don't know why more people don't do it this way. It was easy, scenic, and quick to access. Some details on how we did it. We crossed the Whiteriver Glacier at 8,800' and did a rising traverse up on to the spur below Wy'East at about 9,300' There was some minor rock fall here, but jogging across the 200' danger zone minimized the danger. From the spur, we made a nearly level traverse across the Newton Glacier at about 9,400'. There was minimal crevass danger, but we roped up for prudence's sake. At the north end of the glacier, we accessed the Cooper Spur beneath a minor rock buttress at about 9,600'. This spot gave us a place to unrope and take a short rest. From there we wound up and right on to the spur itself and then ascended to the summit without issue. In terms of timing, we left Timberline shortly before 4AM, made it across the Newton Glacier in three hours, and were on the summit shortly after 8AM. Granted we did not climb the whole Cooper Spur and avoided the lower, low-angled slopes. This was by far and away made up for by the fact that crossing the east flank is scenic and wild-feeling. Early season, before accessing Wy'East becomes dangerous from rock fall, this would be the preferred method for getting to Cooper Spur, in my opinion. The perception that it is on the other side of the mountain from Timberline is unwarranted. The spur actually has a NE orientation. The whole experience was improved by the fact that we were in the lee of the mountain the whole time; it was windless and almost warm in the sunshine.
×