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Everything posted by JasonG
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[TR] MT. HOOD - Devils Kitchen Headwall 03/10/2019
JasonG replied to kadyakerbob's topic in Oregon Cascades
I always think this when I'm wallowing waist deep in the hills. -
idea Cable bindings for Mountaineering Boots
JasonG replied to Spraylord_Boltey's topic in The Gear Critic
I'd forgotten about the Voile option...... and I've approached with plastic mountaineering boots with those exact bindings (I have a splitboard)! Still, unless you are climbing really hard stuff I think AT boots are better in all respects. -
idea Cable bindings for Mountaineering Boots
JasonG replied to Spraylord_Boltey's topic in The Gear Critic
Couldn't you just leave the heels free when descending on some 404s to give you that tele feel? (edit: Just saw that @montypiton said the same thing!) It isn't likely that anyone is going to produce a binding like what you are thinking of, given how well modern AT boots climb. -
[TR] Shuksan, Icy, Ruth - Nooksack Traverse 03/01/2019
JasonG replied to geosean's topic in North Cascades
Did you have to pound the pickets or axe to drive them (and they didn't pop through a crust and sink easily)? I think the consensus is that unless the answer is yes, they won't hold a fall. Also, top clip or mid-clip? Mid-clip is typically much stronger. Wondering if you concur based on your incident... Here is some technical reading on snow anchor strength if you haven't seen it: snow anchors Most importantly, I'm glad you're taking some time to figure out how to improve your systems (and posting here so that others can learn as well). It isn't often that we get second chances in the hills and I'm glad you've learned a few things without the pain/loss that often accompanies the education. -
Not unless you want to know how fun (not very) it is to approach the base of Colonial with skis on your back. We didn't really do anything besides look at some cool icicles. Very few turns, lots of post holing and deadfall.
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[TR] Shuksan, Icy, Ruth - Nooksack Traverse 03/01/2019
JasonG replied to geosean's topic in North Cascades
ummmmmmm....wow. For a near miss of total team death, you seem remarkably sanguine. And yes, curious as to how the pickets and axe were placed.... Well done at finishing it, and thanks for posting all the gory details. This has been on my list, but your TR gives me pause. -
And 20 will stay closed at the CG until they start clearing the highway, per WSDOT's Jeff Adamson. If you are unhappy with this decision he said to contact the Sedro Woolley Maintenance Facility (who did the cost/benefit analysis that resulted in this year's Colonial CG closure). It won't do any good this year to complain Jeff said, but it might factor in for next year's planning. Emphasis on might. Basically, I think, it was a polite way of telling me to buzz off.
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@bedellympian you raise some good points! Youth and motivation can overcome nearly anything. You may not want to listen to us old dudes @Michael Morningstar
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One of my all time favorite reports @Marcus Russi! The Cascades can deliver beat downs like few other ranges.
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Where's the tauntaun emoji when you need it? This is a proven technique in the cold alpine: In seriousness though, Gib ledges is a fantastic winter route. Good luck!
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Here you go @aikidjoe
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This is a good question and one without an easy answer because, well, it depends. Personally, I have two main ropes for the alpine- an 8.7mm 60m dry that is rated as a single, double and twin. It is great to have the lightest single rope for those long alpine approaches, and you really aren't going to fall anyways, right? I bring this rope for anything harder than mid-fifth where there will be lat least several full, harder pitches. Think full NR of Stuart. My other rope is a 7.8mm 60m dry rope rated as a double or twin. This is my main rope for rambly routes that have a lot of 4th and low 5th with a glacier approach. I often climb with it doubled, but sometimes stretch it out full length. I guess I do have a third rope for the alpine. A ratty 40m 7.7mm that I cut down to be a glacier/ski mountaineering rope. Then I have some fat cragging ropes.... So, I think you are on to the right track!
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Road gated at Colonial Creek CG as of a few days ago....contrary to their website. Grrrrrr.
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Thanks for the update!
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Ohhhhhh, right! I had forgotten about this. My wife had her Swallow turned into a 15F bag via this option. Thanks for sharing that.
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I've been using a FF Swallow for 20 years and have spent about a year of my life in it. I find that it is a little warm for high summer, but I just drape it over me like a quilt. Perfect for sleeping toasty in the spring and fall. I even use it in winter sometimes, with extra clothes. The Swallow pretty much does it all, and probably the reason it is FF's most popular bag.
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I've never found wool to last as long as synthetic. Nor have I found it to wick as well. But it certainly smells better!
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best of cc.com Pictures From the Wayback Machine
JasonG replied to EWolfe's topic in Climber's Board
These are all great photos, but I'm especially liking the B&Ws by @Off_White! I can't keep all these people and their nicknames straight though. -
Good idea. Would be fun to see a bunch of unusual tours posted up!
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[TR] Three Fingers Lookout - Meadow Mountain Trail 01/26/2019
JasonG replied to geosean's topic in North Cascades
So, so great! -
They did, but I wasn't completely convinced. Grouse is pretty direct, even if you have to walk a bit in the forest. I think the main deciding factor for my partners was a bit of thick, steep trees and brush near the bottom of the swath. Not much fun going up, but I think over pretty quick on the way down. Skiing everywhere was poor, so that wasn't much of a factor.
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I would be very surprised if they used their own instruments. They probably use data mostly available to the public, but a lot of times it isn't very user friendly (thus you pay them to translate/summarize). Also, I know some numerical models you have to pay to access.