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geosean

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geosean last won the day on February 27

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About geosean

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  • Birthday 06/13/1984

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  1. [TR] Mount Hunter - West Ridge 05/31/2022

    Wow, nice. I was supposed to do this in 2020, haven't planned a revenge trip yet. Awaiting a full TR. Thanks for the great beta photo.
  2. It was great getting out with you Jason. Thanks for all the awesome pics of me. Here are some cell phone snapshots of you.
  3. WOW, amazing. There is zero chance of me doing this route but I still really enjoyed reading the beta. Nice TR!
  4. Thats correct, the couloir would be an easy-ish 2 day trip with a camp at the lake with no technical gear required (assuming you could boot the couloir). Our original plan was to exit a la the Forbidden Tour, but the couloir was pretty bootable. As for Torment Basin, we figured with the snow up high it would be easier to take the Eldo trail and do an easy traverse at ~6k to access Torment Col.
  5. Oh yeah, beta photos for the Forbidden Tour. The Forbidden glacier looked good down the gut: The exit was looking a bit thin already, but very doable:
  6. Trip: Mount Torment - Moraine Lake Couloir, NW Glacier Trip Date: 04/16/2022 Trip Report: Me and the boys (@Albuquerque Fred, @thedylan, @MGraw) had a great time in the sun for the chilly weekend of April 16-17 on Mount Torment. We skied the Moraine Lake Couloir and most of the NW Glacier on Mount Torment. We were able to drive to .5 miles past the gate at the park boundary on Cascade River Road before we hit snow. We booted for about a half mile past that, then skinned to the Eldorado Trailhead. We again booted to the boulderfield at 4k as per usual, then we skinned up, crossing the ridge into Torment Basin, and to Torment Col (west of Torment). The skiing down from there was good but I was too interested in what was to come to really think much about it. The plan was to climb Torment, then ski the couloir to Moraine Lake and camp. When we got to the entrance to the couloir though the exit onto the glacier looked tough. Dylan gamely started to lead with only pickets for pro, 1 aluminum axe, and aluminum crampons, plus skis and overnight gear on his back. Just out of the belay we realized we would never have time to climb all this and make camp at a reasonable hour so Mike suggested a new plan , we would fix the line and finish the route tomorrow. Dylan got the rope up, rapped, and we skied the AMAZING couloir down to the lake. As in most features like this, the snow being good wasn't the most important part. The setting, the purity of the line, the adventure was made it rock. But the skiing was also good. Making camp at like 4pm in April was full on cushy, plenty of time to build a monster wall around the tent, drink whisky, and lounge. The next morning we booted the couloir, climbed the fixed line, and ascended the NW Glacier on Torment. We had limited beta on this but Tom Sjolseth's report said "we skinned to within 50' of the summit", easy right. Well, not so much. We ran into another short rock step, which, though easy would involve another two transitions to get past. We figured it would be after 10pm by the time we got to the car, so we bailed at 7300'. The ski was epic. Top 5 ski runs ever for sure. We will be back for the summit. The crew: Thanks for the shot Mike: Dylan scouted the scary roll over: Dylan rapping after the lead: I'm sure Fred didn't just fall: Mike and Dylan working the lower couloir: The whole thing: Dylan slays it, even in camp: If you have to boot it might as well be into the sunshine: Mike following the fixed rope: Topping out: This sucked: We should have lapped this one. Classic Cascdes: Gear Notes: 1 axe, crampons, glacier gear, avy gear, camping gear. not enough. Approach Notes: Eldo worked well, I've done Torment Basin and didn't want to do it with skis on my back.
  7. The blue lines are from the topo, all I added is the red line. Dotted usually represents seasonal, or ephemeral, streams and solid are perennial streams.
  8. [TR] Axis Peak - South Gully 02/19/2022

    Yeah, everything was sooo bony. The woods were dry along Icicle Creek.
  9. Trip: Slate Peak - Clean Slate Couloir Trip Date: 02/21/2022 Trip Report: @thedylan and Dave Duyee and I skied the Clean Slate Couloir off of the N ridge of the N Peak of Slate Peak. Dylan wanted it to be a climb also, but it was just a point on the ridge... I wanted a peak too Dylan, but it wasn't to be. We parked ... wait, first I called in sick... then we parked at the White Salmon Snow Park and skinned briefly up Anderson Creek Road. Dylan had graciously scouted the trip the day before and even put in some skin track. There was some of this: Ans this: And this: But finally there was this: And then even some of all this: The snow was amazing and the fresh went down to about 2500' where we entered the woods. Thanks to Dylan for scouting it! If you don't know this one, it looks something like this: Gear Notes: skis, booze Approach Notes: Short, but Cascadian.
  10. Trip: Axis Peak - South Gully Trip Date: 02/19/2022 Trip Report: @Albuquerque Fred and I were at it again. We really felt the need to climb Axis Peak this time, it just calls to you from every vantage... note the sarcasm. I was foolish enough to say "I'm up for anything". Fred thinks is cool to climb lists, I don't; but then I'm not opposed to it on principle either. So off we went on Friday night to TH bivy on Icicle Creek Road at the gated and snowed in 8-Mile road. Fortunately, Eminem was not present. We were up early but it was stupid warm in the morning (tomorrow would bring a fast moving cold front). We knew we had to get out early as a big storm was moving in and we didn't want to be in the mountains, plus we still had the drive back west over the pass. The road went easy but the Bellevue crowd had been slacking as the trail was super not packed out (I assume it is Instagram that causes the normal luge chute and not Leavenworth locals, correct me if I'm wrong, I don't travel here often). We skinned ice crust with occasional post holes and snowshoe crampon scratches to within 1/4 mile of Lake Stuart, then ascended the fan up the gully on the south side of Axis peak. I had a bad experience the previous weekend with ice crust skiing so I was adamant that skis were only for that approach today and we left them at the fan at around 5300'. It was super icy here with about half a dusting of snow from throughout the morning. The gully was a dream, perfect secure cramponing on moderate slopes with some dirt and moss to remind you that you're in the cascades. The gully actually served to focus the sun and block the wind as well so it was amazingly pleasant. The weather called for intense ridgecrest winds. We tagged the summit, signed in, and bailed down a couple hundred feet out of the gale to eat lunch. The descent was amazing, but firm enough the I was still glad we ditched the skis. I got to try out my new skis on frozen avy debris, and sun crust, plus dirty, thin forest on the way out, so that's a plus. We only skied down to 4660' then skinned again, all the way to the road. At least I did, Fred insisted on shuffling in walk mode with no skins despite it obviously being slower and sketchier. Oh well, at least I was proven right. Photos: Oh yeah, in case you are not aware, Axis Peak is the next ridge north of Stuart. Before you ask... North side of Dragontail. Approach skinning: Argonaut: Not the best coverage out there these days: Up the gully, it's better than it looks: There is no summit photo that doesn't look cheezy is there? Gear Notes: Axe, crampons, helmet, skis for the approach. Approach Notes: Road was easy, trail was terrible.
  11. That's sweet! We were talking about that while we're up there but I didn't think the coverage was good enough to ski.
  12. [TR] Forbidden Peak Winter Ascent - West Ridge 01/23/2022

    Wow, amazing. Thank you so much for sharing all the details! My heart was pounding while reading the ridge section!
  13. Trip: Mount Sefrit - NW Route - Wall Street Couloir Trip Date: 01/22/2022 Trip Report: I've been eyeing Sefrit for years, really looking to ski the NW route and the "Wall Street" couloir. I did the peak on my first try from the NE and the Bloody Head Couloir (colorful names on this peak), but I've failed more times than I care to remember due to various snow condition excuses. This time we had an outrageous skunking the weekend before which effectively served as a scouting trip. Me, @MGraw, and @thedylan skied in on the super frozen crusty road bed knowing the ski conditions would suck but that the cramponing in the couloir would be all the better for it (this was the plan). We eventually found the log after some awful wallowing in the barely covered brush and began cramponing up the avalanche debris on the couloir fan. I have tried most different types of conditions on this route and this is the only way I can see to make it work safely except for the very rare low snow dump with great stability. One is very vulnerable in the couloir with tons of hanging slabs over your head and 1000' couloir to feed into you. We made quick work to 5000' and last year's high point at the bottom of the upper basin. From here we skinned on crust with occasional thin powder patches all the way to the summit ridge at ~7000'. We took a look into the upper couloir on the NW flank of the summit pyramid, but we had set our hopes on fast and light, so didn't bring climbing gear. It looked too sketchy to try with no rope and only one axe apiece. Sadly this means we have to come back. We ditched the skis at 7000' on the ridge in the amazing warm sun after climbing in the shade all day. At this point it was already pretty late and we were worried (not Dylan). Then we hit a dead end on a tower on the summit ridge and had to backtrack. We climbed on the south side below the crest on mostly steep snow with a couple of rocky moves thrown in. I was worried we would run out of time with so minimal daylight. We persevered however and with Dylan leading some just barely solo-able moves on snowy rock and lots of step kicking we made the summit. I spent all of 30 seconds enjoying the efforts and accumulated knowledge of like 8 failed trips, then turned tail and headed down. The views are great, but the best was toward Shuksan's north side which we had been seeing all the way up from the ridge. Getting down to the skis was surprisingly easier than the way up. The snow was already re-freezing by about 3pm. We skied down, enjoying some of it anyway, booted the couloir, cramponed across the frosty log over Ruth Creek, then back to the skis for a super fast icy ski and skate down the road. 19 miles, about 5800' in 12.5 hours. I think this is the best way to get the route since it is super hard to find powder in a couloir at 3000' and stable conditions. Typical fun getting through the woods, sorry Mike: Ruth Creek: Fun conditions in the lower couloir, easy cramponing though: Upper basin skinning: Loving the alpine: Probably time to ditch the skis. Mike skied off this for his first turns of the year; nice work: Working up the ridge: Shuksan: Let's get out before dark. 10' off the summit: So worth it for the turns... I wanted to die. It never felt so good to take skis off and walk: Gear Notes: skis, helmet, axe, crampons, Bison Grass Vodka for the skate out. Approach Notes: ski from the highway
  14. Nice work! Thanks for the info.
  15. Mt challenger via whatcom peak?

    I did easy ridge both ways one year over Labor Day because the trail still hadn't been brushed out by trail crews. Many mile of brushy trail sounded lousy compared to alpine meadow walking. Also early season when there is still snow on the trail makes this a good choice. I have heard many people say the N ridge of Whatcom is sketchy, but mostly people with multi-day packs.
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