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geosean

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About geosean

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    journeyman
  • Birthday 06/13/1984

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    Bellingham
  1. Trip: Sherman Peak - Squak Glacier Trip Date: 01/14/2018 Trip Report: It's a little late for a conditions report but me Fred and Joel climbed Sherman Peak (the one on Baker) with skis/splitboard on 1-14-18. It took 15 hours with the 3+ miles of road skinning both directions. Conditions were actually really great except in the morning the sun/rain crust made for some hairy skinning until we got above around 6500'. Rain crust reflecting the sunrise: Skinning with ski crampons on, Joel decided to snowshoe the icy spots: We skinned more or less north up the ridge from the summer trailhead, using snow machine tracks where it helped with the trail breaking. Above tree line there was a solid crust, sometimes icy, but we never had to break trail again. By the time we were headed off the summit, about 2pm, everything had softened up nicely and even the wind affected areas were decent. We got back to the summer trailhead just about dusk for a blistering (literally) skin back to the truck. 6300 vertical feet of skiing total, plus some downhill skiing and some hiking. Sherman summit from the 9800' saddle at the crater rim: Looking back to the ski down on the way out: Gear Notes: skis, ski crampons, crampons, axe Approach Notes: 3.1 miles of road skinning from the sno-park closure. Good coverage from the TH to the summit.
  2. 2017/18 Oregon Washington ice

    Just posted a report on Millennium Wall near Leavenworth:
  3. Trip: Millennium Wall Ice - Leavenworth - Various TR Trip Date: 12/30/2017 Trip Report: Millennium Wall was in but wet on Saturday. We did a few top rope laps. There were some areas that were leadable with good hard ice under the slush. It was tough breaking trail basically the whole way through Cascade Concrete, so go do it soon and keep the boot pack clear! Gear Notes: Usual Approach Notes: Skis, snowshoes, boot pack, tried it all... nothing worked great.
  4. [TR] Mt Thompson - West Ridge 12/09/2017

    Nice, that looks awesome! Thanks for posting and fueling the imagination.
  5. [TR] Mt Shuksan - Sulphide Ski Tour

    BTW the new website makes writing trip reports waaaaaay easier! Loved it. Now everyone else write one! I don't believe that no one is out there climbing!!
  6. Me, Andy, Joel and Fred climbed Shuksan via the Sulphide Glacier route the weekend of the 9th-10th. We took skis (and a split board) to within a few hundred feet of the summit, carrying them for only the first 2 miles of trail walking. It was strange to travel up into such warmer weather with the inversion going on. It was winter at Baker Lake, the lower parts of the mountain were spring like, and the summit was wintry again. We camped at the normal glacier camp on Saturday after getting an alpine start of 10:45 am from the TH. With the winter darkness setting in I think we went to bed about 6 or 7 pm, it was sweet to sleep for so long. Up at 5, moving at 6 we skinned up wind crust and crud to maybe a third of the way up the summit pyramid before switching to crampons and axes. Fred led the booting all the way to the top through wind crust on top of pow on top of verglas. The summit was amazing, quiet, lonely, and calm! After a somewhat mediocre upper portion the bottom half of the Sulphide was pretty good skiing due to the sun having warmed the wind crud. My light mountaineering skis were sub par in the crud, but everyone had fun. Back at camp at 11:30 for lunch and water in t-shirts. We did a combination of strategies on the descent, but two of us skied all the way to the dirt on the trail traverse below 3000' before booting it to the car. I think it is safe to say a good time was had by all! It was amazing to have the mountain to ourselves for like 28 hours. Views were fantastic and weather/conditions darn good. I was particularly glad to make it since I was 0-2 on ski attempts on this route. Hiking in wearing long underwear: Skinning up the ridge: Sunrise: Summit gully: Summit views:
  7. New forum software!

    Thanks a lot for the work. One thing I really liked before was the ability to see all new trip reports at a glance. I like to read them all and don't necessarily click on each region. Thanks again for all the effort, maybe TRs participation will pick up!!!
  8. [TR] Forbidden Peak - West Ridge 9/25/2017

    That's awesome. Nice work pushing through.
  9. Trip: American Border Peak - ABP - SE Route Date: 9/16/2017 Trip Report: Fred and I climbed American Border Peak via the standard route (Beckey's SE Face). It was a piece of cake, go get it! Well, maybe not sooo easy. Wear boots for ankle support, and bring poles, thats all I can say. You cant really beat Klenke's beta on Summitpost, although I though there was a bit more beta than necessary on the climbing portion; it was the easiest part of the whole trip and only 40m; 5.3 as advertised. I led the pitch from the base of the chimney through the keyhole placing only 1 piece. There is a piton, and a slung chockstone to clip, then I slung two more chockstones to get to the rap webbing at the top of the keyhole. 13.5 hours car to car with about an hour on the summit. 9.9 miles 5100' vertical If you are rapping and there are 7 pieces of webbing is it necessary to add another? If so please remove 6 or 7. This is the tat I removed from 4 rap stations. There were literally 8 pieces on one chockstone. We left sufficient webbing at each rap. (Beer can for scale). Fred on one of the traverses up high: Canadian Border Peak from the summit. The views make it all worth while, well... maybe not this time: Fred on ONE of the talus basins you traverse on the approach: Gear Notes: poles set of nuts (used 2 for a belay anchor at the bottom of the chimney) 4 cams (used 1) slings pocket knife Approach Notes: Slow more than long.
  10. Thanks for posting here, its nice to have the Rangers as members of the climbing community!
  11. Trip: Mt Triumph - NE Ridge Date: 8/12/2017 Trip Report: Me, Fred, and Max climbed the NE Ridge on Triumph in a day on Saturday. It was fantastic! Though smoky. We TH bivied for a couple of hours on Friday night and were on the trail at 2:30 am. We reached the saddle on the trail above the lakes in 2 hours, the col in 2 more. I think it was about 2 more to the notch in the ridge. Summited at 11:30 am, back to the trailhead at 9:30 pm. Navigating after the campground at the first lake was tough in the mostly dark, we took a few wrong turns. The snow was firm both directions so crampons are advised (as Max learned the hard way). We took a ramp on the right hand side of the gully to reach the notch in the ridge. This was really easy, third class at the worst spot. We simul-climbed the entire ridge except the crux crack, which I followed in approach shoes without doing a single crack technique move - because I suck at those. We rapped I think 5 times on the way down, near the crux and at the bottom mostly. We found two places where it was more than a 30m rap to the next station... Not sure what that is all about since everyone says a single 60m works. It worked, but was kind of dumb belaying out like 10 feet to the next station. Just make sure the first person to rap has the rack. The views the entire time from the col were great although there was still a lit of smoke - thanks a lot Canada! All in all a great day out! We were all pretty wiped by the time we hit the car again, and I was a bit bummed to miss out on the bivy, but the weather called for rain on Sunday. I would say it is moderately reasonable as a single day trip if you are comfortable simul-climbing or soloing low 5th class. Fred posturing on the summit while the Pickets and Max look on: Some cool clouds spilling over the ridge between Triumph and Despair (no joke intended): A colorful moment in the mountains (literally): Gear Notes: 2 30m ropes approach shoes 6 cams to 3" set of nuts 13 runners axe crampons Approach Notes: Doing it in the light would be good, at least until the second lake.
  12. Well expressed and a good assessment of the issues involved. I have been almost killed by rappelling parties as well. BE CAREFUL out there, please, everyone. And try to avoid knocking stuff down while raping. Glad you ended up OK.
  13. Trip: Sloan Peak - Corkscrew Date: 7/29/2017 Trip Report: Me and Chris climbed Sloan Peak on Saturday from the N Sloan Trailhead off N Fork Sauk River Road. It was a good long day, but due to light packs totally doable. We spent 12.5 hours car-to-car I believe. It was 11.5 miles and 6100' vertical gain. The scrambling was pretty easy, route finding very easy. The glacier was getting pretty broken up though. It will be passable for weeks yet, but a little sketchy. Maybe take a couple of pickets to set as running pro as there was some tight zig-zagging on snow bridges. We wore approach shoes for the trip but did end up with wet feet due to the snow walking; we did try to stick to snow as much as possible on the way out though. Crampons are recommended as much of the snow was icy even in the afternoon. First views of the summit: A fantastic section of the "scramble": Glacier Peak from the summit: Baker, White Chuck, Pugh and Bedal from the summit: Glacier-polished slabs on the descent: Gear Notes: 30m rope, axe, crampons, helmets. Approach Notes: Sloan Peak Trail was a bit brush and wet (due to dew) in the morning but easy to follow. Snow begins at about 5000' but can be avoided all the way to the glacier if you want.
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