JasonG

Sweet! Such a good climb- a CLASSIC. I'm a bit surprised it isn't busier. On the 4th weekend a few years ago we were the only ones on the route and, like you, had that beautiful ridge camp to ourselves.

There is a reason they only come in this configuration. It's pretty optimistic to think you'll be able to climb real ice with approach shoes. Regular strap-on Al crampons work fine for anything less than actual water/glacial ice. I like the longer points of Stubai ultralight universals, personally.

I don't think so, but perhaps @therunningdog did? The only way I could think that you wouldn't have problems coming back would be to go a different way!

It looks pretty involved from the summit of Fernow, but maybe that's what you're after?

Yes, yes it is.

92 as of this weekend! I won't finish this year I don't think, but I'm getting closer. And no, we didn't do any bouldering on Shelter Rock, but I can see how that would be a thing. It is pretty impressive!

Thanks much @G-spotter!

Totally amazing!

Great beta for a nice looking trip, thanks.

Wondering about the road into the Statlu Lake TH specifically, 2WD?.....Thanks for any info!

We rapped to the SW, I believe. It seemed like the only reasonable route in the conditions we found and wasn't tricky to figure out. Since most everything was buried in rime we added a station below the summit to reach easy snow below. I think it was 2 single raps. Yeah, you definitely want a good freeze before embarking on that route.

You'll want it to be cold for getting up and down the summit pyramid, but with a good freeze and an early start I would think you could keep it manageable with a 13k FL. If you don't get either, it is an awesome place to hang out on a long weekend and well worth the hike in and out of basecamp. I was pleasantly surprised by how great a climb it was on a 4th of July weekend a few years ago....

Thanks @genepires! Choss can be beautiful sometimes, just don't let @cfire hear you say it.

@Marcus Russi....thanks for that. @jon fixed the photos!

They're opening back up soon! And perhaps as Second Ascent again...

After stalking @kmfoerster on IG, my estimate is he would be a fantastic roommate for folks that peruse this site! Just don't hold my opinion against the lad.

The audio would only confirm how right you are there @Bronco!

Maybe I won't use my store credit for toilet paper after all....

OK....GPX now there at the bottom of the original post!

Well, shoot....looks like the GPX didn't upload. Will try again tonight..... (and add captions) Yeah @genepires, that photo with Three Fingers and Whitehorse has all those walls, with Green Giant Buttress in the foreground.

OK @Asfahl....added captions. I wish Smooting paid like NatGeo!

Love how casually you guys dispatched that!

It should be fine from an avy standpoint. The final slope on Eldorado isn't super steep, at least where you can't mitigate the hazard by moving to the edge of whatever slope is of concern.. Of course, you'll have to make those calls when you are up there since you can't know if you don't go. That said, being a weather weenie will serve you well in your climbing career (it has for me). I typically always have a east side backup if the weather is crap on the crest. Silverstar, for example.

Actually, I prefer coffee

Did you say Lemon?