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JasonG

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Everything posted by JasonG

  1. There is a newish issue though that is causing some of the images in old TRs to not display properly (i think they are being pulled from old gallery?). This is on @jon's to-do list.
  2. The gallery was one of the major reasons the decision to upgrade to the new platform was delayed for so long. It is unfortunate, but it was the only way to move the site into the future. The old board just wasn't working any longer.
  3. Yes, you are correct. And sorry to not reply to your message about this @tanstaafl. This just reminded me!!
  4. It is a memorable route, for sure. There were two parties at Thumb Rock when I climbed it in 2002, ours of four and @sepultura's of two for six total climbers. We didn't experience any rockfall at camp, though I was almost taken out by a bowling ball sized rock on the Black Pyramid. I also remember it was so calm when we woke up that you could've had a candle lit outside the tent and it wouldn't have blown out. Eerie that high on a major peak, and the only time I've ever experienced anything like it. It was mid 20's as well. So completely perfect.
  5. Wow, the Carbon looks terrible for this time of year!
  6. Climbing mountains and the attendant hazards refuses to be calculated, despite our best efforts (which doesn't mean we shouldn't try and stack the odds in our favor). No matter the plan, chunks of rock or ice won't necessarily care. A few of my dead friends testify to this unfortunate fact of climbing.
  7. Not if you climb the Emmons and ski it first thing in the morning!
  8. I've definitely seen it go well beyond the uptrack (100s of yds) over the years! Nice style, that is on my list to do it that way
  9. As we were listening to the story this morning, my wife said "You're not climbing that again!"
  10. Ugh Hard to find fault with anyone in this one. Thumb rock is a fraught location, but about the only place to camp that is somewhat sheltered on that massive face. Yet another reminder that the game we play isn't very safe. Condolences to all involved.
  11. That's fast! Dwight would be tickled to know that this route has become popular. It was one of his favorite adventures. When he relayed the story of it to me in the 90's it was obvious the details were still fresh in his mind, nearly 60 years later.
  12. Not like a thin plastic bag. I don't think it is a coincidence that nothing in my garbage bag has been chewed over the past 20 years while often things left outside have been. I'm guessing it gums up the bastards' teeth or something?
  13. !!!!! I've had pretty good luck putting all stuff not in a tent in my pack liner (garbage bag) at night. The whole snaffle running around and biting hands during the day though.... Yowza.
  14. I find that putting everything in a big plastic bag at night seems to dissuade those little bastards. I think they don't like chewing through the soft plastic of a bag? Or maybe I've just been lucky? Yes @curtveld, @Alisse is right on the money. This is the time of year when you want to go for Constance! Also, check out the West Arete (photos broken in the cc.com db for the time being unfortunately) which is profiled in Kearney's excellent selected climbs guide.
  15. Sorry for the obvious, but have you talked to a good ortho about it?
  16. I was wondering about that section with snow on it. I've gone thru that a couple times when dry and it does get your attention.
  17. Hear that people? Contact JGAP LLC for all your alpine planning needs! Very reasonable rates that match my very reasonable alpine success rate. Increase your Bulger and Smoot ticks this summer, and decrease your alpine failures*, with one quick call: 1-800-JGAPLLC *results vary, may not actually improve alpine performance. No refunds, or guarantees. You may die, be maimed, or otherwise be inconvenienced based on advice given by JGAP LLC.
  18. Oh, I should add that the lower cliffs by Moraine lake were nearly melted out when we went. It is likely to be significantly worse now, and not a lot of fun to connect the glacier to the lake. Also the lake was beginning to melt out with open water on both ends. So likely not in great shape at the present....
  19. Weird....displays fine in my browser. Still the case? If so, we'll need to get @jon to investigate.
  20. I suspect nearly all have been on skis during the spring. It seems to get done by at least 5-10 parties a year, and there were at least three groups ahead of us this season. Oh, and we saw a mating pair of Harlequin ducks at the inlet to the lake!
  21. Friendly reminder that the photos are sized for large screen work diversions, and that the cc.com photo viewer is activated by clicking on the first photo. I'll add some captions during the week....
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