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Everything posted by JasonG
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Route suggestions for Mt. Baker in late September?
JasonG replied to Georgy's topic in Climber's Board
Good point to bring up. It is pretty solid though, with all the parties that go up and down the summit gully. Agreed that late season on Baker is often less than fun. Well, all the volcanoes really. -
Route suggestions for Mt. Baker in late September?
JasonG replied to Georgy's topic in Climber's Board
Mount Shuksan! Way more iconic than Baker. Sulphide in late season.... Permits can be an issue, however, on Shuksan. Late season on Baker this year you'll probably be left with Easton. Sounds like Coleman went out early with crevasse shenanigans. -
This is getting good! I'm sure @G-spotter has a couple more possibilities......
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Oh come on now. Don't you all love flab, sore tendons, and overbooked calendars? We didn't know then that the best was yet to come!
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I almost feel bad interrupting this amazing string of ascents to say......wow. Shine on you crazy diamond.
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Not to pile on @KevinO100, but Whitney doesn't prepare one for Rainier. The glacial hazards are very real on Rainier and most people aren't going to want to have someone along on a private climb that isn't familiar with crevasse rescue and self-arrest. Which is a long way of saying that your chances of joining a group on this website are pretty slim. The guide services, however (as @DPS points out), are perfectly suited to your request. All those extra hours you work could easily pay for it
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I am very sorry for your loss @mjemond, thanks for those memories.
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for sale Saturday, not Friday, not Sunday, in Index
JasonG replied to MisterMo's topic in The Yard Sale
Click on the file people! That is the best yard sale advert, ever. -
I should have added that all epics aren't bad. Classic.
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IMO, the WRs of Stuart and Forbidden along with NE ridge of Triumph (Fred lists as 5.6-5.7) are a pretty big step up from the Tooth and the scene of many epics over the years (not that the Tooth isn't!). Beckey route on LB is another good one but a bit tougher (Fred lists as 5.6-5.7) than the Tooth or Ingalls. Go after the gully melts out. Good luck!
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But, it is possible that it was done by lucky drunks. Canadian drunks can be very lucky, in my experience.
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South Arete of South Early Winter's Spire. Maybe the West Ridge of the North Twin Sister? Ingall's is a good one that you've already mentioned. The NE ridge of Black is very loose compare to the Tooth. This isn't the Sierra, so you choices similar to the Tooth are pretty limited. Most of the Cascades technical peaks involve loose rock, steep snow, brush, and glaciers.
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first ascent [TR] Hozomeen Mtn, South Pk - North Face, IV+ 5.9
JasonG replied to lunger's topic in North Cascades
Way to bump this @Szyjakowski! -
[TR] Das Toof - The Tooth Fairy, 5.9+ 08/15/2019
JasonG replied to tanstaafl's topic in Alpine Lakes
I lost respect for my climbing ability many years ago. -
[TR] Das Toof - The Tooth Fairy, 5.9+ 08/15/2019
JasonG replied to tanstaafl's topic in Alpine Lakes
You are, at least by the "standard" routes (is anybody ever ready for @rat and @lunger routes? Are even they?). Both summits are worthy and should get more attention, if only to get away from the IG masses. -
[TR] Das Toof - The Tooth Fairy, 5.9+ 08/15/2019
JasonG replied to tanstaafl's topic in Alpine Lakes
DAMN. So....many....Legends. All in one spot. CC.com lives! -
Totally! You could also go with the G7 or G5 from Canon which are a bit cheaper. The key with any decent digital camera is to shoot RAW, and and post process in something like Lightroom. I personally prefer the Canon interface to Sony, but both will be far superior to a phone pic, esp. when zooming.
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[TR] North Cascades - NW Face of Forbidden Peak 08/04/2019
JasonG replied to Bill8's topic in North Cascades
Depending on the season, there is now a fully spanning crack that limits access, plus where the raps deposit you had gotten much spicier with glacial recession.....- 7 replies
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- north cascades
- forbidden peak
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(and 2 more)
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It was very controversial but, like @Rad, the reality IMO is a lot more benign than what I initially feared. Still haven't gotten around to using it, but Sky Pilot is on the list! Maybe after they fix the gondola though....
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[TR] North Howser Tower - All Along the Watchtower 08/06/2019
JasonG replied to JeffreyW's topic in British Columbia/Canada
An incredible amount of work in that beta, wow! I have to say that I'm surprised that you ran into another party on it, I guess the Bugs really are getting that busy now? -
Maybe if you post a TR (with lots of pretty pics) more will see your lost and found request?
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@G-spotter , sarcastic? Never. I have no info on the pocket glacier condition, but if it hasn't slid I wouldn't want to be anywhere near that approach.