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Everything posted by JasonG
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Great write-up on that adventure, thanks! Have you tried to cut and paste the content over here @Kposaune? I'm always curious if that is an easy option for folks that maintain their own blogs. Chances are, cascadeclimbers will long outlive most blogs and the info will be accessible for future generations.
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@KiiraA....link to download a couple posts above.
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[TR] Argonaut Peak - North East Couloir 11/17/2018
JasonG replied to PorterM's topic in Alpine Lakes
That looks spicy! -
Trip: Lundin - Southeast Ridge Trip Date: 11/17/2018 Trip Report: Ahhhhhhh......... Smooting. Is there ever a better fall activity? Wait, don't answer that. Just look at the photos below and don't feel so sad that the ski season hasn't really started yet (have you bought your Smoot copy yet?). And get a warm fuzzy feeling knowing that @cfire, @genepires, @Kit, and myself all had a very nice friendship hike to the top of a snowy ridge. "Congratulations! it wasn't terrible."- @cfire #moderatealpinism Gear Notes: half rope, ice axe, crampons, helmet, light rack (this time of year). When the rock is dry you can probably scramble it all at a grade of exposed Cl. 4. Snow and ice made it a bit more exciting. Approach Notes: Commonwealth Basin trail to the end and then follow the ridge up.
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Metal on metal is an acquired taste @cfire
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I need to go back!
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Yep, that's the cover of his book, and I highly recommend it!
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Ohhhhhhhhh, wow. Cool. That area is pretty neat. Snoqualmonix!
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Ice density in crevasses on the Coleman Glacier
JasonG replied to Wildearth's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Monopoints may be the ticket, but I suspect that vertically oriented frontpoints on something like the G14 would also work well. Most importantly with any crampons, they need to be sharp! And yes, my experience is that the deeper you go the harder the ice, but your glaciologist would know better. -
You boys are persistent. Well done!
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Ha! So true. Downclimbing the couloir and dealing with the runnels on Nooksack Tower comes to mind. At some point I broke and demanded that we burn all the pickets we had to rap it. "What if someone falls into a crevasse, on the slog back to camp?" "At this rate we won't survive to slog back to camp!"
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or tear your pack apart! Wear a helmet, that's for sure.
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Not surprising, lots of choss out there to pioneer! A lifetime of adventure awaits just a few miles away.....
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Looks like Roger Jung terrain. I have no idea but I'd like to climb Bannock from the other side some day...
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Agreed, if it is that sketchy to climb up typically you bail because it would be even worse to ski!
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Well shoot, @jon, look at that!! I had no idea we had that functionality. I'm a total Luddite. I think that'll be just fine, thanks!
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I emailed @jon the pdf so hopefully he can get it up in the next couple weeks @diepj. He is a busy guy....
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True, but the new site is still pretty easy to use from a phone, even TRs. Try it!
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Sounds perfect. They'll be more opportunities when conditions are better!
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One thing to keep in mind with more challenging routes is to have some breathing room on the back end of your itinerary in case something goes wrong, or the weather comes in quicker than forecast. If the closes down for a few days after you are slated to be done it could prove problematic to mount a rescue. I know you are young and invincible, but.....
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You HAVE to hit it right. Otherwise it could easily be horrible or fatal. I've gone a few times and only hit it right once. You really need a snowpack without PWLs and a La Nina winter.
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The rock isn't very good, from the little I've poked around the regular route. Skiing the north face, on the other hand.....