JasonG

Trip: Forbidden Tour - Standard plus Eldrorado ski Trip Date: 05/05/2019 Trip Report: I'd been wanting to do this tour for more than a dozen years and I wasn't disappointed....Let's just say that. We did it in a leisurely three days (camp one below Sharkin) which allowed for a full afternoon of oogling at one of the premiere deep holes in the range - Moraine Lake. Often looked at, but rarely visited, it has vistas that even Harvey Manning would struggle to translate into words. If you follow our itinerary, on days one and three you should expect shenanigans, which are mostly unavoidable, but such is the price for one of the great adventures in the range. It is worth the price of admission. Special kudos to the young Tyler, for putting up with the predictable banter (chronic pain, kids, politics, etc.) from a bunch of middle aged dudes for a few days, and gamely signing onto a trip where he didn't know any of us. Your enthusiasm for the range will serve you for many years! I could've spoiled it for you with a lot more info, but I'll let you dream about it for a few years and imagine, like I did. Gear Notes: Skis or splitboard. Whippet or light axe. Boot crampons, ski crampons, helmet, crevasse rescue gear, enough rope for a 30m rap. Approach Notes: Sharkfin col (go up the easy gulley but not all the way- turn left halfway up to established station) to Boston Gl. to Forbidden Gl to Moraine Lake to Inspiration and out standard Eldo trail.

Looking for some cheap tools to get you up the classic moderates? These will serve you well, with lots of life left. I'm not sure what's fair but how about $60 each or $100 for the pair. Both have lock down leashes. I'm in Mount Vernon but can get them to Seattle or Bellingham

I love this.

Well done @Alisse and Tyler that's a classic. I hope I can keep up with Tyler next time I get out with him.

Oh, I was thinking of you @DPS!

ummmmmmm......no thanks. It seems like everyone who climbs the route these days in high summer has some near death experience. I've tested fate enough in the hills.

What did you think of it @tanstaafl?

Thanks for pointing this out @ivan. This is a known issue (some of my TRs also) that @jon is going to take a stab at when he can.

This is slowly making it onto my list!

I think it's a generational cheap bastard thing. It's funny, I have all sorts of gear that only lives in the mountains and my basement. I feel funny wearing it in the lowlands, mainly because I'm so cheap I want to prolong the life as long as possible. When it gets totally patched and ratty like my '98 Marmot puffy, I stop taking it to the mountains and go get beer money at the nearest off-ramp.

I bought my first pack there in the mid 90's, a bulletproof Osprey that has been all over the world with me (it was a major expenditure for me in those days). I still have it, but mostly it gets lent out these days since it weighs about 8 lbs. Most recently it went on a month long NOLS trip to AK with a friend's son.

Hey, it was the 90's, man.

Oh? I guess when I moved north years ago I lost touch. When did that sale happen? Great name dropping... more memories. Ian fitted my first pair of Intuition liners at the shop back around 2005. I spent a memorable evening chatting with Keith at the base of Prusik in 2000....

I bought a lightly used pair of Birkenstocks at Second Bounce when it was in Fremont, sometime in the late 90's. They were $25, and I'm still using them (with new soles). I also bought a pair of barely used Scarpa SLs for $40 before I went on our first Nepal trip, and used them for many hundreds of miles (thousands?) over the past 15 years (again with a new sole courtesy of Dave Page). I guess this mostly means I should have spent more money there over the years! So many good memories in that store ( @wbk @runningdogWaddington presentation, etc.!), and agree that the Seattle area is much worse off for their closure.

It's on the list, thanks for the reminder!

I guess I waited too long to use my store credit.

Trip: Little Yoho Valley- Stanley Mitchell Hut - President, Vice President, McArthur, Isolated, etc. Trip Date: 04/09/2019 Trip Report: I'm not the guy to adequately describe a trip like this in words. When it all gels- weather, snow, partners, location- my descriptions fall flat. Suffice it to say that this was a good one. We spent six days in the backcountry, including four full days of skiing and peak bagging around the historic Stanley Mitchell hut. AKA as the "gem" of the Canadian Rockies, a special thanks goes out to the ACC for maintaining such an atmospheric spot to rest, relax, and slay powder. It is so great that you almost forget about the long slog in. Almost. While the core of our group was the usual suspects ( @Kit, @Trent, myself, and Gordo), it is notable that we had someone along that had never met any of us. Austin should be commended on his ability to deal with our aged pace, low risk tolerance, and poor hygiene. He is a fine young man and should not be hanging out with the likes of us. And, after this trip, he probably won't! But for a few days at least we all clicked, and there was only the present. We were able to stand on summits in the sun, looking out on mountains beyond mountains, with nobody else around. It is hard to get any better. The 13km road slog to start: The inside of the historic Stanley Mitchell hut President and VP: Austin and Gordo booting up the Prez: @Kit: Summit of President: Big Country, but not the band: Looking over at the V.P.: Avalanche Roulette on the V.P.: Austin picks correctly: We can all learn a thing or two about skiing from Gordo: And @Kit can teach us to pin it: When we were traversing behind this cornice, some of it fell off in a cloud of powder: Austin on the summit of McArthur: @Trent and @Kit getting ready to head up Isolated: Patagonia Provisions provides! The one and only Stanley Mitchell: @Kit heading to Emerald Pass with Mount Marpole behind: Proper head coverings are essential in the Great White North: Gear Notes: Whiskey, meat, cheese Approach Notes: Long

That is surprisingly bare for this time of year @specialforest. Must have been cooking!

If you want rock climbing objectives in good shape in the Cascades, this is a tough time of year. July, however, is primo.

You can always get a cheap pair of bindings and cut the highback down to the right height for your boots. I did that to make my board "cool" back in the 90's.

I went with all easy routes and started with Liberty Bell, Beckey Route and finished with South Arete on SEWS. It was pleasant and not overly committing. Still, it took us all day and I was tired. Hey @jon....looks like the photo links are busted in the TR linked above? They should be on the cc.com server.....

NBC or 3Cs could easily be climbed in AT boots, though typically ski conditions are very poor when these are in good shape (as Gene points out). I climbed both in plastic boots after walking in during good spring conditions. I wouldn't want to climb a long rock arete in AT boots and haven't. I save those routes for after the ski season. I guess I'm a firm believer in climbing routes when they are in the "best" shape, i.e. the most enjoyable. This can mean other parties, but I'm OK with that. If you want solitude during the busier season, you can always go during the week.

Gene brings up a very good point. I typically try and tailor my objectives to conditions, including approach conditions. When things are snowy and soft, I stick to lower angled objectives easily done on skis. When conditions firm up you can usually ditch flotation and just walk, greatly simplifying everything.

Sahale is a great example of a good ski mountaineering peak in the spring. Just a short bit of snowed up 4th class that is easy to climb in AT boots. No need to haul your boots all the way in! There is a recent TR using this exact approach

There is no secret miracle gear for the shoulder seasons. Most (including me) use skis until it isn't fun, and then at some point in the year transition to doing trips with just boots (I typically leave the skis at home after early/mid June or so). Modern AT boots climb just fine, at least if you aren't talking a lot of fifth class. It seems, at least to me, that the rock routes are typically in poor condition that time of year anyways. You can find a lot of good options in used AT gear, esp if you aren't super picky.