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Everything posted by JasonG
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[TR] Dragontail Peak - Triple couloirs 03/31/2019
JasonG replied to kmfoerster's topic in Alpine Lakes
If it cools down as forecast this upcoming weekend....it's possible. Often late April brings pretty good conditions. -
But that wouldn't that mean I need a FB account? For those that want to know, there was continuous snow from the Trans Canada about a week ago, probably a few bare patches now. I'll post a TR eventually....so much to ski out of Stanley Mitchell!
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They've extended the comment period to May 13th 2019. There is still a lot of time! I am already a party of record and will try and update this thread as I know more. The Skagit Tribes and Seattle City Light are on the record already opposing the current application and calling for an EIS. Not sure about the NPS. There is a mining resource area in the Skagit County comp. plan for this location (outright denial isn't on great legal ground) so I think comments are best expressed in the vein of trying adequately understand the likely effects (noise, traffic, etc.) of expanded quarry operations. I think most feel that the current SEPA application doesn't do a good job of this. Most have been stressing that an EIS is warranted to fully flesh out the possible effects and what effective mitigation measures might be. At some point Kiewit will be seeking a comp. plan amendment to expand the mining resource area. That will be another opportunity to make your voice heard.
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If you value peace and quiet on your way to North Cascades National Park, please take a few moments to review and comment on the proposal to expand quarry operations along the Rockport Cascade Road, across from town: https://www.skagitcounty.net/Departments/PlanningAndPermit/MarblemountQuarry.htm Short story- Kiewit is proposing to mine 6 days a week, 12 hours a day, for up to 100 years. They will be drilling 5-6" holes in rock, and shooting the quarry daily. Up to 150 trucks a day with one rock loads, the rock primarily bound for the mouth of Columbia and SE AK (good saltwater breakwater material). In particular, I worry about the intersection of Hwy 20 and 530 in summer months with heavily loaded trucks turning west up the hill from 530. Among other things..... Like noise. I mean, you can hear a chainsaw miles away up there, let alone quarry operations! I think a full EIS is certainly warranted and have let Skagit County officials know. Thanks for taking a look!
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[TR] Mt Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir 04/05/2019
JasonG replied to Woodcutter's topic in Alpine Lakes
Finally someone explained Brexit! -
[TR] Mt Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir 04/05/2019
JasonG replied to Woodcutter's topic in Alpine Lakes
Totally wicked. Glad you dodged the avy dragon! That topo is fantastic.... Brings back good memories of a trip long ago with @Juan Sharp and @DPS and Kurt Hicks..... -
[TR] Mount Saint Helens - Worm Flows 03/24/2019
JasonG replied to JasonG's topic in Southern WA Cascades
Thanks @Water, those are great (especially the second from the bottom)! Clouds are pretty necessary for great imagery. Something I have to remind myself when I am groping around in a ping pong ball. -
There is nothing to see up there.
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[TR] Dragontail Peak - Triple couloirs 03/31/2019
JasonG replied to kmfoerster's topic in Alpine Lakes
Excellent! Such a classic. -
Paging @G-spotter...
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You realize that this isn't someone who has spent any time on a glacier, right @ScaredSilly? For first timers (at least in my experience), just being on a huge glacier with deep crevasses is plenty exciting.
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No idea....still happening? Any ideas @jon?
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Wondering if anyone has up to date info on snow depth in the Little Yoho, specifically if the road is still covered or has bare areas? Going to Stanley Mitchell Sunday, if possible. Thanks for any info!
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I think it is rad that you guys can be casual about climbing a route like this @Marko @rat. One of the great aspects of climbing is that it is can be infinitely tweaked to your tastes and fitness, creaky knees and all. For me, it means low angled vegetated terrain, most of the time.
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How many pink tricams?
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Yes, June, and yes a 20 degree bag should be fine. The guides will do a good job of looking out for your safety, I just was letting you know that all routes on the mountain are not equally safe.
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You can go this way, but I think it is better to just throw some rags (old t-shirts work great but you need to toss them after use) on them, heat them up with an iron and peel all that crap off. Some of the glue will come off, but not all of it (depending on how much you heat it). Then, lay a very thin layer of new glue, let it dry over night, and heat it up again under parchment paper to smooth it out. Voila! I think it is probably a bit faster than picking out bits, but it will cost you a tube of glue. I've never been patient enough to pick out even half that much crap from my skins after spring misahps. Of course, you can always go full Darin and strip it all off. He gives some good tips above. And yes @Ben Johnson we want a full blown TR!!
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Yes. Objective hazard is something that is often indifferent to you skill level (Google Alex Lowe's death). The various routes on the mountain vary tremendously in objective hazard, with the Emmons being by far the safest from that standpoint. A crevasse fall doesn't fit in this category and is more related to your skill level in picking a good line up the mountain. You'll learn this in your seminar and how to stack the various risk odds in your favor. And, the mountain gets bony after mid summer, increasing the danger of rock and icefall, and making the glacier travel trickier and less safe. Rainier is typically in terrible condition come September (at least compared to June). Regarding your risk comparison.....Nobody close to me has died in a car accident. Too many of my friends have been killed in the mountains. I don't buy driving being just as dangerous as climbing mountains per hour of activity (we drive a lot more than we climb typically).
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Trip: Mount Saint Helens - Worm Flows Trip Date: 03/24/2019 Trip Report: Last weekend @Bronco, @Kit and a couple others went down to join the gong show that is the pre-limited entry St. Helens spectacle. It has gotten a bit more popular in the 18 years since I last skied it, making for a loud and chaotic TH bivy. There was plenty of snow from the car, however, making for an efficient skin to the crater rim (if you had ski crampons). The sheer humanity visible along the way was pretty entertaining, although I think the entertainment value was lost on the two older Asian dudes we saw consulting a map, who were later rescued by helicopter (cold, but fine). We escaped the masses by traversing west to the highest point on the rim (we left our skis where we hit the crater). The ski down was OK, but the visibility less than ideal. Still, it was pretty great to be drinking beer at the car less than 30 minutes from leaving the summit. That, at least, hasn't changed. Gear Notes: skis (or a splitboard if you are mentally deficient like me), ski crampons Approach Notes: Follow the conga line up the snowshoe superhighway from the Marble Mountain SnoPark
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Not really. The Emmons is pretty safe from rock and icefall, much more so than any other route on the mountain. You don't want to be on the mountain after July.
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The DC isn't real safe from an objective standpoint either.
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If you are going to spend a bunch of time on the mountain, I'd prefer the Emmons. I'm not a big fan of objective hazard, which the Kautz has in spades. The Emmons is the safest on the mountain by a long shot.
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