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hefeweizen

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About hefeweizen

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    enthusiast
  • Birthday 11/30/1999

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    PNW
  1. Bravo! Great linkup. IMHO the most efficient route from the top of Acid Baby to Prusik would be to drop straight down towards Isolation Lake from the top of Asgard Sentinel and get on the trail. Eliminate all the dead end slab scrambling.
  2. Nice John! We saw you guys on the Roan as we were walking out. We had thought about doing Center Stage that day but deemed it too hot for our tender toes. We did do the walk off, you definitely want to go west off the summit until it's obviously non-technical to descend south. As long as you do that it's chill.
  3. Trip: Darrington - Flight of the Falcon 5.10b/c Trip Date: 06/18/2018 Trip Report: There is plenty of information available about this route, both on this website and in Cascades Rock. Nothing has changed regarding approach details or the route itself. Some of the "dry" creekbeds that are recommended during the approach had running water in them, but were drying up as we were exiting. Also, the entire basin below Salish is still snow-filled. The snow was soft for us and there was no need for ice axes/crampons. We did fine in approach shoes. We found the climbing to be spectacular, fun, and well protected. One note: if you aren't psyched on the "dirty 5.8 slot" that is described as the second to last pitch (pitch 8 if you want to summit, which of course you do) it can easily be bypassed on the climber's left by low 5th class, bushy, protectable cracks. Pitch 2, with Three Fingers Peak in background: The impressive Waterfall Basin, with the huge bivy boulder in the center: Gear Notes: Singel rack to 3" was good, 12 QD's, 2 60 meter ropes if you are going to rap. Approach Notes: A good sense of humor and attention to detail will serve you well.
  4. Dynafit TLT 7 Performance- $500 -BRAND NEW in the box! -Size 26.0, BSL 283mm -2017/18 model, Dynafit's premier ultralight ski mountaineering boot Volkl Nanuq 185 w/ Dynafit Radical ST bindings, G3 skins, and Voile ski crampons- $450!! - a few seasons of use on the skis, but in good condition -mounted for a size 26.5 boot Text 206-604-3155 if you're interested in anything. Buyer pays shipping or pickup at Stevens Pass or in Leavenworth.
  5. Still in the box with the hangtags. Size 26.0 $675 + shipping or pickup in Leavenworth or Stevens Pass 206-604-3155
  6. Access to Twin Sisters Range

    My wife recently (two weeks ago) encountered the sign stating that a $50 permit was required. She sent Weyerhauser an email asking for clarification and cc'd the Access Fund. She received a reply from the Access Fund indicating that they were aware of it and they had an upcoming meeting with Weyerhauser to discuss a number of areas in Washington with similar signage. Stay tuned.
  7. Trip: Mt Blum - North Glacier Date: 7/12/2016 Trip Report: North Cascades NP conditions blog
  8. Shuksan -- Fisher Chimney -- Snow

    Also, there is a daily lottery (7:30ish) at the ranger station in Leavenworth. There is at least one permit for each Enchantment zone available every morning.
  9. North Cascades Conditions Page

    Here is a link to the North Cascades National Park Conditions blog (specifically a recent post with photos of Boston Basin): NOCA Climbing Conditions page
  10. La Sportiva Miura's size 40 $75

    Bump for price drop.
  11. La Sportiva Miura's size 40 $75

    I probably climbed 20 pitches in these before I accepted that they are too small. They're pretty much brand new. Pick up in Leavenworth or we can work out a mail option.
  12. Avy 1

    I haven't taken a course from PAG, but they have a good reputation and I know they have quality people working for them. As far as location, Hurricane Ridge would be as good as anywhere else for an L1. The curriculum you will cover depends on simply being able to access avalanche terrain, a variety of snow stratigraphy would be nice but not necessary for an L1. As far as time of year, I would error on the earlier part of the season. You will get more out of the information you learn and be able to put it into practice more frequently this season if you take the course early in the season. If you take it late, you will have limited opportunities to practice the skills you've gained. Whenever you decide to take a Level 2, focus on a location where you can see a variety of snow stratigraphy and consider doing it away from the place you normally backcountry ski.
  13. Trip: North Cascades - Torment-Forbidden Traverse Date: 7/21/2014 Trip Report: I haven't seen any recent info on this route, so I'll throw out ours. There is plenty of blow by blow detail out there, the best I've seen is on Steph Abegg's site. I'll spare you the agonizing existential crisis that so many seem to go through as they're writing these things. We left the car at noonish on day 1, planning to get as far as we could, bivy on the route, and finish it off the next day. Getting on Torment was pretty easy, there is a moat but it's quite reasonable, especially given what you deal with on the rest of the route. We climbed the South Ridge version, which was straightforward. The rap off the north side of Torment was only slightly problematic. We sent the first person (me) straight into the moat, which was easy to climb back out of, and then I was able to tension to rope enough to get my diminutive (although she thinks she's huge) future wife straight over the moat and onto snow. Some more moat shenanigans got us back onto the ridge crest, where we simuled to what Kearney describes as the first good bivy, which is just before the steep snow/ice traverse. Looking at the traverse from our bivy in the morning. As you can see in the photo, there had been recent avalanche activity. Probably during the nuclear hot spell mid-July. We weren't psyched on traversing the snow with the equipment we had (aluminum sharps, one axe each, no screws) so we followed the variation that Steph Abegg describes which stays on the rock, does one rappel to the south side of the ridge, and follows a long ledge system to a col where one can easily regain the ridge. While this helped us avoid the snow, it did take a while. From there it's all sunshine and unicorns, except that it was raining. Fortunetly the rock dramatically improves and the route finding gets more straightforward. We cruised across the aesthetic ridge, arriving at the West Ridge notch. It had stopped raining just long enough to sucker us into finishing the thing off by dashing up the West Ridge. Having never climbed this "50 Classic", I felt it would be a shame to come all this way and bail down the colouir. Plus neither one of us wanted to have to do the first part of the traverse again, so up we went in rain gear. We found a few of these "new" blue sling rap anchors on the way back down the route. I think we did 5 rappels, some down climbing, and some traversing. The West Ridge coulior was reasonable to rappel with one 60 meter rope. The moats in there are huge and the shrund-type feature midway up is likely fully open by now. We continued to plod along, enjoying the best weather of the day during our lovely hike out. Marblemount really needs a 24 hour food option. Gear Notes: Aluminums, 2 pickets, one axe each. Glad we had the pickets to protect some of the moat stuff. I wore mountain boots all the way to the notch.
  14. What variation of this system are you using out of curiosity?
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