stevetimetravlr

Like Steve said putting that clove hitch on a silent partner would be a start Good catch, I didn't state that very well.

Use a Silent Partner instead of a clove hitch.

yes, cutting off the slings is ridiculous. You ruin the resale value and they are on there for a purpose so that rope drag doesn't move your gear. Clip the thumb loop with a small dedicated biner if you are so concerned with it so that they rack higher.

I should re-state this. Its on the 4th pitch of the SE Corner, if you count the traverse as a pitch.

What Ivan said. Have your belay partner come with extra jackets and hat for belaying and maybe even a foam pad or insulated chair. Yesterday was downright tropical out there with no wind blowing. It was blowing 40+ the day before, but the beauty of aid climbing is you can do it in the rain or storm. Were you the guys that were later over on Winter Delight? If so, we said hi to you guys and then started on the corner, but couldn't catch Ivan who soloed it twice the rascal.

ALERT! There is a large detached hanging rock, (100 lbs?), on the 3rd pitch of the SE Corner route on Beacon Rock. It is located as you near the topout to the left of the perfect little mini dihedral where there is a sandy ledge on the right at the top of the dihedral. The block is the lowest of 3 stacked blocks and has nothing under it to hold it in place. I stepped on it, and felt it move, so climbed down and looked at it, and it has detached about 1/4 inch or so, and the moss and lichen pulled away. It is just suspended there. So it could go with the next person to step on it, or it might take a crowbar but I doubt it. when it goes, if on lead, its a rope chopper, and right in line to take out the belayer on Tree ledge. Maybe next person take some white paint up and put a large "X" on it, until it can be dealt with.

Sweet!

Is that Chemical Ali?

Typical basaltic andesite climbing at this crag. They fail to mention in the article that it is high elevation and pretty cold and shady place half of the year, and the other half of the time rattlesnakes are a concern. I had one jump at me and literally go right over my head while I was climbing there, no shit! If you bring a dog be aware that this remote place has a healthy population of mountain lions as well.

Excellente!

I think Plaidman has been climbing almost every day now for weeks. I'm envious. Here he is yesterday way up on Beacon with Tim Wilson. and here he leads the charge to top out while me and Tim's feet turn to ice. The temps drop up there once the sun goes down.

and I fricking just might!

Well he is a schoolteacher, that kind of gives ya 3 months off to enjoy life.

Is Silverman his only name, or do some people call him Geoff?

If you did not sign for them, then how do you know they were delivered?

Nice!

I'm not sure what Peter Whittaker has to be egotisical about.

Si!

I'm just saying that change is coming down the turnpike. I didn't advocate one way or another how they should get funding.

cheapholds.com

I imagine that the State will eventually SELL these lands to get them back on the tax roll, and to generate funds from the sale, and to generate more revenue thru things like mining, logging, etc. This is the new reality. Nothing is sacred when our government runs out of money, and people need to wake up and realize the situation we are coming to very very soon.

Did you guys miss the headlines that say that the State of Washington may be closing some or all of its State Parks due to funding? This year the parks were on their own, they were supposed to be raising revenue from their parking passes and camping, etc. In fact they raised far less revenue then was predicted, probably due to the $10 one time parking fee being so expensive, and so closures are coming down the turnpike. Any expenditure I am sure the Head Ranger will have to answer for, so don't look for any improvements anytime soon. In fact, much is at stake and at jepodardy. Here is the Save the Parks facebook page: http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=68557313304

Stoutness!

Rope bump!

Yowsah! 24 hours well spent or what. Wow.