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  1. Trip: Mt Huntington - Nettle-Quirk Date: 3/19/2011 Summary: On March 18th, Jason Stuckey (Fairbanks, Alaska) and I, John Frieh (Portland, OR), flew from Talkeetna to the Tokositna Glacier below Mt. Huntington. On March 19th we climbed to the summit of Mt. Huntington via the West Face Couloir (Nettle-Quirk), and descended via the same route, in just under 23 hours round trip (returning to camp on March 20th around 5 am). I believe this was the second ascent of Mt Huntington during the winter season. We found the route to be nearly all glacial ice which made for a slower than hoped for ascent as well as some amazing calf pump. Nevertheless we were pleased to complete the route to the summit and back in under 24 hours. Finally, Paul of Talkeetna Air Taxi picked us up around 9:30 am on the 20th making for less than 48 hours total in the range. Smash and Grab. Mount Huntington courtesy of Talkeetna Air Taxi Itinerary: March 17: PDX -> SEA -> ANC -> Talkeetna March 18: Paul/TAT flew us to the East Fork of the Tokostina Glacier (~11 am). Quickly set up camp and then scouted the lower portion of Nettle-Quirk. Returned to camp. March 19/March 20: Mt Huntington summit via the West Face Couloir (Nettle-Quirk). Approximately 23 hours (6 am on the 19th -> 5 am on the 20th) bergschrund to bergschrund. Paul picked us up at 9:30 am on the 20th. Details: - Though Jason lives in Fairbanks and has climbed all over the great state of Alaska this was his first trip into the Alaska Range. By chance I met Jason less than a month ago in the Anchorage Airport on my way home from Valdez. I can't thank him enough for taking a chance to go climbing with a complete stranger. - This trip likely would never have happened if it not for the excellent beta that Paul Roderick and Mark Westman provided on conditions and their opinion of the weather forecast. Mark especially has been a great source of AK beta for me over the past few years and I owe him many beers for that. Do me a favor and buy him one next time you drink with him - I also owe Colin Haley and Jed Brown thanks for the beta from their ascent of Mt Huntington in 2007, the first winter ascent of Mt. Huntington. Buy them beers also - Finally many thanks and much respect to Gym Jones for all that they have provided me. I consider their guidance and perspective one of the most valuable tools I have as a climber. Finally: the climb March 18: TAT is so cool they let us bivy in their office I let Jason have shotgun as it was his first time into the range Room with a view Crossing the schrund to recon what we would do in the dark the next morning March 19: Soloing thin slab early in the morning Glacial ice: hope your tools are sharp! Near the top of the couloir Traverse pitches Pull your balaclava down for the photo on 3 Looking back from the summit at the summit ridge March 20: 48 hours later: back in Talkeetna Approach Notes: Talkeetna Air Taxi
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