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About AOK

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  • Birthday 04/20/1982


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    Portland, Oregon
  1. Thanks Alex! I know in placing bolts I am taking responsibility for myself and the climbing community as well. I take this very seriously and will place SAFE bolts. That being said, I understand cleaning the bolt holes is EXTREMELY important, as is a torque wrench.(No epoxy necessary now that I know) These routes are going to be solid and with the help of some more 'seasoned' climbers I am excited to share this new spot with the community. Thanks again for all the advice everyone! Respects
  2. Okay, so that plan is out! Luckily I have found messages in my inbox from experienced climbers/developers who are wanting to help develop the hidden area. (Its off the beaten path for sure.) AND THEY HAVE EQUIPMENT!!! All I have to do is heal, travel from pdx to the area, buy bolts and anchors, and learn from some experienced climbers on the best way to place bolts etc... I'm STOKED! Also, they have promised to let me climb first to name the routes and the grading will come when we all climb the routes and decide on what they should be. SO RAD!
  3. Cool, so 12mm expansion bolt ought to do then... I'm glad I opted for the correct size-it just made sense and feels safer. I am planning on using a Petzl hand drill... Has anyone had experience hand drilling routes? I know I can expect a LOT MORE WORK and TIME... But I can't afford a nice drill at this point. I will clean the bolt holds with a turkey baster and steel pipe cleaner/brush. Should do the trick and thanks again for advice. Veterans who enjoy bolting are always welcome to comment. Peace.
  4. I have found an undeveloped gem in the heart of the Pacific Northwest, tucked away on private farm land. I grew up in the area and have close ties to the family who has given me permission to bolt this amazing new spot. In all of my research thus far it says gluing in stainless steel bolts is better for equipping a route then a bolt alone. I want it to be safe as I'll be the first one climbing the route. Furthermore, I would hate to leave shitty bolts for the next climber. I am using Petzl stainless steel anchors and bolts with chains at the top for top roping accessibility. (12mm) Though I have never bolted a route I have been researching it for months now. I've read the literature, online information, etc. I will do a good job but that looming fear is always in the back of my mind so any more information is appreciated. Peace.
  5. I'm getting prepared to put up some new routes at a crag I found in the gorge. I want this route to be really safe so I'm buying some very nice hardware from Petzl but my question is, What is the best EPOXY on the market that I can buy to bolt new routes? It needs to be non-reactive to water and be absolutely bomber so nobody gets hurt. Thanks in advance everyone and I'll look forward to some answers to these questions. Peace.
  6. A major tare of the medial meniscus which has somehow folded under the patellar bone causing it to dislocate. I have surgery to cut out the folded meniscus, bone fragments, and to reset the knee cap on October 4th. SUCH A BUMMER! The worst thing is not only have I been unable to work and climb for almost two months now while awaiting surgery, but school starts on Monday and trucking around my computer and books on crutches is going to be a BITCH!
  7. I'll make sure to check everything out... I am about to have an arthroscopy due to a major medial meniscus tare and am anxious to come back stronger than ever before. I thought months ago I could ignore the tare and heal naturally with physical therapy and rest, "rice," etc... I WAS WRONG. On the third day back in the gym for training I pushed too hard and sure enough-BAM-I was on the ground and calling a friend for a ride to the hospital. I want to prevent this from happening again and want to come back even stronger then before. This being my first major injury, it has been rough sitting in limbo and waiting to get back to climbing. At this point I have missed most of the summer season and the comps I wanted to participate in... Bummed. This is all a result of wanting to return and rehabilitate stronger, faster, etc.
  8. I have been a competitive athlete most of my life and at 30 years old it's obvious my body is starting to feel the pain. Opposition training isn't enough and if I want to continue building strength in this sport I need more... I boulder and sport climb, so any training program geared around rock climbing will probably be the best, though I can't imagine alpine training to be too much different. I am definitely going to start taking YOGA classes to improve breathing, flexibility, etc. Being a full time student with a part time job only allows a small budget to work around. I need to try building a program on my own until I can graduate to a more expensive training regiment with a professional trainer. I'm thinking literature, films, internet, etc. (Due to the low cost in comparison to seeing professional trainers.) Thanks for all the help everyone... I will continue checking in and appreciate any additional advice in regards to this most recent post. Respects.
  9. I am not new to climbing by any means but as I get older I'm looking for good information regarding maintaining healthy joints and muscle mass, to keep from injury and stay on the rock longer. I was hoping to get some recommendations for literature or internet sites that provide a comprehensive approach to training hard both indoors and out. I try lifting weights after a hard climb to max out or will power through EVERY easier route in the gym to build endurance. I stretch and so on... But I could use something concise and more specific to climbers. Thanks in advance and take care all. Peace.
  10. Coming Back From Injury

    So, thanks to everyone in the local community for the advice and for sharing your experience regarding injuries. That being said... I went to The Circuit and had a decent day... Put away a few harder routes and almost finished a route I'd been working on awhile before the injury. I stretched for well over an hour and was extremely cautious about what routes I climbed. Certain movements weren't going to happen so I backed off from a fair amount of top outs requiring high right feet-had no problems doing this as there were plenty of harder routes forcing movement to the left. Long story short, I'm taking advantage of this time off my right side to build my left a little more. I'm stoked! The best part was I hadn't lost much finger/upper body strength either. Rad!!! Peace.
  11. Coming Back From Injury

    I have health coverage but not very good health coverage and honestly, my experience with doctors is they will want to cut me open immediately, drug me, and make me pay out the ass for it. Not that doctors aren't great... But this injury doesn't warrant their attention at this time. If I am stupid and re-injure the same knee, I probably won't see any other option. (*crosses fingers) I think I should be alright. I woke up this morning without any discomfort and will be working on the knee later this afternoon. If I bust my shift out without any pain I will probably head to the gym for a light work out tomorrow.
  12. Coming Back From Injury

    Thank you! I am feeling confident tonight as I look forward to climbing on it soon. Probably Monday and Tuesday for some light sessions each day to see how it feels weighting the knee. I am actually "ricing" and stretching in between surfing the net and posting on here. Anyways.... I thought one of the most common injuries in climbing was either the medial meniscus or shoulders. Were your injuries in the knees? Has anyone experienced a situation like mine-specifically how it was injured and how much time I have taken off? If so, please elaborate about the injury. Any and all advice or professional opinions appreciated.
  13. Coming Back From Injury

    I am thirty years old. Not ancient but not young enough to rely on my youthful body to get me through. Furthermore, I was a ski racer in my youth and soccer player so a hard life on the knees will play its part as well. I have researched this shit for the entirety of my time off. If I can walk and bend normally then it sounds as though I can avoid surgery and be back climbing V7 or higher very soon. I have been cycling and walking without pain, and yesterday evening while drinking I messed around climbing a tree and it was fine. (However, being intoxicated I wouldn't assume much pain anyways.) The advice is much appreciated though! I think you're right-long stretch sessions, long warm ups on moderate routes, not pushing it too hard and continuing to stretch and train outside of climbing should hopefully get me back to it soon. I have major route goals this summer and am anxious to tackle some more V7 problems. I am interested to hear from someone who has had this injury before though. Any medial meniscus tears not treated by surgery out there? How was it? How long was recovery? Thanks again all! peace.
  14. As climbers we know that injury is a huge part of our sport. What I want to know is how do you all keep bouncing back? How many grades did you lose for how much time you had to take off? What can I do to get back at it faster? I was climbing a V5 indoors at The Circuit and had a REALLY high right foot to top out. Unfortunately, I hadn't stretched well enough and when I weighted the foot a loud and audible series of pops occurred. I fell to the ground in agony. Upon falling off the route I fell to my hands and knees before completely buckling in agonizing pain. I waited awhile for the pain to subside, stretched a lot more, and finished the route. Having only been at the gym a short time I wanted to stay, but knew it would be a mistake so I warmed down and left the gym. The next morning: The following morning I woke up and the knee had seized up. I was in terrible pain. I could walk alright (typical of a medial meniscus tear.), but climbing stairs and any twisting, bending down squatting etc, and the knee would completely buckle. I started doing research about the common injury and sure enough I had suffered a minor to moderate tear of the medial meniscus. Today: Today marks a full month and a half I have been forced from climbing. I have stretched, "riced", etc. I feel great and the knee seems to be okay to start climbing again. I will take it easy but I'm anxious about how many grades I have lost. I was climbing V7 when injured and I would hate to go back and struggle on a V3 or some shit, ya know?! Anyways, back to the questions at the beginning of this post: How do you all keep bouncing back with positivity? Climbing is generally enjoyed but climbing hard ass routes is even better. How many grades did you lose for how much time you had to take off? I have taken a month and a half thus far. What can I do to get back to that high level of climbing again? I'm not the most patient person. I know this could be a semi-redundant post, but I am seriously bummed and looking for some positive feedback regarding my recent injury. Anyone who has been forced to stop knows the emotional struggle of being "inactive." Its depressing. Anyways, if anyone has suffered this injury any advice offered would be wonderful. Thanks everyone! Keep on climbing...
  15. Thanks guys... My housemate and friend works at Next Adventure and I found out earlier today they are going to have them in stock in a matter of days-I've heard they're AMAZING from both pro-climbers and gear heads at the shop. Not to mention, Rock and Ice gave them a 5 0f 5 stars for this years new boots. Woot!