stevetimetravlr

I have several friends that climb 5.12+ trad, and they LOVE their Metolius cams for crack climbing, so I don't think there is some group concensus that 5.12 crack climbers don't like Metolius cams. However, they have not used the Totem cams YET! The new engineering that allows you to load a Totem cam on just one side(2 lobes) and hang off it(no guarantee it will hold a lead fall set like that but good for aid), should tell you something about their holding power in other then perfect placements and also their resistance to walking when both sides of the cam are engaged.

A friend of mine who does not post here thinks he left his rope at the base of Young Warriors a week ago, or possibly in the parking lot. 70 meter 9.2. Anyone by chance find it? Lots of good karma and good will if he gets it back.

$50- for a water proof breathable shell jacket and pants at Costco. Not helmet compatible but for $50 its hard to beat!

What is a duche? Sounds like some sort of royalty.... Dynamite is now probably inacessible for the winter by auto, as the snow is coming down hard. We should go back into Deadhorse today since no climbing due to the weather...

Totems wear as well as any of the other cams. Way more burly and long lasting then Aliens (which I loved), but thats not saying much. In fact, they even appear to wear better because of the dual axle they seem to clean easily, so you don't have to yank them around as much to get them out or in a tight placement. I think until you actually go out an use the Totems crack climbing for a weekend, anyone is resistant to them and how they look, which is kind of funky at first glance. I wasn't impressed when I first saw them, but in placement after placement on a big aid climb they worked where anything else was questionable, and thats what convinced me. Use them side by side with the BD's and Metolius cams, thats what it takes.

You couldn't do better then with a rack of Totem cams. They are THE state of the art gear protection available right now, and I can't emphasize enough how well they work in what are questionable or sketchy placements with BD or Metolius cams, whereas Totem cams lock in and you can just feel when they aren't walking or coming out, just awesome. I am a manufacturing engineer, but my asessments are based on climbing regularly and placing gear and not dyanmic testing or working in the lab with them. To me, out on the rock is where they shine and 20 feet out when all you can find is that shallow pocket or flared slot, you will be super stoked to have them.

Its hard to blow a trigger when you are a top roper. The Totem cams have revolutionized the cam market with their new design. Ground breaking cam engineering and lightweight. If I was just starting my rack I would go with the Totem cams, no question in my mind after using them. Their independent axles are equivalent to 2 cams in one cam. Rock solid, no walking. I was making a sketchy shallow placement yesterday with a BD yellow cam, and was wishing I had a Totem cam instead because I knew the BD would walk and possibly blow, but if I had a Totem it would have been rock solid. I ended up placing 2 questionable cams and a shit stopper and still was not happy, instead of what would have been one bomber Totem cam. Totem cams rule, especially in those flaring or shallow granite or basalt placements.

I see Justin has been up to his old tricks! Good send guys and in freezing temps, brrrr.

The memory is always the first thing to go...no second thing, wait....which is it?

Only 2.7 miles? Well thats casual. I was told it was pushed 8 miles a couple years ago by a couple guys in a side tube and that they spent days in there. But never knew the info and facts, TFPU!!

Dynamite Cave, the Movie!...

Classic "horse"shit TR.

The Muddler Mazes a guy called them once. I say we go on in and get lost. I hope you have a big ball of string. Deadhorse is also the longest known lava cave in North America, about 8 miles. That passage turns off in the cave early though. I have been in only about less then a mile on that passage and its brutal and some crawling and low ceilings and narrow. I can't imagine being 8 miles in, I start hyper ventilating thinking about it. Lets do it.

Here Ivan is about to enter the gates to hell. Somebody had already broke them down though, so it was rather easy to get in. Top row Reed Fee, Mark Lemke, The Phuzzy, Plaidman, and Ivan bottom row Stevetimetravlr, Rick Harrell, and Karen. Adam the Phuzzy at the end of the 2nd rap. Ivan climbing past the bottomless hole as far as we knew to get to the rap on the other side. Adam re-rigging from ascent to descent. Steve and Rick the birthday boy! strange colored rock and minerals in the cave Mark pulls his jumars off the rope. Rick and Reed top of the last section on the way out. Good times. It must almost be time for another foray into the Cave of the Deadhorse, if there are any stout hearted individuals that can squeeze their body thru a cofee can, this trip is for you. Ivan and Phuzzy, you guys in?

It looks so fresh!

Hey Denali Dave, sorry we never caught up to ya yesterday. Would have been nice to hear your stories! Whoever does Blownout next, bring a wrench to tighten up the anchor bolts as the hangers are loose.

highly recommend 2 mini traxs, as your shirt or gear can impede one. Wallstein has it right, you can back the traxs down the rope with 2. Or if you want to take them off the rope and rap, just clip a ascender or ropeman onto your climbing rope above the traxs, clip your adjustable daisy into it and give it a yank taking your weight off the mini traxs. Quick and easy.

bump for Seamstress!

Grand adventure! Nice job guys.

Its the old mantra, "If you build a better mousetrap, some asshole will spring for it."

I remember when Bob and Mark Kroese went to the Valley and sent Seperate Reality back in the 80's. Issaquah boys crushing it. I've wanted to have a go at this ever since it was the front cover of Mountain magazine Ray Jardine on the first ascent.

$225 for a motorized permit, and every person in the vehicle must have a permit or be named on the orginal permit. $300 for a camping permit! So only $75 for an individual hiking permit seems like a bargain.

Well if you had 100 people each weekend taking a dump on your property, you probably would want to sell it to. Time for a call to the Access Fund!

Wow. I have to read this again for it all to soak in. and I thought you were just going to stick to sport climbing...

hey Ivan It was dry stone at Windsurfer in the sun, but Crusing was still wet. The east wind was whistling hard, keeping it chilly. With the rain yesterday and last night, looks like a week of wet. So we better score those dry days when we have a chance or we'll be back to aid climbing before we know it, %*($*(&! Did you do a lap or two?