TrogdortheBurninator

I bought a previous edition of this one when I was learning. Seemed good at the time. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0899974422

Wow Mark, glad to hear things weren't worse considering. Hopefully you can have a nice fast recovery and get back to gardening routes in D'town. Kudos to Stephen too!

Very, very sad. RIP

Renton?

I wouldn't sweat it too much. The first gendarme pitch is fairly easy for the grade. It is an excellent pitch, but I don't recall ever climbing anything particularly similar. It is more or less a series of jammable or underclingable roofs separated by excellent rests. The 2nd pitch is typical 5.9 OW, but only hard for a short distance. If you are comfortable on any of the classic 9s around (godzilla, princely, inca roads, etc), I wouldn't expect any trouble at all.

yes

This is where you are wrong. If you are asking somebody to "Lead" your climb, you do need a guide, you just dont want to pay for it. If you want a mentor, ask for one, and shadow the mentor on climbs they want to do.

I've always thought those posted photos and the one in the guide book were awesome! Way beyond me.

Yeah, those things break all the time

I talked to Blake right after you guys climbed the route, and he told me it was 5.10 because a 5.10 climber "probably" wouldnt kill themselves on it. I didn't really think that was the correct criteria by which to rate a route

Unfortunately, getting out even twice as much as OTH, would probably only still result in less than 1/2 the terrain covered.

Looks like some phenomenal climbing over there!

Awesome!

Closer to 38

I actually thought that some of the traverse moves on Superfly were pretty tense, but maybe I did em wrong.

you should chop all the bolts too

one 60 is fine

How about an "Other Trip Reports and Outdoor Activities" forum?

http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_view_flat;post=2137963;page=1;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;mh=25;

I've always used the gigantor double figure 8. Looks goofy, but seems solid. I'd have the same concerns about the girth slipping, so I'd prefer a hard knot.

If only there was some way these sorts of MESSAGES could be delivered in PRIVATE. That would be totally crazy!

I would say the standard classic easier routes are S. Face of the Tooth, South Ridge of Ingalls, S. Arete Sews and Beckey Route on Liberty Bell. A step up in alpine ambiance would be things like any route on forbidden, or something technical on Stuart.

It probably depends which routes you are looking at. For the easiest routes on each of those peaks, only shuksan will have potential for rock pro. In my opinion 6 pickets is excessive for any route. For the easy routes, if I were trying to be very safe, I would bring one picket and one screw each (however in spring I'd likely forgo the screw). If you have steeper routes in mind, you might bring a bit more gear for comfort, especially if you plan to climb steepish ice.

Solution: leave the draws on pron star, clean the draws on Abo