TrogdortheBurninator

This is where you are wrong. If you are asking somebody to "Lead" your climb, you do need a guide, you just dont want to pay for it. If you want a mentor, ask for one, and shadow the mentor on climbs they want to do.

I've always thought those posted photos and the one in the guide book were awesome! Way beyond me.

Yeah, those things break all the time

I talked to Blake right after you guys climbed the route, and he told me it was 5.10 because a 5.10 climber "probably" wouldnt kill themselves on it. I didn't really think that was the correct criteria by which to rate a route

Unfortunately, getting out even twice as much as OTH, would probably only still result in less than 1/2 the terrain covered.

Looks like some phenomenal climbing over there!

Awesome!

Closer to 38

I actually thought that some of the traverse moves on Superfly were pretty tense, but maybe I did em wrong.

you should chop all the bolts too

one 60 is fine

How about an "Other Trip Reports and Outdoor Activities" forum?

http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_view_flat;post=2137963;page=1;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;mh=25;

I've always used the gigantor double figure 8. Looks goofy, but seems solid. I'd have the same concerns about the girth slipping, so I'd prefer a hard knot.

If only there was some way these sorts of MESSAGES could be delivered in PRIVATE. That would be totally crazy!

I would say the standard classic easier routes are S. Face of the Tooth, South Ridge of Ingalls, S. Arete Sews and Beckey Route on Liberty Bell. A step up in alpine ambiance would be things like any route on forbidden, or something technical on Stuart.

It probably depends which routes you are looking at. For the easiest routes on each of those peaks, only shuksan will have potential for rock pro. In my opinion 6 pickets is excessive for any route. For the easy routes, if I were trying to be very safe, I would bring one picket and one screw each (however in spring I'd likely forgo the screw). If you have steeper routes in mind, you might bring a bit more gear for comfort, especially if you plan to climb steepish ice.

Solution: leave the draws on pron star, clean the draws on Abo

i just use two atc sports to rappel. best of both worlds.

.... but my little ponies aren't unicorns .... so confused

The number of bolts in the book should be the max bolts for a single pitch. If you were climbing a cool frictiony arete on the 2nd pitch, you were on the right route. I remember the crux being challenging, but 5.10 in the icicle usually is for me. Didnt feel at all out of line with other routes of the grade.

thx mr fox and everybody else. Good to finally get things wrapped up, but unfortunately work will be taking me away from the cascades, at least temporarily.

I have 3 or 4 pairs of extraverts, and they are by far my favorites. I have tried waterproofing the palms, but it doesnt seem to last long and they still wet out.

for picassa, you can trim the export code down to just the .jpg path, then use the normal tags. export code will do the resize for you.