TrogdortheBurninator

"If I have seen further it is only by standing on the shoulders of giants."

So, because you dont understand certain techniques, you assume they are unsafe?

how is that an example?

http://www.ems.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3656649&cp=3893527.3940258.3982248 adze and hammer $99 each

road adds a few easy miles. maybe 1.5 hrs extra. Snow might slow things a bit, but there is usually a cattle trail to the lake. I'd figure that dragontail approach in winter/spring is fairly close time/effort wise to prusik in summer.

2 days is pretty standard. 1 day is not out of the question if you are fit/competent. 3 days will ease things, but probably isnt totally necessary. Dont go with sketchy avy danger. Aside from the obvious risk of being swept to your death, you will be wallowing more and having less fun.

45L +- 5L. I have a Cilo 45L, but plenty of other good ones too.

Crazy! Nice work spreading the knowledge Drew.

last I checked, the two cameras that really stood out were the Panasonic LX3 and the Canon S90. Most others seemed to be a pretty big step down from these two. If I was buying a new camera, I'd definitely look there first.

ditto, will that upper grip rest fit old quarks?

So, how'd the new petzls look?

I have had Cholatses for a couple seasons, and picked up Nepal Evos this year. My Cholatses were size 43 1/3, Nepals are 44s. If I did it again, I would have gone the next size up in the Cholatses (but still a .5 size down from my street size). Cholatse fits my foot like a (loose) rock shoe, applying even pressure all the way down the forefoot. Volume IS way lower in forefoot than Nepal. Nepals have a very roomy toebox, Cholatses do not. I mostly use rigid Rambo4 crampons, so sole stiffness was not my biggest concern (aside from being sstiff enough to stay in the bails). I do use old BD bionics on occasion, and the cholatse's flex has never bothered me. No matter how tight you crank the Cholatse, for better or worse, you will not get much ankle support.

[video:youtube] another movie from last weekend

The N. Face and NW Face have a bunch of moderate technical alpine routes. The lack or presence of ice typically dictates enjoyment level. Typically they are done in spring, but favorable fall or winter conditions can bring things in to shape. IMO, the routes on the NW face are some of the best looking ice/alpine climbs in the state. Unfortunately, I never had a chance to do them. Popular routes include: Triple Couloirs The 1971 N. Face Route NE Couloir The NW face routes are less popular, but look more spectacular. Info in Beckey, Nelson Select and WA State Ice guides. Or search the trip reports here.

Got a helmet cam for xmas, so trying my hand at making some movies. [video:youtube]

Awesome pic Rudy! Question, and no disrespect to your son, as he climbs way harder than I ever will, but is city park still 13c for him, or is there a hand/body size benefit (obviously subjective)? Has he top roped other 13c s of various styles (as well as a s and b s)? Obviously continuously overhanging pin scars are gonna be hard, but I have to think a 10 year old's fingers are a bit closer in size to the #5 hb offsets I send that climb with.

not sure how tyrolean = handicapped sidewalk seems like a tyrolean would be the best solution. perhaps efforts could even be made to have it approved by the forest service.

Lots of changes for me Started out year with dearth of climbing while finishing grad school Moved to CO in April, living outside WA for first time in life Enjoying sunny weather and ample climbing, but missing the adventure of the cascades. Best Rock Climb of the Year = SW Corner of the Saber in RMNP Best Ice Climb of Year = probably NE Face of Notchtop in RMNP

Supposedly, petzl claims that trigrests can be used on Quarks. Went to check em out myself today. They will fit on the shaft just above the grip, but the design does not seem comfortable to hang off of. Finger support/ergonomics are great, but the material extending backwards digs in to the palm(unlike hose clamp of Grivel slider). Wish petzl would have just released a usable option alla the Slider or Strike.

Alpine alibi gloves are good. Nice compromise of dexterity and warmth. Cuff velcro is very secure. I like the hot pack pouch too. Not sure yet on durability. Mine are a touch big, so I'd round down in size if you cant try em on before you buy.

dont buy your skins too small. you will definitely regret it. You'd be better off buying these for $80 shipped after coupon. http://www.sierratradingpost.com/p/,2047N_Black-Diamond-Equipment-Ascension-Custom-Climbing-Skins-130mm-179-186cm.html

Same distance,maybe less wide, 1/4 the price: http://www.campsaver.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=mam0001 i've used it night skiing and was impressed. petzl is probably nicer, but $$$$$$

looks outstanding!! guess i picked the wrong winter to leave WA.