TrogdortheBurninator

Sincere condolences. David posted many memorable trip reports to exotic locales. I've wanted to go to the Adamants ever since. Very sorry to hear he was so unhappy http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/tripreports/fromsearch/1/user_name/David%20Trippett

fyi, I believe 28 and 28.5 are the same shell. So if you think the shell is too big, you'd want to get 27/27.5. Could always try a fatter liner (intuition powerwrap) or some boot fitters foam.

Woohoo!!! Need more climbing pron!

New Dynafit: any of these 3 would be awesome boots that will take you from beginner to advanced, and probably tour great.: http://www.wildsnow.com/6542/vulcan-mercury-dynafit/ The current tlt5 is not at all incremental compared to prior boots. These new stiffer boots using the same platform look excellent (but could be considered more incremental than the jump to tlt from everything else). I ski my tlts in reasonably full-value terrain, and they still get the job done. Still, something that skied like my titans, but toured like my tlts would be great. You are fairly small, so the need for a stiffer boot will be even less. Also, if earlier in the learning curve, you dont need as stiff. For current boots, with a bent toward future touring plans, check out: - current tlt5 mountain or performance. the tlt last doesnt fit all feet, but supposedly the new breed of boots next year are a bit wider. - current dynafit zzero (higher end = better) - current scarpa maestrale (next years will be better, but probably incremental by your definition) For skis: Something in the low-mid 170s with some rocker should be good for learning: - Manaslu (i think they make a 169 and a 178). 169 will be easier to learn on - Black Diamond aspect 176 - voile vector 170 - K2 coomback 174 - La Sportiva Hi5 178 (these have huge rocker, so i worry the 168 could ski too small) next year they will have a 95 waist version that IMO would be a better all around

If you dont need something right away, I'd consider waiting for next seasons crop of boots. It looks to be by far the best line of tour/ski compromise yet. Dynafit has some lightweight but beefier touring boots that build off the TLT design. Also the new scarpa maestrale look like a nice step up in performance with very little weight/tourability penalty. I have some beefy AT boots and some tlts, and the temptation is certainly strong to sell both next year for the new breed. Ski and binding wise, I'd say buy now on sale. Dynafit is less expensive than plum. I havent had any problems with my radical st's, although others have reported issues. All around skis: 95-105 waist, rockered tip, length dependent on your weight (which is???), light weight if you want to keep the focus on uphill, add a bit more beef if you want to balance with more downhill. If you want to drop some $$ DPS skis are reputed to balance the weight v performance equation pretty nicely.

I've been skiing the Voile BCs (fishscaled) for about a week now and think they are awesome. Have been able to cover quite a bit of ground on the scales, then throw on skins for steeper stuff. With the big rocker and nice width, they ski powder very well. I reckon much better than 'slus. They are light weight, and even lighter when you can get by w/o skins. Downside is that I now only propose tours that will piss off my friends. They are also a bit slow on packed dry snow, and loud on ice. On soft snow they ski very fast. I'm psyched to do some steep spring skiing on them, but that is still a few weeks out.

widest?

Hey John: Friends tried it on Sat. Guess P1 is sporting a bit of a roof and bad ice. Sounded pretty scary. They ended up bailing.

Isnt it also in Climbing Washington??

not unreasonable to come down here for the weekend... or meet in vedauwoo?

I doubt either the w. ridge or the s. face is really trivial. We rapped the s. face. The anchors are all there, but it still keeps you on your toes and you'll be excited when you finally reach the glacier. Hard to get up, hard to get down = good mountain

Wow!!!

Yep, I can see 48 but no 50. The standard Northcutt Carter Route on Hallett Peak is gone daddy gone too. I believe I've done 29. There are some cool ones! I think they actually did climb what's left of the NC on Hallet. Seemed like good style to me compared to climbing Culp-Bossier or something else on a totally different section of wall.

Youtube lets the poster see how much of the video people are watching

I suspect Ueli has enough experience to have thought that the time frame he chose (feb) would give him the best shot at a fast time. Siliarly, Dani probably thought he could be fastest in the present conditions, in spite of crowding. Be interesting to see if Ueli goes for it again.

I bought a pair of the 5-mountains a few weeks ago. I've done a few day trips in them, and spent last week skiing them up in the canadian rockies. For me, they are amazing. I have them paired with some 90mm waist 172cm karhus and it seems like a well matched combo. I drive my bigger skis with a pair of dynafit Titans. The titans are noticeably stiffer, but at much higher weight and reduced touring comfort. I'll probably keep using the titans for driving my bigger skis on short powder tours and at the resort. I havent done any technical climbing in the boots yet, but I imagine they'd be adequate, and probably better than most other ski boot options.

haha, I came up with the Rad Moc name in the Madrock/rc.com naming contest 5-6 years ago.

yeah, it looked like they skirted the main pillar via snow ramps to the right. Eric and I got part way up the 1st pitch of the left line before bailing. We did see an old pin though. No idea if it was from winter or summer or if the route was ever completed.

maybe just keep the options open?? If the IC forecast is cold, you could head down and sport climb at shelf road, climb in the S. platte, or go skiing.

2 slots

pretty psyched on my new quartz CR3, but still havent used it enough for a full report. It was on sale pretty cheap at REI.

C4 refers to only the most recent version of the 4 lobe camalot. They are easily recognizable from the molded thumb loop compared to the metal stub and u-stem of the earlier generations. I think c4s have been available for around 5 years. The previous generation are slightly heavier and handle slightly worse in my opinion. I'd say that C4s in good USED condition should fetch around 55-65% of retail. Previous generation (metal thumb stub) are probably more like 45-50% of retail. I wouldnt bother with the much older U-stem cams. I also probably wouldnt buy used gear that doesnt appear to be in goof condition.

admitting to yourself that there are those with more experience than you (everyone?) might be the first step towards being less of a jackass.

I really think the x-monster is an amazing deal. Seems you can pick up a new pair for about the same $$$ as an old pair of shrikes or rages. If Grivel made a more ice friendly pick, I think they'd be really good. I'd also be curious how some of the new high-end grivels climb (but they still have the same pick ) I dont find the shaft weird, and the swing is very natural. Swing/stick wise, worse than the nomics i've swung, better than the fusions. Don't look past them for moderate alpine scratching. I really think they excel there (i may be in the minority). For straightforward alpine snow and ice, there are certainly better/lighter choices.

i have skinny, medium size hands, and I find the x-monster grip nicely sized. Definitely not way oversized like the original BD cobra, or undersized like the new BD cobra. i think as an all-around tool, the x is very different from the orginal monster. the original was meant for rock. the x has a pretty nice swing.