TrogdortheBurninator

is that a huge whipper?

AT skis are tools for the mountains, splitboards are toys, tele falls somewhere in between. I've had all 3, and have consolidated to just AT. I will probably never ski as well as I snowboard, but it didnt take me too long to realize the limitations of my splitboard, and move over to the dark side for backcountry use. I may buy another splitboard when I get a real job, but for now I am totally happy to snowboard in resorts and ski in the backcountry. I may have liked Tele more if my boots fit, but the classic duckbill still has way more limitations for climbing. Plus, tele is f'in hard compared to downhill or snowboarding. Snowboard boots are the worst of all for climbing (hardboots seem to eliminate any benefit of snowboarding in the first place).

Matt's "Jacob's Ladder" route has some easy slab pitches to start, but after that the climbing is quite varied. Dreamer also has a bunch of non-slab climbing.

I think I know where the bottom ones are from.

how about a magnuson park pub club. spread around the gas/time expense to the westside folks.

Orbit might not be the best for a 5.8, but not 5.9 leader. It has some pretty engaging climbing on it. Outerspace is probably easier and safer for a new climber. Till broad daylight to the kone would be another darrington option. SW Rib of SEWS at WA pass is an OK route for 5.8 NF Burgundy Spire is pretty great

doubles of 3 small nuts hardly seems like a lot of extra weight.

I think Off is on to something

Outrageous looking climbing. Nice work!!!

I know it is a volcano, but there is sill skiing down to paradise from muir. We skied one of the chutes down to the nisqually yesterday, and it was in great shape.

Record changes hands back again: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=626030

no fixed cam in OW. W/out #6 you will run out 40+' on secure 5.9 OW.

Matts website

Trip: Dragontail Peak - Backbone Ridge Date: 6/21/2008 Trip Report: Soft seasonal snow on approach traverse and glacier descent. Scramble is mostly snow free, with just a small (4') unavoidable patch at the start of the 5th class. Rest of route is snow free right to the summit. Bugs seemed to be starting to get worse at the lake. words and pictures: http://zclipped.com/?p=16 Gear Notes: Cams Blue TCU to #3 camalot, #5 C4, #5 old style camalot, two hand size DMMs, set of nuts, ice axe left crampons at lake. Approach Notes: Traverse to highest obvious ledge system. A few glide cracks showing, but easily navigated. Walk off is snow free to glacier saddle, soft snow from there down. Aasgard is mix of snow and scree.

you've got some awesome photos there Dave. nice work!

this seems like a positive thread.

there are no runouts on the lower slab. it is easily simul climbed if you are comfortable at the grade.

I've got meteor iii and ecrin rock too. Hardly ever touch the ecrin anymore, especially not while craggyn.

if you are looking for a well protected a sport climb, how about condorphamine addiction?

what an awesome day trip, with tons of great beta and a bit of excess excitement.

Given your apparent passion for the topic, perhaps there is some reason for concern, but why the absolute reluctance to provide any relevant information for readers? If you have facts or information, share it. If you want to speculate what you think is happening, share that. So far you have been very non-specific in your claims. Not sure how you expect people to get involved if you won't tell us why we should get involved.

http://www.gunks.com/index.php?pageid=67&pagenum=1&smGroup=2&smID=4

the climber is using half ropes in what is called double rope technique. Typically alternating pieces of gear are clipped so that if a rope is severed, you have a back up. There are lots of other advantages and disadvantages too that I'm sure a quick google search would bring up.

you went right after the short crack? Both CAG and Nelson say to go left.

The tracks were gone, but I can imagine it was a great ski run. What I cant imagine is how much it must have sucked to descend below the snow in ski boots.