TrogdortheBurninator

Nice work. Glad to see that Mark is all healed up and back where he belongs in the mountain loop.

I wonder when the last time was somebody climbed frenchman's and had it feel reasonably safe (ie, something other than a shell of aerated ice over fast running water). I thought in an older thread somebody said it used to form up nice and solid. Nevertheless, a striking character building climb, but not one I'd repeat without better conditions. edit: nevermind, was thinking of this thread and this quote, which I had totally backwards. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/764127/2 "When I lived back in Ellensburg as a young college student, I remember climbing Frenchmen's once a bit after Ellensburg, WA made the news as being the coldest town in the lower 48 states of America for five days straight. I think it got down to -26F one of the nights. Frenchmen's was still hollow at the top and running underneath. With that kind of cold and lots of irrigation runoff, Eastern Washington was so huge, that you'd never even contemplate going to Banff or Norway."

Even the lighter Exped downmat 7 is way warmer and more comfortable than the prolite 4. I ran into leaking issues at the valve on some of the older ones, but the newest ones with the integrated pump are so far much more bombproof. With the leak risk of any inflatable, I'd probably want to have some sort of backup pad (maybe just a backpack bivy pad and rope), and definitely bring along the repair kit.

Typically use umbilicals for alpine climbing (alpinedave style), but left them on the ground yesterday thinking I wouldnt be leading any hardish pitches. Ended up leading some thin ice and mixed, and found that I didnt really like not having the umbilicals, as the fear of a dropped tool is disconcerting. I dont mind so much on pure ice with solid sticks. Anyhow, lesson learned and I'll keep em on me in the future.

FYI, sierra trading post currently has a 30% off coupon, bring the price of nuptses to $250. Quite a few sizes still. http://www.sierratradingpost.com/p/4282,2063T_La-Sportiva-Nuptse-Mountaineering-Boots-Waterproof-Insulated-For-Men.html

http://www.outdoorresearch.com/site/m_s_alibi_jacket.html I got one of these a few weeks ago (used for a few days of skiing, ice climbing, alpine climbing), and it is definitely the best softshell (of the 10 or so I own/owned) that I've used. It is a hybrid. Super breathable underarms and on back. A bit warmer in the core. A bit more waterproof on the shoulders/hood. Has a sweet balaclava under-helmet hood thingy. So far, very impressed.

John, have you used the new Fusions on ice? How are they?

OMG, you must work in a shop....

what if you want to climb a moderate route, then ski something easy (or the same route if you've got the goods). Like Lib Ridge -> Emmons N. Ridge Baker -> Coleman Doesnt seem that unlikely. There isn't really a good solution. I tried the Nuptses. They didnt fit well on my feet or in my bindings. YMMV. I have noticed a few places closing them out lately though. Jlag, so you thought snowboard boots were as good as climbing or AT boots when you wore them on cooper spur?

jlag, the point isnt that it cant be done, just that it can't be done well. Splitboarding entails far more compromise than AT. Some folks may be ok with that compromise, but many are not. For split boarding, there is not a commercially available system that allows the use of soft boots, while providing the necessary sole rigidity for more serious climbing.

Seems there was still a bit of not-spray left in the thread.

Where'd the rest of the thread go?

I guess that I would just choose the most efficient tool, and although I ski much worse than I snowboard, on longer tours the efficiency and climbing ability of AT gear seems to more than compensate for my inability to ski. Even if you are rocking mt plates and hardboots, when it comes to changeovers, traverses, and rolling terrain, I have a hard time imaging split gear ever catching up to AT. Maybe one day I'll be proven wrong and I'll buy another split.

You do realize the original topic was about snowboard mountaineering, right? Split boards are fine as a toy for lapping roadside lines, but any role in mountaineering seems contrived from my personal experience.

I often wonder if Jeremy Jones wasnt a professional snowboarder (i.e. his job), how long ago would he have abandoned the split in favor of skis for his style of adventures. It just seems so impractical to do the things he does on a split. Then again, the lines are amazing.

I thought that at one point on splitboard.com, somebody posted some burton soft boots that a cobbler installed a mountaineering vibram sole on. I guess if you wanted the best compromise of modest climbing ability, with soft boot feel, that would probably be it.

After finding myself in the same spot a few seasons back, I came to the conclusion that the only solution is to buy AT skis. Hard boots on a snowboard is so far detached from the snowboarding that i enjoy, that I'd rather just ski. Snowboards/splitboards are not mountaineering tools. I dont really see that changing anytime soon.

FYI, that review is for the original monster (pure dry tool) not the more versatile x-monster. In general I like my x monsters. They swing well and have a comfy grip. The springy shaft is a bit odd torquing on mixed terrain, but that could be a personal preference issue. I have used them for a fair amount of ice, mixed, and alpine and am generally pleased. The picks could be a bit more delicate, but that would give up some durability. I am still often drawn to some of the newer leashless tools (nomic or new fusions), but I'm not sure if it would really make a big difference in my climbing. The x-monster actually has some benefits over some other tools given that it has a semi-usable hammer, spike, and good umbilical clip-in. The x monster also plunges remarkably well in soft snow (not sure how tubular mixed tools would compare).

My cholatse's climb great and are super light for the warmth. They are pretty narrow though. Certainly narrower than the Kayland ice (only kayland i've tried on).

I bought a previous edition of this one when I was learning. Seemed good at the time. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0899974422

Wow Mark, glad to hear things weren't worse considering. Hopefully you can have a nice fast recovery and get back to gardening routes in D'town. Kudos to Stephen too!

Very, very sad. RIP

Renton?

I wouldn't sweat it too much. The first gendarme pitch is fairly easy for the grade. It is an excellent pitch, but I don't recall ever climbing anything particularly similar. It is more or less a series of jammable or underclingable roofs separated by excellent rests. The 2nd pitch is typical 5.9 OW, but only hard for a short distance. If you are comfortable on any of the classic 9s around (godzilla, princely, inca roads, etc), I wouldn't expect any trouble at all.

yes