TrogdortheBurninator

Awesome!

likely the same one Doug is talking about. It is probably due out around the time as the Pata Nano Hoody. They have some similar stuff available now, but no hood on the light weights, and a slightly heavier shell fabric.

For pure cracks, seems that tieton has a lot to offer. I think the OS crack still has to take the cake though given the awesome position and length (300' of 5.6-5.7 w/ 5' of 5.9). Also, it seems that most folks jam that thing for pleasure and security, even if it is unnecessary with all the chicken heads. Similar to Klahanie I suppose.

I've got a nifty new Rab thingy that weighs 12oz or so. Superlight shell, but reasonably durable. Primaloft one throughout. Packs in its own pocket, with a crab loop. Has a hood, but it is a bit small for over helmet, so usually has to go under. Also has no zippers on pockets, which saves weight, but makes it less ideal for spin drift etc. As a rock or alpine rock jacket, it seems to be the bees knees. It replaced my OR fraction (previous generation), which was also great. Fraction is a bit heavier, but has an over-helmet hood and pocket zippers, making it more serviceable for four seasons. My fraction could fold into its chest pocket, but wasnt designed too, so zipper was a pain to close and it didnt have a dedicated clip in point. Some things might have changed with the current model. I think Fraction is PL sport, but it always seemed remarkably warm for the weight. I've also had a few super-light down sweaters, but in general I don't find them quite as useful as the synthetics for this weight range.

how can you be off route in a sea of choose-your-own-adventure knobs?

i had one of the bigger ones (#4 camalot equiv i think), used it a few times, but it felt incredibly unstable. It was very light weight, but the trade off didnt seem worth it.

loose fitting rock shoes would be fine, but I prefer shoes. There are no chimneys and such, so it really isnt a big deal to clip some shoes on you harness, or have the second carry a small pack.

both canary p1 and s. face jello are on the stiff side of 5.8, but both are awesome pitches. you could probably link up some downhill routes with a trip up givlers (at least dog leg on alphabet)

catapult-canary on castle is awesome Orbit (not a linkup, but great)

a few years ago, tendon was at the trade show, presumably looking for direct distribution, dont know where that went. I've got a harness of theirs that is great. I also have a 50m 10.5mm rope, but I never opened it. I have also owned an older (~7 years ago) Lanex branded 9.8mm that was dirt cheap and lasted amazingly. Also have the same Monster 7.8s as Doug, and will almost certainly buy another set when they wear out.

the crack is not 5.8. most people who say"be solid on 5.9 and leave the 6 behind are probably solid well into the 10s. for most folks, the 6 is basically mandatory. 5 is unneeded. 4 is optional. 3 on down is good to have.

apparently eric8 never wears a shirt at index:

Lemolo Mox Last Year??? http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=836613

I've got one. One of my favorites. Hood is helmet compatible. Very warm for a 14oz jacket. Comparable to a giant hug from jesus????

Nice Jeremy! BTW, you left WY off your list.

Volant is definitely one of my favorite pieces I own. Wish the hood was permanent and not the silly buttons, but it fits over a helmet with ease. The awesome pockets more than make up for the drawbacks to the hood. Would love the volant even more if hood was improved, and a lighter shell fabric was used on shoulders and hood (maybe that is just mine though, and lighter fabrics are already available). Dane, the thing I find most lacking in your review is details. Why not be more explicit about what you liked in the best jackets, and didnt like in the worst jackets? You listed some of the criteria that were important to you, but you didnt really address how any of the jackets met or failed to meet those criteria. like this: why not a quick "why", as it pertains to your criteria. you obviously are not required to do this, but if you are taking the time to do a review, it seems fair to readers and manufacturers to give real feedback, rather than leave them guessing as to why you didnt like such and such product.

quick quote for all the reading comp experts

sounds like you are off to a good start. for pure ice, starting out, I'd aim for a total of 6 16cms, 4 13 cms, 1 22 cm. maybe one more each of 13 and 16 if you like to err on the side of caution. note that 12 screws total often means only 8 lead screws (2 for each anchor). I prefer double ropes, but a single is fine, just add a tag line if you need longer raps.

not sure this question even warrants an answer.... WA has lots of mountains. Some of them are big. The comparison with CO makes no sense. 11,000' is more or less the mean altitude where skiing occurs in CO (give or take 2000'). In WA, sub 11,000' includes the whole state minus 3 summits. The relevant info on NWAC is basically above and below tree line. So, to extrapolate to the summit of rainier, take the alpine forecast for the Rainier area and assume more wind, colder temps, more snow. Then, when you get there, evaluate as you go. You could also try calling the MRNP rangers, or one of the guide services. It is a lot easier to extrapolate a detailed weather forecast to the summit of rainier (like NOAA), than it is something as localized as avy danger.

don't worry, it lives on in the google

ah, that makes sense

Looks like fun! in iron's pic, it looks like you guys are traversing into your couloir from much higher and further right than the line you drew. (below the next couloir to the right)

a range can have multiple possible traverses , so glacier traversing Stanhard to Torre is a traverse, but is not a repeat of the Garibotti/Haley traverse. I think there is also a contrast between a technical climbing traverse, and a skiing/hiking traverse. On a technical climbing traverse, it would seem appropriate to tag all summits. On a ski/hike, maybe not. Honesty in reporting is probably the most important part.

Nice classic tour! Never sure how to represent the grade of mean green. Is it a real 4, a sandbagged 4, an easy 5, a real 5, etc. Crux felt pretty tough to me a month ago. Hopefully I'll get back up there before the season melts away.

Nice! I made a few trips out there myself, failing once from inexperience, and once from weather/conditions. Was there good ice on the steep lower face?