TrogdortheBurninator

rappelling (standard descent) silent running takes two ropes. I think there is a mystery down climb also, but I have no idea where it goes.

silent running in darrington. fault - catapult - canary on castle rock in LW Orbit in LW (prob better with single set than outerspace, although you still have to build belays, which takes gear.)

everest kitchen (indian, tibetan, nepalese) in lake city = good

ur scienctifik methods r sound. Kan i taech thm in my sciense clas? They shood fiht real nice after lessuhns on creashunism.

-Obama oh no, the horror.

It forms a huge tongue of ice at the top in winter.

Hi Mark, I believe I saw you on saturday in the bluffs. I thought I recognized you from the WCC slide show you gave last year (??). Apparently you guys just made the wrong choice of routes. We climbed nothing but short approach 5 star (bourdon) moderate routes all weekend and waited in line only once. Mosquito - 10 min wait Phlegmish dance - 0 min wait Wonderland - 0 min wait Neat and cool - 0 min wait (entire crag was empty after we finished) Exasperator - 0 min wait Seasoned in the Sun - 0 min wait (well except for the rain squall we let pass) Merci Me - 0 min wait - we bailed cause of wetness Peasants route - 0 min wait - wet at start Centerfold - 0 min wait I think we just got very lucky with crowds.

What are your credentials again? Oh, I'm just a professional masturbater. As most graduate students in exercise science are.... Guess I just assumed somebody with "credentials" wouldn't spend so much time seeking exercise and PT advice from a climbing forum.

What are your credentials again?

I think the Pilan choice is pretty damn interesting from a strategy standpoint. It is analagous to final jeopardy. Often situations arise where playing safe guarantees a loss, while a big gamble might result in a bigger loss, but also gives a chance for victory. Given the choice between a guaranteed loss, and a chance of victory, you have to gamble for victory (duh). I suspect the McCain campaign acknowledged that a more conventional GOP running mate would virtually guarantee his loss. Pilan could very well make that loss bigger (hopefully ), but it might be the best chance he has to build excitement around an otherwise comparatively dull campaign.

http://vpilf.com/

I have sent multiple OK messages with mine. Some havent gone through, but I suspect it was mostly my impatience. One was used recently on rescues on dragontail and up near whistler. It seemed it did a good job alerting rescuers, although the reescuers seemed to lack an efficient response protocol.

how about squamish outlook for sat-sun?

The Daniel Glacier is the route in Nelson's Select guide. Although I think it only traverse the glacier. It is east of the lynch glacier.

woody is aid

I measured out my new ropes and they are 1-2 ft shorter than an older (5 yrs or so) uncut 60m of mine. With stretch, the new 7.8s probably rap at least as far as the old 9.8 did. I do not think this new rap route can be done with a 60 m rope as advertised. I put some decent beta on my website too. http://zclipped.com/?page_id=24

Thanks Bill. We were both pretty wiped by the top. Dehydration was my biggest issue I think. The guide who put the rap route in was climbing with Ines Papert and another strong local climber. They were very fast for a team of three. Like I said, there is a chance our ropes are not long enough. I don't want to place blame, just give a heads up.

There were definitely no intermediate stations. Just a bunch of 32-35m raps.

Took a 3 day trip to the Bugaboos last weekend (TR here: http://zclipped.com/ ). At the hut, the warden informed us of a new bolted single rope rappel route (30m raps) down the NW Buttress of S. Howser. On the summit of S. Howser, we ran in to one of the rappel route's installers. In exchange for letting his party rappel first, he gave us some beta on the rappel. We were shocked to find that our 60m rope failed to reach many of the anchors by as much as 20'. We were able to complete all rappels using our 2nd rope, but it was a bit frustrating given the beta we received. We were using brand new ropes, so it is possible they were not true to length (seems unlikely that two ropes would be short, as both 1/2 ropes are within 1' of each other). Be advised that this new rappel route may involve rappels longer than the advertised 30m. The new rappel route is otherwise very nice. It is not threatened by the large cornice form above, it crosses a smaller section of the bergshrund, it has relatively little loose rock, and it minimizes the chances of stuck ropes (there are some large rope eaters, but they did not pose a problem for us). A single 70m rope would be ideal for this new descent.

Damn Kurt, impressive!

http://www.firstascentpress.com/

WR Stuart?

Great TR Rad.

When did you buy Rob? I fear I'll be in a similar boat soon when we move out of our lake city townhome (hopefully no check at closing, but most likely losing money).

I'm pretty sure the trout in the icicle will take absolutely any fly you drift their way. I saw a few folks fishing above the road closure on my way to ida lake saturday. Looked like some nice holes up there. I suspect the closure will improve upper creek fishing.