TrogdortheBurninator

I have sent multiple OK messages with mine. Some havent gone through, but I suspect it was mostly my impatience. One was used recently on rescues on dragontail and up near whistler. It seemed it did a good job alerting rescuers, although the reescuers seemed to lack an efficient response protocol.

how about squamish outlook for sat-sun?

The Daniel Glacier is the route in Nelson's Select guide. Although I think it only traverse the glacier. It is east of the lynch glacier.

woody is aid

I measured out my new ropes and they are 1-2 ft shorter than an older (5 yrs or so) uncut 60m of mine. With stretch, the new 7.8s probably rap at least as far as the old 9.8 did. I do not think this new rap route can be done with a 60 m rope as advertised. I put some decent beta on my website too. http://zclipped.com/?page_id=24

Thanks Bill. We were both pretty wiped by the top. Dehydration was my biggest issue I think. The guide who put the rap route in was climbing with Ines Papert and another strong local climber. They were very fast for a team of three. Like I said, there is a chance our ropes are not long enough. I don't want to place blame, just give a heads up.

There were definitely no intermediate stations. Just a bunch of 32-35m raps.

Took a 3 day trip to the Bugaboos last weekend (TR here: http://zclipped.com/ ). At the hut, the warden informed us of a new bolted single rope rappel route (30m raps) down the NW Buttress of S. Howser. On the summit of S. Howser, we ran in to one of the rappel route's installers. In exchange for letting his party rappel first, he gave us some beta on the rappel. We were shocked to find that our 60m rope failed to reach many of the anchors by as much as 20'. We were able to complete all rappels using our 2nd rope, but it was a bit frustrating given the beta we received. We were using brand new ropes, so it is possible they were not true to length (seems unlikely that two ropes would be short, as both 1/2 ropes are within 1' of each other). Be advised that this new rappel route may involve rappels longer than the advertised 30m. The new rappel route is otherwise very nice. It is not threatened by the large cornice form above, it crosses a smaller section of the bergshrund, it has relatively little loose rock, and it minimizes the chances of stuck ropes (there are some large rope eaters, but they did not pose a problem for us). A single 70m rope would be ideal for this new descent.

Damn Kurt, impressive!

http://www.firstascentpress.com/

WR Stuart?

Great TR Rad.

When did you buy Rob? I fear I'll be in a similar boat soon when we move out of our lake city townhome (hopefully no check at closing, but most likely losing money).

I'm pretty sure the trout in the icicle will take absolutely any fly you drift their way. I saw a few folks fishing above the road closure on my way to ida lake saturday. Looked like some nice holes up there. I suspect the closure will improve upper creek fishing.

Porter, seems like your hijack was a bit different than wayne's post. I got the impression wayne wanted quality routes not in the current select guides, but with TR links. Maybe I am wrong.

grigri, cinch, et al. are auto locking reverso, guide, b-52, et al are autoblocking AFAIK

or just look for the previous bad partners thread that links all these stories

Is he making shadow puppets on her ass?

"Leaving Paradise at 4:20:08 a.m., O'Sullivan blitzed to Camp Muir, elevation 10,000 feet, in a blazing 1" hidden messages no third party timing i dont believe it

They don't seem to be as useful as their proponents claim - primarily from the difficulties of getting local rescuers to respond (which I can understand - "need help at point XYZ" is rather vague) I have a spot, and it is a bit discouraging to see how they are being handled in rescues. Hopefully local rescuers/authorities will develop more effective protocols for answering spot requests. It would certainly be nice if the device had direct messaging capabilities, but it is what it is for now. Regarding this guys companions, they are clearly douchebags.

Turns out, this actually was pretty ground breaking and insane: http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/potter_base_solos_the_eiger/

Condolences to the family and friends. http://wenatcheeworld.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20080808/NEWS04/448634810/1002

darrington climbing is mostly bolt protected, with occasional gear. You wont get much gear placing practice though. The popular routes have beefy bolted belays. Not sure what grades you are looking for, but great northern slab at index has bolted belays. In fact, many routes at index, of all grades, have bolted belays.

I was there yesterday too. Too bad we missed you guys. place was hot and empty.

For a few weeks a year you will have ice within 1-4 hrs. For a few months you will have ice within 5-6 hrs. For half the year you will have ice within 10-14 hrs.