TrogdortheBurninator

Porter, seems like your hijack was a bit different than wayne's post. I got the impression wayne wanted quality routes not in the current select guides, but with TR links. Maybe I am wrong.

grigri, cinch, et al. are auto locking reverso, guide, b-52, et al are autoblocking AFAIK

or just look for the previous bad partners thread that links all these stories

Is he making shadow puppets on her ass?

"Leaving Paradise at 4:20:08 a.m., O'Sullivan blitzed to Camp Muir, elevation 10,000 feet, in a blazing 1" hidden messages no third party timing i dont believe it

They don't seem to be as useful as their proponents claim - primarily from the difficulties of getting local rescuers to respond (which I can understand - "need help at point XYZ" is rather vague) I have a spot, and it is a bit discouraging to see how they are being handled in rescues. Hopefully local rescuers/authorities will develop more effective protocols for answering spot requests. It would certainly be nice if the device had direct messaging capabilities, but it is what it is for now. Regarding this guys companions, they are clearly douchebags.

Turns out, this actually was pretty ground breaking and insane: http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/potter_base_solos_the_eiger/

Condolences to the family and friends. http://wenatcheeworld.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20080808/NEWS04/448634810/1002

darrington climbing is mostly bolt protected, with occasional gear. You wont get much gear placing practice though. The popular routes have beefy bolted belays. Not sure what grades you are looking for, but great northern slab at index has bolted belays. In fact, many routes at index, of all grades, have bolted belays.

I was there yesterday too. Too bad we missed you guys. place was hot and empty.

For a few weeks a year you will have ice within 1-4 hrs. For a few months you will have ice within 5-6 hrs. For half the year you will have ice within 10-14 hrs.

I prefer to call it bandelier style. Much more manly sounding.

Another note on nevermind: The block you stand on when clipping the hanging chain in the middle of the wall is a bit wobbly. This thing is full on belayer slayer, 8+ ft^3 of rock. Seemed looser now than in the past. Rad: I also thought the clipping jug on the 10a was loser than ever when I climbed it on saturday.

nevermind and neverland are different crags

no need for custom: http://www.backcountry.com/store/STE0022/Sterling-Fusion-Nano-Single-Rope-92mm.html?mv_pc=r126&CMP_ID=SH_FRO001&CMP_SKU=STE0022

Awesome Paul!!!

Are you talking retrobolting (i.e. adding new bolts), or just replacing the old bolts?

barney's rubble is TR heaven. 5.0 slab on the east (i think) face. 5.easy crack on the river side.

I think it is definitely worth it to get a high sensitivity receiver. I also think the mapping functions are pretty useful. I have a vista HCX that I can recommend. Delorme has a new model coming out soon that looks to combine the best features of nearly all other models.

anybody interested in climbing tomorrow. weather looks ok most of the day. thinking something near darrington(total soul?), or hwy 2 (index, static, nason). PM if interested.

I saw a prototype a year or so ago and it seemed pretty cool. The price seems high, but it seems in line with their other offerings. If it was less than regular thermarests or z-rests, no one would buy those. The price is also in line with downmats, but half the weight (good) and half the R value (bad).

the layback start takes a small cam (yellow TCU I think), it flares inward just a bit, so err on the slightly bigger side.

ropes arent cheap. i think the metolius ropes are twin/half.

There are lots of ropes rated dual (Twin - Double/Half) and triple (Twin - Double/Half - Single). Buy those if you want options.

I usually try to avoid clipping the lowest link of a chain so that it is easier to clean and thread the rope later. If the anchor has just one ring, I try and clip the bolts. If the anchor has many chain links, either the bolt or any of the non-end chain links are fine. If the rings are aluminum, I definitely prefer to clip the bolt.