John Frieh
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Everything posted by John Frieh
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[TR] SmiffistaniRawks - Free(ish) Lunch & Fishtaco Dihedral 1/29/2011
John Frieh replied to ivan's topic in Oregon Cascades
Free Lunch is good. Following the second pitch is the crux IMO as you get to downclimb that shit chimney but beyond that a fine day out on an "unselected" -
Bad experience at Feathered Friends
John Frieh replied to rocketparrotlet's topic in Local Gear Shops
"It's not the consumer's job to know what they want." Steve Jobs -
Someone should buy Ivan that rainsuit. That or Plaidman. I'd chip in 10 bucks to the cause
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Weight Loss Goals for This Spring
John Frieh replied to telemarker's topic in Fitness and Nutrition Forum
To steal and modify slightly the original great quote: "Nothing tastes as good as redpointing feels" -
Weight Loss Goals for This Spring
John Frieh replied to telemarker's topic in Fitness and Nutrition Forum
"Mentally contrasting a desired future with present reality leads to the emergence of binding goals with consecutive goal striving and goal attainment, as long as chances of success are perceived to be high. To the contrary, mentally elaborating either the desired future only (indulging) or the present reality only (dwelling) leads to moderate goal commitment, even if chances of success look promising." -
Nice dude. Looks like a great line
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All RuMR can see when he looks down is the top of kevbone's head
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http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Ice+clipper
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Regarding the new Petzl NOMIC and ERGO ice tools
John Frieh replied to Justin-at-Petzl's topic in The Gear Critic
As far as I can tell they fixed them same day they received them and shipped them out the following the day. The time in transit is the largest contributor to the time. -
Regarding the new Petzl NOMIC and ERGO ice tools
John Frieh replied to Justin-at-Petzl's topic in The Gear Critic
Just got my tools back yesterday. Quick turn around and solid fix. Props to Petzl for making the best of the situation -
- 40' fall onto chockstone slung with dyneema sling. ~20' above chockstone; 40' in the system so factor 1. Broke all ice clippers in fall. - 15' fall onto 16 cm screw with yates screamer. ~8' above ice screw; ~30' rope in system so < factor 1. Screamer ripped 2/3 way through - 10' fall onto 16 cm screw with BD quickdraw. ~5' above ice screw; ~80' rope in system so < factor 1. Felt screw hit air pocket going in so approximately 2/3 of threads were in ice. - Falls 1 and 2 were onto a single rope; fall 3 was onto a pair of doubles I carry 3 screamers on alpine routes and upto 6 for ice climbing. First screw or two always gets one (unless it's rock gear) and any sketchy pieces along the way.
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Closet Cleanout -Tele skis, gloves, etc
John Frieh replied to DetachedFlake's topic in The Yard Sale
I'll take the bavaclava and monocular. Pm sent -
I like this thread. 5 stars!
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Anybody been into Strobach recently? Pics?
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Good to see at least a few of you punters still have your teeth
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Any pictures of either the pencil or the line to the left of drury?
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Thanks all! Appreciate the shout out Make no doubt about it... it was Roj and Dylan's achievements that won that award. I have no delusion that I had much to do with our team being selected as a recipient. @Porter: as long as I can remember they have been listing each team's objective. Though the possibility of being scooped exists generally the objectives are big enough that often a portion of the climbing community is aware of it. Anybody else headed to the Ruth this year? Give me a shout if Ill see any of you in either Talkeetna or on the glacier!
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[TR] Cody, WY & Hyalite, MT - Various 1/9/2011
John Frieh replied to Tom_Sjolseth's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Nice work guys. Slow turning is a very rare forming Cody classic. Well done. -
Trip: Strobach - The Watchtower Date: 1/8/2011 Trip Report: For Mr Alex Krawakrik: many thanks for the Washington Ice guidebook. Much respect. Cheers to Mr Dave Burdick. We should go climbing together more often dude. What else? Dave and I climbed Ice Dreams (excellent shape) first before trekking over to the Watchtower Area. On the way we counted two unclimbed lines (likely 3/3+). We also counted at least three unclimbed ice routes in the Watchtower area. Unholy Baptism looks rad also (props to Nate and Colin). I guess we should have climbed faster so that we would have had more time for some of the other lines Motherlode Watchtower Area The Watchtower (yes someone else named it before we climbed it) Sizing it up Pitch 1 Pitch 2 Approach Notes: Snowshoe packed trail to Motherlode currently exists. Very fast travel.
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Intel did 40 billion in revenue in 2010 not 35.
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Better than sex? That? Words cant convey how sorry I feel for you.
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I have one in excellent shape. PM me and we can talk price
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Nice work team. Solid effort The place to stay in Cody IMO is the Super 8 assuming you either have AAA or are comfortable asking for a multi night discount. Got any more full size pictures of the artery that show the base of it?
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[TR] colorado - classics (?) 12/20/2010
John Frieh replied to John Frieh's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Yeah: I'd agree with Banff expect many of the benchmark climbs are also often picked out by the time word reaches us down here. I can think of a number of people that fancy themselves WI5+/6- leaders just because they hooked their way up Nemesis at the end of the season... But yeah: Banff is legit assuming one can recognize and discern when a route is either super fat or super picked out. Some of the Cody stuff can be sandbagged but a lot of it is spot on in my mind. Maybe that's why I still consider myself a solid WI4 leader