John Frieh

Trip: Mt Huntington - Nettle-Quirk Date: 3/19/2011 Summary: On March 18th, Jason Stuckey (Fairbanks, Alaska) and I, John Frieh (Portland, OR), flew from Talkeetna to the Tokositna Glacier below Mt. Huntington. On March 19th we climbed to the summit of Mt. Huntington via the West Face Couloir (Nettle-Quirk), and descended via the same route, in just under 23 hours round trip (returning to camp on March 20th around 5 am). I believe this was the second ascent of Mt Huntington during the winter season. We found the route to be nearly all glacial ice which made for a slower than hoped for ascent as well as some amazing calf pump. Nevertheless we were pleased to complete the route to the summit and back in under 24 hours. Finally, Paul of Talkeetna Air Taxi picked us up around 9:30 am on the 20th making for less than 48 hours total in the range. Smash and Grab. Mount Huntington courtesy of Talkeetna Air Taxi Itinerary: March 17: PDX -> SEA -> ANC -> Talkeetna March 18: Paul/TAT flew us to the East Fork of the Tokostina Glacier (~11 am). Quickly set up camp and then scouted the lower portion of Nettle-Quirk. Returned to camp. March 19/March 20: Mt Huntington summit via the West Face Couloir (Nettle-Quirk). Approximately 23 hours (6 am on the 19th -> 5 am on the 20th) bergschrund to bergschrund. Paul picked us up at 9:30 am on the 20th. Details: - Though Jason lives in Fairbanks and has climbed all over the great state of Alaska this was his first trip into the Alaska Range. By chance I met Jason less than a month ago in the Anchorage Airport on my way home from Valdez. I can't thank him enough for taking a chance to go climbing with a complete stranger. - This trip likely would never have happened if it not for the excellent beta that Paul Roderick and Mark Westman provided on conditions and their opinion of the weather forecast. Mark especially has been a great source of AK beta for me over the past few years and I owe him many beers for that. Do me a favor and buy him one next time you drink with him - I also owe Colin Haley and Jed Brown thanks for the beta from their ascent of Mt Huntington in 2007, the first winter ascent of Mt. Huntington. Buy them beers also - Finally many thanks and much respect to Gym Jones for all that they have provided me. I consider their guidance and perspective one of the most valuable tools I have as a climber. Finally: the climb March 18: TAT is so cool they let us bivy in their office I let Jason have shotgun as it was his first time into the range Room with a view Crossing the schrund to recon what we would do in the dark the next morning March 19: Soloing thin slab early in the morning Glacial ice: hope your tools are sharp! Near the top of the couloir Traverse pitches Pull your balaclava down for the photo on 3 Looking back from the summit at the summit ridge March 20: 48 hours later: back in Talkeetna Approach Notes: Talkeetna Air Taxi

Thanks dudes. I'll try to get a TR with pics done tonight or tomorrow. Here is one of my favorites:

If you came up Bedal Creek you had to see it. Come on Tom.. make with the photos! :laf:

Goddamit. Well done team. Very impressive... I hope one of your TRs win the March Trip Report Prize

:laf: Awesome! We actually considering bring the B.O.B. on that trip but dont have a ski attachment so we opted for the carry.

The last decade of FAs @ Stobach? Sounds like a lot of photos of Portland, OR based climbers :laf: Sounds like a great show! Do you have to RSVP to attend? Or just to show photos? Looking forward to it

Email sent

I did and I was mistaken: I have a BD micro hammer that needs a good home. Yikes: Ill get a hold of you

:laf:

No but they get pissed if you add climbing holds

Dude: grab Ruderman and get your butt to AK. Prime time to be there!

Those should all be huge but if you want call Northern Lights and ask to talk to someone regarding ice conditions in the canyon.

I think I have one... I need to check when I get home

Thanks for the update

Thanks all. @Schmitz & Mark: got some beta from a local on BIG rigs that come in every October. Pencil it in dudes @Gene: you know it! @Anastasia: nice work in CAN. You're representing the PDX ice climbing contingent quite well this winter

I needed it for the sketchy driving!

Trip: Valdez, AK - Classics Date: 2/3/2011 Trip Report Summary: 2/24: PDX -> ANC -> Valdez, AK. Climbed Hung Jury (1p; 55 meters) and Fang Gully (group solo; 90 meters) 2/25: Bridalveil Falls (4p; 185 meters) + Simple Twist of Fate (2p; 75 meters) 2/26: Keystone Greensteps (4p; 200 meters) 2/27: Valdez, AK -> ANC -> PDX First and foremost many many thanks to Mackenzie and Eric for their gracious hospitality. Also thanks to wfinley and Jake_Gano for taking the time to answer all my dumb AK beta questions I can't find the words to convey how rad Valdez, AK is. Consider this: - 200 meter routes 3 minutes from the car - we started climbing no earlier than 8:30 am each day and not once got scooped by another party. - in fact we only saw 5 other ice climbers the entire trip. FIVE. - the routes we climbed (which are 3 minutes from the car) receive so little traffic not one was picked out. We even had to make v threads to get off (if that tells you how rarely these get climbed). - it never dropped below 10 degrees during the day the entire weekend. But yeah: I hear Canada is great this time of year. Seriously though: make it a point to climb ice in Valdez, AK at least once in your lifetime. Let me know if you need a partner. Get motivated: Alasak Ice Climbing Enough prose... some pictures: Day 1: Hung Jury and Fang Gully. Photo taken from the car. Crazy wind shaped ice formations on Hung Jury Scoops, Umbrellas, and Bells the size of cars Skander on Fang Gully Day 2: Bridalveil Falls and Simple Twist of Fate. Photo taken from the car. Following pitch 1 Following pitch 2 Marcus leading pitch 3 the "Killer Pillar" Pitch 2 of Simple Twist of Fate Day 2: Keystone Greensteps. Photo taken from the car. Marcus tackling a very technical pitch 1 Pitch 2 Pitch 4: Now you see me, now you don't Gear Notes: clown car Approach Notes: Alaska Air

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Roll call pillow biters: finally your chance to get paid to spray about climbing! See the attached pdf for details 4376.pdf

Thanks all. Claiming all the leads because of my forgetfulness would have been lame. I did the old school Jack Tackle trick and wore extra hats.

Trip: Cody - Classics Date: 2/5/2011 Trip Report: Trip Report Summary: 2/4: PDX -> BIL 2/5: BIL -> Cody; Cabin Fever (1p) + Wyoming Wave (4p); Too Cold To Fire (2p) 2/6: All 6 pitches of Broken Hearts + Carotid Artery (1p) 2/7: Moratorium (2p); Cody -> BIL A little late on the TR but what can I say... I've been busy surfing. Good times with Zac, Michiel and Dave. All our crampons apparently dont fit because the link bar moves, at least 2 of us had down belay (or is it bivy?) jackets with removable hoods no less and I forgot my helmet... it's amazing we climbed anything at all! Our pathetic efforts in pictures :laf: Cabin Fever Somewhere along Wyoming Wave Too Cold To Fire Broken Hearts Dave earning his My Only Valentine merit badge (5th pitch of BH) Count the screws: Zac crusing the 5th pitch of Broken Hearts (My Only Valentine) Broken Hearts 6th pitch in fat conditions: legit WI5 Legit The Carotid Artery: does this thing ever touch down? If half of it falls down that means you have half of it left to climb Dealing with roofs: Crampon Fit or Core Strength? Moratorium Moratorium Second Pitch Gear Notes: Helmets work best when you dont leave them in PDX. Approach Notes: alaska air

Ergo

AWESOME! Well except is that your truck!?!? DUDE! Looking forward to getting back out there soon

There is nothing steep about the south side of Hood. "steep" and "hard" are relative to your ability level. Just because you aren't comfortable doing something doesn't mean everyone else should feel the same way.