John Frieh

Trip: Valdez, AK - Classics Date: 2/3/2011 Trip Report Summary: 2/24: PDX -> ANC -> Valdez, AK. Climbed Hung Jury (1p; 55 meters) and Fang Gully (group solo; 90 meters) 2/25: Bridalveil Falls (4p; 185 meters) + Simple Twist of Fate (2p; 75 meters) 2/26: Keystone Greensteps (4p; 200 meters) 2/27: Valdez, AK -> ANC -> PDX First and foremost many many thanks to Mackenzie and Eric for their gracious hospitality. Also thanks to wfinley and Jake_Gano for taking the time to answer all my dumb AK beta questions I can't find the words to convey how rad Valdez, AK is. Consider this: - 200 meter routes 3 minutes from the car - we started climbing no earlier than 8:30 am each day and not once got scooped by another party. - in fact we only saw 5 other ice climbers the entire trip. FIVE. - the routes we climbed (which are 3 minutes from the car) receive so little traffic not one was picked out. We even had to make v threads to get off (if that tells you how rarely these get climbed). - it never dropped below 10 degrees during the day the entire weekend. But yeah: I hear Canada is great this time of year. Seriously though: make it a point to climb ice in Valdez, AK at least once in your lifetime. Let me know if you need a partner. Get motivated: Alasak Ice Climbing Enough prose... some pictures: Day 1: Hung Jury and Fang Gully. Photo taken from the car. Crazy wind shaped ice formations on Hung Jury Scoops, Umbrellas, and Bells the size of cars Skander on Fang Gully Day 2: Bridalveil Falls and Simple Twist of Fate. Photo taken from the car. Following pitch 1 Following pitch 2 Marcus leading pitch 3 the "Killer Pillar" Pitch 2 of Simple Twist of Fate Day 2: Keystone Greensteps. Photo taken from the car. Marcus tackling a very technical pitch 1 Pitch 2 Pitch 4: Now you see me, now you don't Gear Notes: clown car Approach Notes: Alaska Air

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Roll call pillow biters: finally your chance to get paid to spray about climbing! See the attached pdf for details 4376.pdf

Thanks all. Claiming all the leads because of my forgetfulness would have been lame. I did the old school Jack Tackle trick and wore extra hats.

Trip: Cody - Classics Date: 2/5/2011 Trip Report: Trip Report Summary: 2/4: PDX -> BIL 2/5: BIL -> Cody; Cabin Fever (1p) + Wyoming Wave (4p); Too Cold To Fire (2p) 2/6: All 6 pitches of Broken Hearts + Carotid Artery (1p) 2/7: Moratorium (2p); Cody -> BIL A little late on the TR but what can I say... I've been busy surfing. Good times with Zac, Michiel and Dave. All our crampons apparently dont fit because the link bar moves, at least 2 of us had down belay (or is it bivy?) jackets with removable hoods no less and I forgot my helmet... it's amazing we climbed anything at all! Our pathetic efforts in pictures :laf: Cabin Fever Somewhere along Wyoming Wave Too Cold To Fire Broken Hearts Dave earning his My Only Valentine merit badge (5th pitch of BH) Count the screws: Zac crusing the 5th pitch of Broken Hearts (My Only Valentine) Broken Hearts 6th pitch in fat conditions: legit WI5 Legit The Carotid Artery: does this thing ever touch down? If half of it falls down that means you have half of it left to climb Dealing with roofs: Crampon Fit or Core Strength? Moratorium Moratorium Second Pitch Gear Notes: Helmets work best when you dont leave them in PDX. Approach Notes: alaska air

Ergo

AWESOME! Well except is that your truck!?!? DUDE! Looking forward to getting back out there soon

There is nothing steep about the south side of Hood. "steep" and "hard" are relative to your ability level. Just because you aren't comfortable doing something doesn't mean everyone else should feel the same way.

Free Lunch is good. Following the second pitch is the crux IMO as you get to downclimb that shit chimney but beyond that a fine day out on an "unselected"

"It's not the consumer's job to know what they want." Steve Jobs

To steal and modify slightly the original great quote: "Nothing tastes as good as redpointing feels"

"Mentally contrasting a desired future with present reality leads to the emergence of binding goals with consecutive goal striving and goal attainment, as long as chances of success are perceived to be high. To the contrary, mentally elaborating either the desired future only (indulging) or the present reality only (dwelling) leads to moderate goal commitment, even if chances of success look promising."

Nice dude. Looks like a great line

All RuMR can see when he looks down is the top of kevbone's head

Nice work Scott! Keep getting out!

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Ice+clipper

As far as I can tell they fixed them same day they received them and shipped them out the following the day. The time in transit is the largest contributor to the time.

Just got my tools back yesterday. Quick turn around and solid fix. Props to Petzl for making the best of the situation

- 40' fall onto chockstone slung with dyneema sling. ~20' above chockstone; 40' in the system so factor 1. Broke all ice clippers in fall. - 15' fall onto 16 cm screw with yates screamer. ~8' above ice screw; ~30' rope in system so < factor 1. Screamer ripped 2/3 way through - 10' fall onto 16 cm screw with BD quickdraw. ~5' above ice screw; ~80' rope in system so < factor 1. Felt screw hit air pocket going in so approximately 2/3 of threads were in ice. - Falls 1 and 2 were onto a single rope; fall 3 was onto a pair of doubles I carry 3 screamers on alpine routes and upto 6 for ice climbing. First screw or two always gets one (unless it's rock gear) and any sketchy pieces along the way.

Anybody been into Strobach recently? Pics?

Good to see at least a few of you punters still have your teeth

Any pictures of either the pencil or the line to the left of drury?

Thanks all! Appreciate the shout out Make no doubt about it... it was Roj and Dylan's achievements that won that award. I have no delusion that I had much to do with our team being selected as a recipient. @Porter: as long as I can remember they have been listing each team's objective. Though the possibility of being scooped exists generally the objectives are big enough that often a portion of the climbing community is aware of it. Anybody else headed to the Ruth this year? Give me a shout if Ill see any of you in either Talkeetna or on the glacier!

Nice work guys. Slow turning is a very rare forming Cody classic. Well done.

Trip: Strobach - The Watchtower Date: 1/8/2011 Trip Report: For Mr Alex Krawakrik: many thanks for the Washington Ice guidebook. Much respect. Cheers to Mr Dave Burdick. We should go climbing together more often dude. What else? Dave and I climbed Ice Dreams (excellent shape) first before trekking over to the Watchtower Area. On the way we counted two unclimbed lines (likely 3/3+). We also counted at least three unclimbed ice routes in the Watchtower area. Unholy Baptism looks rad also (props to Nate and Colin). I guess we should have climbed faster so that we would have had more time for some of the other lines Motherlode Watchtower Area The Watchtower (yes someone else named it before we climbed it) Sizing it up Pitch 1 Pitch 2 Approach Notes: Snowshoe packed trail to Motherlode currently exists. Very fast travel.