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John Frieh

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Everything posted by John Frieh

  1. Buy it in Ancourage or Wasilla. Unless you haul major ass to Talkeetna (assuming you're headed into DNP) you rarely fly the same day you get into Talkeetna. Even if you do chances are there are climbers in front of you waiting to fly. Might as well spend the day shopping/packing and planning (hoping) to fly the next day.
  2. Sunday September 26th @ the PRG! Dry Tool Comp! Adult Beverages! Raffle! Silent Auction! Raising $$$ for the Washington Climbers Coalition and Hyalite! AND Mr Aaron Mulkey will be giving us a slideshow on all the great unclimbed ice still waiting in Wyoming! Come see what Waterice 7 looks like!
  3. I look forward to seeing both of you at the PORTLAND ICE FESTIVAL!
  4. TRing in August? Nerds.
  5. Dogs are allowed in Mill Creek and Ferguson Canyon. Lots of climbing besides just little and big cottonwood.
  6. Bozeman doesnt have as much rock climbing as some of the others on your list. Still a rad place. Fort Collins is close to a lot. Same with Durango SLC takes the cake IMO.
  7. I have always been under the impression Scarpa is wider than Sportiva. I personally get a good fit out of Scarpa (I have a pair of 6000s and phantom lights) but cant get a good fit out of sportiva. I should mention though I havent tried on the latest models that just came out... I dont know if they changed the last or not. I'm surprised you dont get a good fit out of the 6000s as they have a moldable liner: did you mold them at the time of purchase?
  8. Bears in Heat starts from same tree as Dutchman but goes more or less straight up. Climbers left of Dutchman. Nate Farr tricked me into doing it on Saturday :laf: RAD climb. Supposedly the 2nd pitch is easier than the first but we both hung on the 2nd. Super worth doing though. Crux is right at the end on the first pitch.
  9. Thanks but which one for both of you? Ivan: Bears? Nate: Flying?
  10. Flying Dutchman. What's it rated? Anybody TRed/aided/??? it? and speaking of what's the second pitch of Bears in Heat rated?
  11. I've accidentally done Wickwire-Stanley finishing up the third couloir on triple couloirs and the couloir was a real pile. I was stoked to have rock shoes. We didnt have axe/pons and were okay.
  12. About time! Daniel "the trencher" Harro!
  13. Programming matters
  14. Unrepeated. Talk to Craig... Pete and him discussed it a few summers ago while putting up some new routes in the Enchantments. Apparently lots of Pete's gear is still up there...?
  15. Very nice! Fully agree this route is one of the best in the cascades *even if* you factor in the approach. Maybe I missed it but did you two do the 5.10 twin cracks up higher or did you take the right hand option?
  16. Bear is just a walk up!?!?!
  17. New ATC out in the fall is lighter than the current reverso
  18. PDX! Come get your copy of Raindawg's new book SIGNED Or maybe your favorite power drill! Or your favorite crowbar! Or both! :[] :: baa sickie See you pillow biters there!
  19. You should switch crags... you personality would fit right in with the other beacon regulars
  20. I was behind the team of 2 on Young Warrior on Sunday that did the cutting: one was from Tacoma and one from Vancouver, WA. I saw the tat hanging on his harness at the top of 1 and encouraged him to leave any rap tat he finds on other anchors at Beacon. His argument was tat from '07 (it is marked 07) is suspect and by removing it he was doing future newbies a favor by preventing them from top roping off the webbing. Is his argument valid? Sure. I personally have never understood why people leave tat on hangers that are specifically designed so that one doesnt have to leave tat but I'm sure you guys can argue for another 2 pages about why it makes sense.
  21. Does Jake Porter finally close the deal in this one? 8D
  22. I think Neil is living over there now...?
  23. Hell yes. I remember looking at that line on Lightning wondering what it was. Another one to add to the to do list.
  24. The real question Steph is when are you going to climb Curtis? The trifecta awaits!
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