John Frieh

Trip: Burkett Needle - East Arête "Repeat Offender" (FA) Date: 9/11/2011 Trip Report: Summary: First Ascent of the East Arête of Burkett Needle on September 11th 2011. Dave Burdick, John Frieh and Zac West. “Repeat Offender” IV 5.9 M5 AI3 Details: On September 9th, 2011 Dave Burdick, Zac West and I (John Frieh) flew to the Burkett Glacier in the heart of SE Alaska’s Stikine Icecap. A rare two-day weather window had appeared in between the record storms and rainfall that had been hammering the area all summer long. Our intentions on Mt. Burkett were soon abandoned after observing how active and broken the hanging glacier on the approach was in its fall state. Instead we turned our attentions to the unclimbed East Arête of Burkett Needle, a 2300’ alpine tower immediately West of Mt. Burkett. The following day our team ascended a rock rib to access the icefall below the Needle’s Southeast Face. The glacier was quite broken and required climbing into moats and up a short serac to reach the gully that leads to the base of the East Arête. Deteriorating weather caused us to bivouac at the col and attempt the climb the next day. On September 11th, we ascended steep snow and low 5th rock up the lower aspects of the East Arête to a prominent gendarme. A short wall lead up and over the gendarme to exposed rock and mixed climbing along and right of the ridge crest to the false summit. A short rappel brought us to the summit tower where our route joined the 1964 Kor-Davis North ridge. Three mixed snow and rock pitches lead to the summit. We rappelled and downclimbed the Northeast face to descend. The East Arête “Repeat Offender” (IV 5.9 M5 AI3) represents the 6th ascent of the peak. Many thanks to the Copp-Dash Inspire Award and the Mazama Expedition Committee for supporting our trip, Dieter Klose for support and allowing us to climb while the Icecap was “closed for the season” and to our pilot Wally from Temsco Air. Dave Burdick John Frieh Zac West 2009 First Ascent of the West Ridge of Burkett Needle "Smash and Grab" Trip Report Pictures: Yes we have many more photos and video to share but in accordance with the grant we will be putting it all together into a multimedia presentation to share at a later date (a slideshow perhaps?) so... stay tuned! Approach Notes: Temsco Air

Let's get something on the books for this November or December. Shoot me an email duder!

Thanks! We were reminiscing about the Hyalite trip with you and Loren and my stellar dancing skillz :laf: PS: congrats and tell you know who I look forward to our cheeseburger powered climb

Trip: Andromeda - Shooting Gallery Date: 9/4/2011 Trip Report: Mad props to the inFERNo for graciously permitting me to talk her into this in lieu of CNR on Stuie. Big IOU! Looking forward to this winter lady That's right punters: ice already. Might as well give up on your proj redpoint and start thinking about a different type of point... the sharp kind Andromeda Shooting Gallery Let's get this party started... 2011/12 Ice Season Day 1 Enroute to the crux To The Top! Headed Home Gear Notes: 8 screws all <16. #2 c3, purple and red camalot. Pins but didnt use them. Approach Notes: No postholing

Except that I didnt pay 10 for it

I ordered it direct from Petzl but a quick google search revealed MooseJaw and US Outdoor have it on their website for purchase.

Anybody know how this compares to south ridge of Gimli? As good?

Bump: any Slesse updates?

The lightest 5-6 mm one you can afford. Purchase ~5 meters longer than the rope you lead on so that even though the knot will move during rap you still hit both ends at about the same distance. Also if needed one can cut pieces off the rap line for rap anchors in a pinch.

I rap on a 9.2 mm and a 6 mm using a BD guide and though the knot pulls away from the anchor a little as you rap it isnt bad. The second just pulls the knot back to the anchor before he goes.

Nice work dudes Did that monster right facing corner/roof system look as good as it does in the pictures? ...

Speaking of Chromoly: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1032099/Re_FS_Darts_AND_Dartwins_Cramp#Post1032099

Thanks Dane. Sent them an email and got this

Has anyone been contacted by Petzl yet for replacement of their pinned tools with a redesigned one?

What size?

Gatorade has fructose in it which is the last thing you want to be putting in your body during long workouts. I would look at your diet first and see if you have any holes there... generally a well rounded diet has enough electrolytes in it to buffer for cramping. The other primary suspect is your training program: are you doing regular endurance work to prepare the body for the effort? If you are doing all of the above then it could be an electrolyte issue. I would second the hammer nutrition recommendation. They make great stuff

As Modular at it gets!

Nothing in the rules states what can or cant be considered "cragging" And it's not my fault I crush AK routes in a weekend :laf:

GREAT PICS!

@Hugh New one (the one I have): Old one:

+1 are you talking about the ciervo 18l pack? What is so good about it? It doesn't look that great from a photo but there must be more to it than the photo shows. It seems to lack both any kind of axe loop and some kind of daisy chain. I have an 18L and a 35L. The 18L replaced my well used Grivel Manu (RIP) and is my new long rock route bag. Perfect size for some water, descent shoes, a layer and some snacks. Gene is right: no ice axe loops on this one. The 35L is my new alpine go to. I had the old one which was great but the new one is that much better. Might be a little big if you never plan on carrying bivy gear in it... I'd say look at the 25L if that is the case but given the small difference in weight between the 25L and the 35L I'd say just grab the 35L. The new 35L feels a touch bigger than the old 35L and is one hell of a great design. Super impressed with it. but dont take my word for it... just look at Colin's blog and see which pack he uses in Alaska...

Nice work guys. Really enjoyed Jens write up in his blog also

Untrampled adventure that dont have significant objective hazard in the cascades? Unclimbed Hozomeen West Face Unclimbed East Face Three Fingers Unclimbed ice line climbers left of Drury Unclimbed ice in Strobach Unclimbed ice above Craig Lake Unclimbed Destroying Angel 2nd Ascent/First Free Ascent of Goat Beard Heart of Darkness East Face of Slesse West Face of Gunsight Anything on Bear ANY Doorish route I'd be willing to bet many cc.com contributors could add to this list...

I'll say it: I don't get it. I guess if the perfect condition/weather window came together then sure but still... why? It's been climbed before and your chances for getting hit by rock fall and/or getting squished are respectable. Are you really willing to stick it out for the Willis Wall? If you don't mind sticking your neck out for some objective hazard I can think of a few unclimbed lines in Alaska and Canada that would be much more deserving of the risk. my 2 cents

Just when I thought they would never be able to top the prehistoric dog video [video:youtube]zo8NFrmQ_S0