John Frieh

Right on!

I love how you fucks always assume the rest of us actually want in... if that was the case why do you dicks have to spend so much each year on recruiting??? What was the theme for your homecoming dance this year? Midnight in Paris? What’s the matter? Didn’t get to go to any in high school? Does your frat get a bulk discount on Rohypnol?

I don't think this is early season anymore. If anything the season on gib is almost over...

Delta Chi!?!? I knew it; you’re a frat dick! You call everyone one this site gay, but who is the one that chooses to live in a house with 40 other guys? I always wanted to know: how do you guys schedule who gets to wear which Abercrombie shirt on a certain day?

Frat? School?

Are you seriously in a frat? Which school?

I rather swim in slush any day than climb the world's tallest gravel pile.

Fear of heights generally stems from fear of falling to one's death. This can be minimized if you explain the physics of falling: how much energy one could possible generate in a fall and compare this to how much energy is required to blow up an anchor, a biner, a rope, a runner, etc. Reviewing John Long's climbing anchors or NOLS wilderness mountaineering will cover any gaps you might have. Also, make it a point to cite all the redundancies in your anchor when she arrives: if this blew up, this would back it up, etc. etc. Start on routes that are well below her climbing ability level with comfy belay ledges. Even better, do multipitch sport routes and then get into multipitch trad. As she builds confidence with those, you can work up to bigger routes. Finally, keep in mind multipich isn't for everyone. Gauge her enthusiasm for proposed routes and look to see if she is pushing to do a route (or if its all your idea).

You don't need mashies. If you think you need a head placement, you need to top step or reevaluate your placement options. The fish headmaster kit is a great head kit (when you get into it). The BD physical store in Utah generally has all the leeper hooks in stock; get two of the 3/4 inch, two of the 1/2 inch, and 1 micro. The fragile flake hooks are nice, but you won't need them on this route.

You will come up roughly 30 ft short of the top with a 60 m. Go with Greg W's advice, but make sure whatever you do, your girlfriend is comfortable with it. The last thing you want to do is turn her off... (to climbing ).

I honestly feel sorry for Martlet. To this day I have never understood how anyone can get (and possible crave) self satisfaction and fulfillment from hiding behind a DSL connection and purposely attempting to anger other people. If this is his main source of attention (which it seems it is); he is obviously an introvert of some type that is so inapt at social skills and physical interaction he has turned to the comforting lull of his hard drive fan. Martlet registered a little more than a week ago, yet is already at 300+ posts (I’ve been on the site for 6 months and almost have 200). At this rate he will dethrone even Dru at posts. Personally, I value my free time greatly and anytime I have a half day to myself (heck even a few hours); there are 8 millions things I rather do instead of sitting in front of my computer hitting the refresh button. I would suspect many of the users of this page are the same way (hence the board being so dead on the weekends). Martlet: I will be on the East Coast (Boston) in the next month for work. Perhaps you might consider going bouldering with me. You need a new hobby. And sunlight.

Good point: I should clarify its tucked around the head band portion (closer to the ears) such that I maintain the space in the top of the helmet. Dr Crash: How many rock routes you been on that had fire wood chillin' on the belay ledges? If you are worried about the SAM splint weight; learn to belay with a munter hitch and leave your belay device at home. The ultra light series is a good start, but you need to analyze what injuries you will be most likely to treat. Example: broken bones are more likely rock climbing than mountaineering. Blisters are more likely with plastic/leather boots than approach/rock shoes. Go through a checklist prior to each climb and add and subtract as needed. An excellent read is Accidents in Mountaineering. You'd be amazed what kind of things you could potential face. Additionally, you can quiz yourself if you know how to treat it, would you be able to treat it with each incident.

The one I had to carry was like 3 lbs! And that's not including that damn radio... With Adventure Medical selling first aid kits weighing in at a half pound (the ultralight series) I would argue NOLS first aid kits are a little on the heavier side. Personally, I think people should look at their first aid kit for what it contains, not how much it weights. Trim weight elsewhere: pack, rope, biners, etc. I completely agree; knowledge and judgment are thee two best tools you can take in the backcountry. Useless without the other, but invaluable when used together.

You can vary your first aid kit contents based on the activity you will be pursuing (mtn biking vs climbing for example). I carry a WMI wound pack, a few band aides and gauze, a SAM splint with ample splitting material (tape) at minimum. Depending on how far from medical response I am headed and long the trip is, I will add to that. If I go to Smith or some other more populated area, I also stash gloves and a micro mask (can't be too safe with those slutty sport climbers these days ) in the top of my helmet; this way it's always there. Kinda not related, but if I'm in the back country or on a long route, I stash an empty unused shit bag in the top of my helmet (feel free to make all the shit head jokes you'd like) instead of the micromask to keep the routes clean for all. Because who likes coils dropped on their head? If you think you are a lifer for climbing; especially alpine climbing I would highly recommend taking a wilderness first responder course (WFR). You can take a condensed one in a week, or take the standard over a semester. I view WFRs like an AVY class, essential if you plan to venture into the backcountry. Yes they cost money, but how much is your life (or your partner’s) worth? Generally what people consider essential first aid kit material increases after completion of this course.

Or maybe the sediments for the attacks came from the realization that america is a bunch of heartless idiots like yourself that think its okay for Israel to have WMD (which they are required to purchase with each aid check we send) but not okay for Saddam (even though we gave them to him but a decade ago). But hey... have we found any yet? I thought that's why we went in the first place. Or maybe it was just an exercise in the combat picture readiness of our troops... You need to transfer to a liberal arts college in america soon or your brain might become permanently retarded. And no ones perfect; yeah Miramax is selling out, but generally one has to use the system to change it. Just an idea.

I thought you were a flag wavin' laissez faire minded scab? Wouldn't you be supportive of anyone perpetuating the “great” capitalist way of life (or is death the correct term?) regardless of who they are prospering from? Or are your feathers all rustled up when a few of us lemmings don’t march to the drum beat?

So what were you trying to say?

As far as I have heard yes. I have parked there a number of times for E. side LC routes and never had a problem, but a buddy of mine last year had to bail off TRL and barely got back to his truck before getting towed. You could call DOT and ask them, but I get the feeling WSP might not give a shit. 0.2 miles isn't that far.

Stop the train... perhaps I read this wrong, but are you attributing 9/11 to Moore?

You could buy a Wild Things Andinista and use it for the approach (5000 c.i.) as well as the summit push (compresses to 1800 c.i. via zippers). Stripped down (no foam, etc.) it weighs less than 2 lbs (at least the older models). I like the Lowe Alpine Attack Summit pack; it doubles as a sleeping bag stuff sack on the approach. The MEI one looks great also.

I meet him at the WTO protest in Seattle a few years back; very nice, knowledgeable man that was easily approached. What's worse? Distorting the truth as Moore supposable does, or just plain hiding it behind "patriot" acts, Supreme Court hunting buddies, and questions whose appropriateness is predetermined by the individuals being questioned (all behind closed doors of course)?

And don't park your car at the bend in the road across the street from the trail; WSP has identified towing cars parked here a great source of revenue (in addition to patrolling for a silver with OR plates... bitches...). Its better to drop one partner at the bend with the gear and have the other drive up to Blue Lake campground and park and walk back down (its only .2 miles). You'll be glad when come off anyways as the will be much more readily accessible.

Offset aliens and cam hook mastery will guarantee a clean ascent. You might want to wait until June as you will encounter some wet sections (esp. down low) this time of year. Take a comfy harness or a ledge for the 4th pitch belay unless you don't like your kidneys or enjoy cherry coke colored piss. Also, consider the alternate bolted start that Mr. House put up a few years ago; much more enjoyable (beta: all bolts and 1 #4 camalot placement). I attached a topo.

I rather be considered a wanker than a turd...

It has been years (back in those high school days) and we didn't get zebra/zion in due to lines and lack of GU, but yeah, I've done it a few times. It's not as bad as it sounds; especially if you simul Moscow, Monkey's and Sky ridge. You can always substitute cinnamon slab and moonshine for zebra/zion... the goal is to get 20 pitches in a day. I know of a few others if you're interested... A good one at Leavenworth is Outer Space, descend, Orbit, descend, (and Hyper Space if you are that bad ass), hike out and do as many routes on Careno as possible. More hiking than Smith, but assuming you can crank 2 routes on Careno in addition to Orbit and OS, you can break 20 again. My rule at Leavenworth is always try to get more pitches in than ticks. I thought TRs for single pitch and general cragging was borderline wankernous on this site…?