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Sorry I'm slow. Carry on!!!

Uh, I beg to differ.

It was a great(long) day up there with Darin. The climbing was very enjoyable and would recommend it, but the run under the ice fall was full on alpine gauntlet.

Great job Jason and Kit! Guess I should have found time for that adventure Everyone has a Good Food story. I always felt like I was walking into a Far Side cartoon every visit.

Trip: Lincoln Peak - Standard Route…I guess Trip Date: 06/11/2018 Trip Report: Trent texted Sunday night wanting to know if I was in for tomorrow. Uh, sure. For what? His partner bailed on his planned Lincoln Peak trip. Did I want to go. I haven't climbed any alpine in month's, out of climbing shape, drank all weekend with friends. Sure, I'll go. But I don't know anything about the route or approach, so Trent is the navigator on this one. We got a later start Monday so we didn't have to sit in camp for too long that afternoon. Left Burlington at 11am and drove up to the infamous FSR34. We had the secret weapon for FSR 34. Big Blue, a '79 Ford super duty beast of a truck. We drove up the road through brush and ruts to within 1 switchback of the end. Big Blue would not be denied. We then started the thrash up the old road bed. It is a thrash with plenty of slide alder, rock and an occasional trail. We broke off uphill after having enough of the road bed and enjoyed steep underbrush until finally breaking out onto snow. Surprisingly there was a fairly substantial layer of fresh snow, but travel was easy from there to high camp at the end of the ridge. We got from the car to camp in under 3 hours thanks to Blue. Great views of Lincoln and the route were enjoyed while sipping some whiskey and trying to stay warm. It was breezy and colder than we expected for the evening with clouds moving in and out. A 2am start got us to the top just after 6 for a cool sunrise. The shrund was negotiated with about 40' of steep s'nice climbing, then some crappy snow climbing with a 2" breakable crust with 4-5 inches of sugar underneath. We did have the occasional front pointing, but the large part of the climb was popping through the crust, unless you're bantamweight Trent who seemed to dance on top way more than clydesdale me. Route finding was pretty straightforward and the climbing consistently steep and enjoyable without being hairy. We broke out the rope for the final 10ft onto the summit. Great views with clear weather on top in fresh sunshine was perfect. One rappel off the summit and then we down climbed the entire route with the exception of the schrund, where we did one 30m rappel off of a picket. The steps I bitched about on the way up made for easy down climbing and back to camp. The thrash back down to Big Blue made us cuss and spit, but we made it back in 2 1/2 hours and licked our wounds with IPA spittle. All in all a great day out with Trent. The climb is really enjoyable with a bit of Rockies taste to it. If someone cut a path through that hell of an approach I think it would be a regular classic for its short climbing window. Some crappy cell phone pictures. No Jason G on this trip to capture the great images. I suck at photos. Gear Notes: 2 tools, rope, pickets, Hunters Approach Notes: Big Blue. Shwack, thrash, swear

If you go to Banff/Canmore, you had better be on your toes. Serious conditions up there right now. I'm heading up Sunday, but know some places out of the firing line and plan on being very cautious. If you're not familiar with the area I would be very hesitant to recommend going up there for a bit. http://www.avalanche.ca/news/avalanche-canada-is-issuing-a-special-public-avalanche

Most have probably heard, but we lost a NW legend last week. Having done the Split Pillar, that picture of him on it in winter always blew my mind. And that was peanuts compared to what he did in the Karakoram and Yosemite. He had a tough time later in life, but was still getting after it. http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2875796/Kim-Schmitz-Has-Died http://www.wyofile.com/blog/gifted-lucky-climber-learns-walk/

Great job on getting it done with iffy weather. Good choice on not trying Sunshine. You want some serious warmer temps before freezing on that ironically named route I've watched the CMH heli drop a box of supplies at the hut before, where they were stashed in the closet in an icebox. We got to experience steaks, hamburgers, lasagna and every other gourmet food being eaten in front of us for a week...good times.

Nice report. That is a cool way to get it done. Having done the 3 summits route up and down, I like your way instead of the soul crushing yo-yo's both ways that we got to "experience".

What a great trip. Thanks for sharing!

No, I only scared some mormon children. But that was fun too.

They let me bring them on after they fondled them for awhile and had a conference. Come to think of it, they acted like I do when I get new gear and show to friends.

Trip: Utah-SLC - A few Date: 1/16/2016 Trip Report: There is ice in Utah! My first ice climbing trip there was good times, despite the biblically repressive alcohol laws over the holiday weekend. The locals are busy on the slopes tearing up the epic snow year, so the crowds weren't too bad at the popular areas, and non-existent at the remote areas. Only three days to climb, but I'd recommend taking a trip if you want something new. The approaches were as easy as it ever gets for ice climbing. Some random pics: Stairway to Heaven Bridal Veil Falls with White Lightning in foreground Gear Notes: Watching TSA try to figure out what ice screws are and whether they are allowed as carry-on was almost worth the show. Approach Notes: So easy

Freshiez all over that thing John. How many lines did you do?

The man knows how to use his camera. Takes the pressure off me to get the shots Great trip with great dudes! Bob is right, the guides have set up a lot of the rap routes with a 70m rope in mind. We made it work with 60's, but definitely made some stressful rope stretchers. The exception is the Bugaboo glacier raps, which are easily done with a 60. You just have to watch out for knuckleheads above.