John Frieh

Nice work guys... for sure a great route! Great to see others climbing it. But having climbed this route I gotta say you guys tilt the shit out of your photos! It is no where as steep as your photos make it look

Talkeetna. Many thanks for efforts guys. Much respect

Nice work kids. It was like that last year when I did it in late April :laf: Any pics of the first pitch of the NW face couloir?

I'll be there tonight (7:30 pm) and could be talked into another session tomorrow. Call me dude!

I actually PMed and climbed with Robert for a good portion of the winter. He works too much (are you reading this Robert?!?!) hence my request for additional partners

I'm in Portland and always looking for weeknight PRG partners. If the PRG thing works and our outside climbing interests overlap I would be stoked to get out. I have trad experience and a respectable rack. Shoot me a PM.

True story (so I'm told): Friend of a friend was on some el cap route and team above was dropping stuff on them at random. Biner. Nut. Etc etc. Annoying but nothing major. A day from the top dude is belaying and out of the blue LOUD noise and he's sprayed by something. It turns out team above him dropped their gallon zip lock bag FULL OF SHIT and it landed on the ledge next to him and exploded covering him and the haul bag. As they were near the top they were low on water and he couldnt get much to clean up and had to finish the climb covered in shit. :laf: :laf: :laf:

message sent

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Good stuff. Thanks for posting

Liberty Crack

Nice article Dave! If anyone is looking for a pair of Darts AND Dartwins I have both for sale in great shape: yard sale

Mad props. Way to crush Now that you did it what would you change about this training approach? If you had just climbed as much as possible (as many people argue is the best way to train for climbing) leading up to it do you think you would have succeeded?

St Elias with CD please

I have the new cierzo 18 and love it. And at a price I won't have second thoughts about hammering it. If you can still fine one the old grivel Manu's are great also.

I havent pounded it enough to comment on the longevity but I've been bashing a number of Ti blades and wedges from a Japanese company the last couple of years that seem to be holding up okay. My experience with pins is (at least for alpine climbers) often you leave them when bailing well before the pin is worn out.

@Rob: I've got one from NW Alpine that I'd sell you

NE face please

Climb anything? Did you hike into Stuart?

sent you a PM

So. Awesome. Well done boys. I am so jealous...

Everything on the gear sling. Runners, rock pro, and screws (I climb on BD screws if that changes anything?). Only knife, v thread material and anchor material on my harness. It seems like a cluster first couple times you try it but with some practice while ice cragging and you get used to it. I found screws in the front, then rock gear and finally draws in the back kept things fairly untangled. For ice leads at my limit I will for sure rack everything on my harness neatly but most of the time in the alpine I'm on terrain that is below that upper limit... because of that I can spend a few extra seconds fumbling with the gear sling for each piece of pro but doing so saves me minutes at the changeovers.

I've been doing it on longer routes when we were leading in blocks. Saves a ton of time at the belays.

PM about books

You forgot that I drink your milkshake pink