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genepires

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Everything posted by genepires

  1. If it is oversees or in a really bad area,(swampy area or a desert slot canyon) then filters are the way to go. If a GI problem is a big issue (like on the way up aconcagua) then you need the real deal filter. If you are poking around the states, chemical treatment is fine. I have used the aquamira for many years now. No issues. Where are thinking of heading for your week?
  2. I think the mechanical ones are more accurate. (as of 8 years ago when I last looked at that) Maybe that has changed. But I think the weight and bulk of the mechanical ones don't make the difference in accuracy worth it. I have a suunto one from a long time ago and it has performed well. The newer ones are undoubtably better. I think there was a thread about this previously that would be good to search for. lots of opinions on it. Just a thought for others who may be looking at this thread. Maps and compass/altimeter get you up a route and a gps will get you down the route. Unless you have a waypoint list to follow,(from someone previously going up the same route) I don't think it is easy to make them up from a map, hence the need for a more primitive method for direction.
  3. I have never use a gps but I remember seeing one that had a built in barometer with the GPS so that you could do weather predictions as far as seeing the pressure change even if you are ascending/descending. If you can figure out the gps, I would bet that it is a superior device to compass and altimeter in a white out. I usually try to avoid that condition though so I have never needed a gps. Using all of the tools (map/compass, altimeter and a gps)and knowing how to use it (really use it not just book know how) would be the best option as it is all options.
  4. Trip: das mighty tooth - south fun face Date: 1/17/2009 Trip Report: Not enough time for any photos. Just wanted to give out a conditions report. The tooth is in good shape. Hardly any snow on route and it is in the sun all day. (the normal route) No floatation needed for approach or getting back to car. The basin below the tooth which I thought would have melted into slop never got much sun so it stayed hard into the afternoon. Getting through pineapple pass is easy as the cornice has not really formed. Getting from the pass to the base of the rock has a short steep snow bit but a large tree is there to grab onto. Like said above, the rock was sunny and relatively warm. Kinda breazy. We left a couple of slings as some of the anchors must be under snow. (Like the top) It is in sweet shape now. There was no one else out there and obviously no one else has been there in a while. No obvious tracks. Why? I hope more people get on it as it is a super fun and mellow winter time route. Gear Notes: normal rack: nuts, cams, single rope, sunscreen and glasses. Approach Notes: nothing but boots needed.
  5. maybe you were banned because you go on and on about this. You made your point. Now let it just be, please.
  6. deleted do to getting a regular job again. weekend available.
  7. SO I just got a job starting tuesday and now I would like to get up the tooth or something else on the weekend, preferably saturday. Anyone interested? thanks gene OLD: Would like to make a run up the tooth in the later half of this week. The weather looks nice and the snow pack should be easy and solid melt/freeze. wed or friday is best but could do thursday also. gene
  8. sounds like it is alpine climbing season up there. (when it freezes up at night)
  9. Hawaii to denali? warm beaches to frigid ice slopes? talk about thermal shock. I used a arcteryx pack on denali, some big bora one and it was good. I have a big and lightish MEC pack that has worked very good at big loads, if the MR packs are crap (which is unlikely) and the arcteryx pack are too expensive (likely).
  10. so like most things, you have to try out the goods before you buy. Luckily you have lots of opportunity here to get inside bags.
  11. I know of a guy who ripped out 3 screws from the upper half on a fall, landed in the middle snow patch to slow him down a little and then all the way to the ground. LUckily there was the usual huge pow pile at the base so he walked away. Without knowing about this, I climbed it the next day and got his tool back which was in the middle snow field. Damn that thing is scary.
  12. too bad that the pillars fall off so frequently. I remember some big debris at the base on one of my trips there. Probably best to stay left on that climb as the guides usually do. good to hear you didn't get squished!
  13. here's a thought. Try some of your training hikes with a mouth piece in your mouth. (or some other flow restrictive device) It will simulate the reduced atmosphere by making your lunges have to work harder. It will look wierd but training is training. I have not tried it, just a thought that came while reading your question. Be good to your body while at altitude. Be a germ a phobe and keep your intestines clean which can be a major problem down there. Keep away from people with a chest cold. On your stay in town, do everything you can to avoid catching some "bug" because that will destroy your chances when you get to altitude. Stay hydrated to a point of being annoying. Keep to food going in but wash your hands before eating. See above. Even if you can go fast, DON'T. Your goal is to minimize all stress to your body so that it can acclimitize. ANy stress (dehydration, lack of food, dealing with illness, physical exertion, ect) to the body hinders the changes it needs to make. have fun up, be safe, stay out of the lenticulars, learn how to build good rock walls and rock anchors for your tent, try to get your water from safe locations away from terd piles, go down if you feel not right and read up on altitude stuff more. Too much is never enough. Oh yeah, don't pee into (obvious) or with the wind.(think disturbance of wind and the chaotic flow pattern of the air) Pee at 90 degree to the wind. enjoy!
  14. spend to money and get a good feathered friends bag. They have many different models to fit your shape and needs. There is more to a bag than weight and price. My FF bag has lasted a LONG time and is conservatively rated. That is what you get for paying for quality. I would assume that western mtneering has good stuff too but i have never owned one.
  15. Since you are going in june, a large grain like shovel may be overkill. There should be plenty of premade walls already. Your shovel use should be used for clearing out snow that drifts inside teh walls, making caches and hopefully not, building a snow cave. Your metal BD shovel should be fine. A small plastic shovel is good for clearing drifting snow near the tent. You don't want metal anywhere near the fly. Big tents are nice. you will spend time tent bound.
  16. divers spit inside their face mask, rub it all around and wipe it out gently. Seriously.
  17. it definately must follow a fibonaci sequence. 1ft ,1ft ,2ft ,3ft ,5ft ,8ft ,13ft ,21ft ,34ft ,55ft ,89ft, ect. there needs to be 2 bolts at 1ft away from the anchor for the high fall factor. With this spacing, it will be so natural that strict traditionalists will like it. Maybe the golden rectangle can fit in there somehow.
  18. you get what you pay for.
  19. same boot, same problem. After tying the boot normally, I take the loop ends and make a square knot. Never comes undone but it can take a little to untie when the day is done.
  20. with the sled, pad, and kid sitting essentially on the snow, it may get pretty cold. If you build a enclosure, how about a 1" gap between the sled plastic and the foam of whatever design. Maybe just a thin sheet of plywood with a couple of small wooden (or whatever else like plastic) "legs" to keep it off the plastic sled.
  21. How about if you took a stroller with an enclosure, that works well, take the tires and other stuff that you don't need, and bolt that onto your sled? I have a chariot setup with the ski attachment and it works well for roads. Too top heavy for traverses. Might not be enough floatation for deep unpacked snow. What kind of control on hills are you talking about? traverses? skiing downhill? Not sure if a kid sled could be made for such mobile and dynamic things.
  22. via ferrata would bring more people and then need more restrictions. The col is a natural-made restriction for people without snow climbing skills. Sad that it is getting that crowded there. The weather must be getting better.
  23. is this a question or proposal?
  24. unless you are really short, the 58 cm would do well for volcano climbing and moderate mixed summer cascade lines.
  25. I think I need the das to get the mail and trash cans this morning! for about half off, that pata das deal is hard to pass up. practically a pro/bro deal.
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