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genepires

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Everything posted by genepires

  1. so if it doesn't rain much when the leaves are turning, then the leaves are brighter?
  2. is it by mt temple? super couliour on deltaform?
  3. I was thinking of why the colors have been so noticeable this fall. The only thing I can think of is that we haven't had a string of burly windstorms to knock all the leaves down as they turn. So we get trees that are turning and staying colorful. A very nice fall so far!
  4. in case you didn't check, the side of the device (at least my old one) states the rope size allowed and it goes from 10 to 11mm ropes. Maybe the newer ones go down to 9.7 but I wouldn't bet on it. I would think to use it on only 10mm and above.
  5. I live in monroe and currently are working in the marysville area during the day.
  6. I got one and have never used it. As I have a kid now, I doubt that I will ever will. Maybe you have the time and gusto to put it to good use. I will sell it for $60. If I have to mail it to you, then we can talk about it but I would rather sell it face to face and with cash. PM me. thanks gene
  7. I seem to remember reading something about this previously but am unable to find it in the search. so I ask, is there a outfit that you would use for sewing new slings on cams? I have used metolious for my metolious cams but they don't do other companies cams. I have a mix of cams that need slings and don't want to send it out to 4 different companies. I would like one shipment to get it done. Something like yates? Anything closer like here in washington? thanks gene
  8. when they first came out, I thought the arches were too high and my flattish feet got blisters under the arch after some 8 odd miles. I sold them right away. Maybe it was a fluke. Maybe they changed the design. Maybe you have high arches. This was something I couldn't determine in the store.
  9. If you are talking of the huge boulder at the top of the climb, then you should know (and every newbie reading this) is that it is NOT well anchored. It is sitting on a sloping slab with sand between the boulder and the slab. Got to be the worst boulder to make your anchor on. It should have a "do not use this boulder or die" sign on it. yeah it was a very good day in the icicle. Nice temps and pretty trees.
  10. Got one day off (sunday) and would like to hit up some good craggin at n bend or the icicle. would like to get on 9's and 10's at either. PM me if interested.
  11. a parka that might be ok for the w rib may not be ok for the cassin. Yeah it is the same mtn but the commitment is different and you may be forced to climb in bad weather. Hence a serious down jacket may be a requirement. I don't mean to be an ass, but someone who is even considering going up the cassin should not need gear info from this website. All the needed info should have been learned in the real alpine classroom. Usually by bad judgements. The same could be said for the w rib (somewhat commiting) and the base camp circuits. Never underestimate the alaska range. I've been on 8 different routes in the park and every one of them had a serious section to it at one time or another. even the control tower made me shit my pants once. good luck up there. I am jealous!
  12. the best goretex jacket is the one that stays in the pack or car because the weather is so nice. I am not a big fan of wearing hard shells all day, only when it gets really bad and wet, in which case I am going back to the car. So my preference for hard shells is one that is very light and there is a patagonia anorak type shell is very good. I forget the name or even if they still make it. How about a very thin n light shell for bad weather judgement days with a wind shell (wild things) for day to day use?
  13. I loved the sarkens for alpine snow and ice and mixed ground, but I felt that the front points were too long for winter ice climbing. Was harder to get the secondary points to set in. I used the dartwin (replacement for sarken recall) this last winter and in alaska this spring and I felt it did well for both seasons. It would be nice to have a "one crampon for all seasons" but they don't really exist. The closest I have found is the dratwin. You might be happier if you had two pairs of poons, one for steep waterice ice and one for alpine terrain. When you mentioned mixed routes, do you mean mixed routes like vertical rock (vertical mono point)or mixed like in snow and low angle rock in alpine (dual horizontal point)? Very different crampons for each.
  14. I would not think vanilla wafer and kiwi is durable enough for backcountry use. Seems like you would have crumbs and kiwi juice everywhere. I have liked dried mango with nutella on it.
  15. it was only a matter of time before they went under. It cost alot to produce the magazine and without the excessive ads, they have been losing money from the first issue. It was not a big money making project. I think they would have been happy to break even. It was a wealthy man's sponsored project.
  16. When you ask about "bad ass winter storm", do you mean high winds or many feet of fresh snow? Let us assume you mean winds, in which case the buried in camp is a absolute requirement, regardless of tent type or design. A protected summer tent will fare better than a exposed "4 season" tent.
  17. if you go to the coleman seracs now, it will resemble honest winter ice conditions, brittle and hard. It will be very unlike the usual summer "buttery" conditions. You will need to get up there soon before the snow bury the low angle ice and possibly put a light cover over the smaller crevasses. If you head up there, do so in the next two weeks if the season progresses as normal.
  18. go to both. it is only about 3 or 4 hour drive away. spend 3 or 4 days in j tree. when your tips are trashed, go to RR. If you are still trashed, go to zion for a little canyon sight seeing.
  19. well some guide services get discounts on items used for rentals. While I have not been a part of the office environment for a guide service, it would not surprise me if some services got free gear for their rental department. Mainly services like exum. While not "sponsored", it is a financial factor to push a guide service to go with a product. Besides, the clients,sherpas and guides have to carry the heavy gear anyway. I have a jaded idea on NF but it is mainly the clothes. There ve tents are very good tents. While MH tents are also sturdy, they are heavier than the sort of heavy NF tents due to so many "bells and whistles". IMO, MH would make great tents if they got rid of the extra crap. Old wild country tents (terra nova) was the best tents distributed here but that is gone by the way side like grivel.
  20. just because "the biggest names" use them does not mean anything. Those people could be paid to use them gear. called sponsorship. There are plenty of good climbers using crappy NF gear. If walmart sponsored climbers, there would be some great climbers wearing the walmart apron, sending hard none the less.
  21. Hey Jason, can I be a newbie?? It has been a while since I got out. Maybe you can guide me!
  22. that is the coolest avatar image!
  23. If time is scarce, flying could buy you another climbing day or two. the drive is a solid 24 hours with good conditions. The flight to denver and drive to ouray will cost you one day each way. you "could" stay in the vic or any other hotel in town and walk to the ice park easily. The common place to stay is the riverside inn and bungalos but that is a little far to walk every day. If you could find a bus the get from the airport north of ouray (I forget the town but I remember it costing a lot more to fly there) then walking every where is a possibility. But if you have more than 4 days there, it is real nice to get out of the ice park and do some of the other great places. SIlverton comes to mind as well as the many places between. feel free to pm me with any more questions.
  24. I couldn't imagine using actual overboots on the normal route. Using overboots means using crampons as there is a nylon bottom. They would get trashed in the rock and scree and using crampons on the rock would be tedious at best. Maybe insulated supergaiters would make more sense. Only been there once on the varcas normal route and we had the plastic and regular supergaiter. Was cold but this boot system worked out fine. Only 10 feet of snow on the whole route (horizontal distance) so it could be different when you go. I saw some guys with only medium weight leathers up there. They made it fine but that leaves very little room for error. think long and hard about how much you LIKE your toes before going up there with leather boots. With the crazy circus enviroment on the other side of the mountian, you will see all kinds of insane practices. And frostbite. And death too. seriously. three people died while we were on the mountain.
  25. I tried the glued on patch thing with the sil-nylon glue stuff and it eventually opened up again. a temporary and not very durable solution.
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