genepires

zig zag on mt erie on a sunny saturday is a fine winter destination. Oh yeah, you want icy hard stuff.

can you get to mt erie?

oh, I see you got das tooth. AND whitechuck! how about Darin Berdinka and Dave Brannons trip up Hall peak from 4 (or so) years ago? W ridge of N twin is pretty good in winter too.

the best winter cascade route is the drive over i-90 on the way to banff. Haven't checked out your list but with my modest winter experience, I think the regular route on tooth is pretty cool in winter.

Bump. I bet this is in good shape right now. Hope someone gets on it but you will need good skiis for the long logging road.

sounds good. Seeing their rope management should be informative for sure. What did you use to search for those? (guess AMGA and rope management?)

who goes with a 3 person rope team? This is the newbie forum. I would hope that any newbie reading this would start out going on a glacier with 3 or 4 people. Actually I would hope that any newbie would go with 2 rope teams of 3 as a minimum for a basic glacier climb. There is another scenerio where an entirely new rope with LOTS of rope can be used to make any kind of rope system. As for my earlier scenerio, a 20 foot fall is fairly severe of a crevasse fall. There are lots of crevasses where a 20 foot fall would wedge the person. A 10 foot fall is reasonable and can easily make the drop loop. There is your new scenerio. So you see, it is usuable for some situations. To beat an old horse, it is just one tool for certain situations. There is no one way to solve any crevasse rescue situation. That kind of thinking will get people in trouble. The only reason why I am spending way too much time on this is because I only don't want newbies to have incorrect assumptions and head out into trouble. I would trust fully certified AMGA instructors over youtube videos anyday. (as well as all most anybody from this website for that matter) Any knucklehead can post on you tube or this site. I mean, like 2 chicks and a cup are on youtube. Yeah, everyone should question the teachers points and should evaluate the credentials as well as the content.

No one ever said that "they hardly ever use the drop loop system" you want a scenerio where the drop loop makes sense? 3 person rope team with a 60m rope, spaced out 40 feet apart which leaves 40 feet of rescue coils on either end. End guy falls in and cuts into the glacier at 20 feet from the middle guy. This leaves 120 feet of rope on surface, anchor to end of surface rope. Since the rope cuts in so far, prussiking and simple 3:1 won't work. A rescue hole must be prepared to the side to either haul or prussik out. The victim has sprained his wrist and is unable to prussik. So you must haul. There is enough rope to send down a loop (80 ft) and still have rope to make the 3:1 to pull on the 2:1 (40 feet). There is less cutting of the snow with the rope because there is less force per strand. Lip still padded anyway. Just one tool for a job. there is a scene where it works. you happy? I agree that men have difficulty with multi conversations. But those teachers you dismiss have done the rescue for real many times and have experience to back up their statements. gotta run.

Are you saying that the canadian AMGA is tweedle dumbs? Cause they use they dropped loop system for hauling out injured victims from crevasses. They must be completely ill informed. Mark Houston (a UIAGM/IFMGA the international guiding certification) also goes through why the dropped loop is a good tool to have for a rescue situation. Not the only tool, but one of many that people should know and practice before going out there. (in his alpine climbing book) Yeah, what do these people know about crevasse rescue? They have only been doing it for 20 plus years and a real interest in doing it right. Along with research from people who really study the physics of it, like the company Rescue Dynamics. They have an article about pulleys and use. http://www.rescuedynamics.ca/articles/pdfs/Pulley3to1.pdf Their studies (for efficiency) have shown that the single pulley is best used on the pulling end in a 3 to 1. Not a big stretch to assume that it would be the same for a drop loop 6:1 since it is just a 3:1 pulling a 2:1. And Gary Yngve, you are not missing something. I was misinformed about my physics as you obviously are superior with. I was told about the single pulley use from a AMGA head instructor but I was wrong about the physics of why. I thought it was more about heat generated from the amount of rope rubbing past. (my own hypothesis) I defer any physics knowledge to you. I have met a tweedle dumb and his name is Brian. Is there a sexist comment in his last PPS? "Just think that reading my posts is like talking to women."

oh those early years are the best! good to hear your story.

It is extremely likely that another rope would be needed in any crevasse rescue. (for prussiking or hauling) When would people fall in a crevasse? In the morning when the snow is frozen hard or in the afternoon when it is not? Of course it is when the snow is soft which would assume a fair bit of rope cutting through the lip. Can't climb through the lip and can't haul through it either. Clearing the lip from below could be impossible and clearing it from above runs the risk of cutting the loaded strand. Prepare a sweet lip to the side to either throw down a line to climb up or haul through that if needed. Which is were the canadian system comes in. If you got a good lip, send down the loop and haul away. two strands on the padded lip are going to apply less stress to the lip than one loaded strand. to bad this isn't KISS but the reality of the situation is not simple. best to learn all the tools to deal with a very complex situation.

weather changes quick there. Could very well be good by the time you get there. It also could be bad in the canyons but sunny and good in the pullout areas. Most climbs in the canyons will be cold this time of year. (as you may already know) have fun!

wastral is pulling a johndavidjr. wastral must be hoot on the glacier. Screaming and foaming at the mouth about trivial stuff. teams of two on glaciers should always have enough rope in rescue coils to be able to rappel down to his partner in a hole. period. Are you suggesting that a normal 3:1 or 6:1 be used over this canadian version of the 6:1? (for an injured climber)

chill out. it is only a pulley question. There are situations where the victim may be injured, unable to prussik out and still be able to help set up the system. How about a broken foot/ankle or one broken arm/hand? These people may find it difficult to prussik but sure can clip a biner to their harness. The system is not BS. It is just a tool to use in certain situations. The use of wrong tools for a certain situation is BS. As far as the victim being in a adrelaline high when it comes to clipping in a biner, by the time the biner actually makes it down to him or her (creating a anchor, getting safely to the hole, determine status, decide plan, excavate safe rescue hole / prepare lip) I would think the high has worn off enough to be able to clip in a biner to the harness. I would bet every climber is capable of clipping a biner. Even a newbie mountaineer.

put the pulley on #2. What matters is most is the amount of rope running through the pulley, not the weight held by the pulley. Especially with a 6 to 1, the point 3 will have very little rope motion per "cycle", therefore little friction even with the higher forces. WHile I haven't used the revolver biner in a crevasse rescue, they have a rating where the pulley locks. It is not meant to rotate while catching a leader fall. Not sure what the force is, but the biner may not be a pulley in the #3 position. I suppose the lock off rating would have to be above a 1kn to not lock off holding a man.

hard to stay warm in anything worth ice climbing in at -35F. Better yet, why climb when it is that cold? The ice is all brittle and suffering is high. Maybe I just suck. Seems like there are some good double leather boot with insulation but I never really thought about ice climbing in those conditions for reasons above. But if you must........

ooooooooh. we gotta watch any reference to world trade center or the department of homeland security will be all over us.

nice of them. we need more good "word of mouth" things like this. they should be rewarded with more business.

please do fall off the horizon. The one time in my life I had a GI infection happened to coincide with the one time I drank unpurified water on the north side of baker. Hmmm. Must have been from someone else's filthy hands and not the water. NO! It was the water!

One thing to think about. The guide service has been getting people up rainier and has a better understanding of what is needed. If leathers were better than plastics, they would recommend them. There is no secret arrangement between guide services and plastic boot manufacturers. If you show up with plastics and they pressure you into plastic, rent the plastics. Many of the opinions above from people not on a guided team, which means they probably traveled faster than you will. So leathers work well if you keep moving. Plus they probably went in optimal weather since they are locals. You don't have that option. Instead of relying on this website opinions (which probably you are not), call they guide service and ask them about the boot in question. Also, if you go with leathers, make sure it has several miles of use to break in well. Woudl really suck to have to bail due to foot blisters after spending tons of cash to get there. Also, (again) I use a small stretchy gaiter underneath the normal gaiters to keep snow out of the boot. When it gets real sloppy, snow will get inside the outer gaiter.

isn't it called bryant butt Right? Rated wi 4 but it looks much easier than that right now. No mention of a route going past the two pitches in the guidebook. Sounds fun!

Be ready to rent the plastics if need be. June can be sloppy snow conditions, especially in the afternoon on the descent. Plastics would be much better than any plastic in wet conditions. I am not a big fan of plastics too but in these kinds of conditions, leathers are a poor choice. Plus if the weather is less than perfect, you WILL want the protection of a plastic boot. Hiking in the rain in leathers? there will be more snow and very little if any ice in late june. weather is very often marginal in june as the good weather typically comes in around early july. enjoy rainier!

can we ban all of new jersey?

no wonder you got banned from other sites.

If the sled is wide enough, you could just bungie it to the sled. I have a wimpy little dog who might need a ride home on a snow walk so I was looking at bungie cord strap of a dog kennel on a sled. Looks pretty good and I bet a chariot would work also for a groomed road or something flat. Would tip over in any kind of powder.