genepires

I was up there two weekends ago and there is some snow on that side of the valley, but much less than normal years. If I was to guess, I would think that you could get up about a quarter of the way up the hill before having to tromp in snow, assuming some snow melt from that weekend we were there.

Damn, that is bad news for injured climbers and the rangers. The rangers will have to haul people out farther. Maybe it will return a different ethic to the range. A more "wild" ethic of more conservative climbing. Nah, more people will die there.

Anyone have any idea how often slipstream gets done anymore? I once had it on my "list" but it has slid down as I got older and scratched off as I got a child. Something about Mark Beebie dieing there. Still looks real awesome though. Sweet that people got up it in such old gear. Bad asses back in the day!

So Dane, what are the advantages of the atc sport over other devices? Obviously it is a whopping 27 gram saving over the XP but it is heavier than the regular atc which comes in at 50 grams. (which you didn't show in your weight arguement above) So maybe your super light alpine rig should include a atc over a sport, if weight was the sole factor. Functionality should be a consideration, like the ability to easily rappel. Your statement about how the device does work gets ignored is irrelevant. I don't think anyone ever said that the device won't work as a belay device. The point that is stated over and over is the lack of the ability to doing rappels with it. What people do not need the ability to do rappels while climbing? People at short crags and gyms will find this device fits them well. Sure you could use the sport at any type of climb, but it was designed for crag use. Short crag use. from the BD website "A single-rope, sport-cragging belay device,". Not even sport climbing but sport cragging. BTW- there is a sweet photo on the BD website of a guy hex protecting super crack. Awesome!

I'll post plenty of pictures of me not using a dumb device. Easy. Actually when one has common sense, you don't need pictures to prove your point or push your experience level to others, something you seem to do plenty. Can't average joes have an opinion of anything, dane? Or are we too far below you to have a valid opinion? Such attitude.....

Damn Dane, what is with the attitude? For an old guy, you do freak out on the dumbest things.

winthrop is a little far from vancouver.

it rains there every day. the rain is pain leaving the body. other than that, it was probably dry after noon.

if it is electrolytes you need, why look at gels when there are products made for electrolyte issues, like hammer endurolytes or something spelled like that. or the heed stuff.

yeah the sport is a complete waste of time and money. I hope they lose a lot of money on that product and get there common sense back.

From someone who was up at the pass last weekend, there was lots of postholing. With the rain that is coming now and during the weekend, I would suspect that the route is mostly snow free but damp.

when my doubts of the ropes have gone on for around 2 years and I can't stand it anymore. Since I am afraid to fall, my ropes don't get any air time, only rap use. So the ropes often get to be 6 years old and not look it. Then the doubts start and two years later, time to do something about it. This probably doesn't help, but you seem to know all the reasons to retire a rope. Probably best after 5 years with no obvious reasons to retire before.

prime rib is old school 10b. It seems like many of the routes on warrior wall are old school and a bit harder than elsewhere in the icicle. very sweet area with lots of work going into it this last year. did you start prime rib on the far left side of the formation? The start, like Rad states, is a straight in, sort of crummy, wide, feels slight overhanging crack. I don't think any other climb on the wall has such a start. the second pitch, after a short corner and fat ledge rest, has a wicked short traverse to an bolt protected slabby arete. hope that helps.

I am sorry if I sounded like I was bad mouthing peshastin. I wasn't trying to. I rather like the occasional day spent there. It is an excellent place to get in some variety and additional rock skills in our local cragging environment. Just trying to give an honest assessment of what to expect for a first time visitor.

das toof. it will actually be a good climb this time of year with all the snow everywhere. In the sun all day. should be good. are you looking for snow lines or any kind of routes?

according to the guidebook there are 17 routes with stars and only need draws. There breakdown is: route rating 5.6 1 skull w star rating 5.7 none 5.8 1 with stars rating 1 skull w star 5.9 2 with stars rating 2 without star rating, 1 skull w star 5.10 4 with stars rating 1 without star rating 2 skull w star 5.11 3 with stars rating As you can see it is rather limiting to pure sport climbers as the non star climbs are probably crap so that leaves 10 routes that are not run out. The west face route has some 12 bolts for 30 meters or so. (5.8)

it is real sporty sport climbing that needs a serious trad rack for. The routes are old school so expect healthy old school runouts (with a few exceptions of course) and also need to finangle in the trad gear in flaring cracks. definatley a unusual and interesting place to go a few times every year. (if not remember how good granite is) You can find some well protected bolt climbing and also some TR walk around setups but it ain't no smoke bluffs fur sure.

Mike Layton says "just use a nut tool!"

the new guide in question is the 2003 version. the book calls it " steep climb on impeccable white stone is climaxed by airy hand crack through roof" It could be impeccacbly white kitty litter stone. Does kitty litter get two stars?

screw boulder problems. how about big wall problems? throw a crash pad on it and set up as you work your way bouldering up el cap. a whole new crazy way to climb. maybe the new trend for the 2010's?

Setting up a ledge in Tieton? On Basalt columns that are 30 meters high? If you meant Teton, that is a long way to carry a ledge of any weight.

I don't know the specifics but grivel tools may not be available in the near future. SOmething about the American distributor (Twight I believe)hanging it up. Not sure if replacement picks will be available. Maybe someone else will distribute them. It is a shame as I have a pair of grivels that I really like, not as light as you are looking at. My buddy has an older aztar and it felt really good on waterfall ice and handles good on alpine ice. Never used the bd.

Hey Justin, Scott Decapio broke a v thread once while rappeling down in new england somewhere. He was rapping off and came to a existing v thread that was in the sun. He clipped into it without a backup. I think when his partner put his weight also on it, the anchor blew. Their rope got tangled up in another teams rope, which kept them from going all the way to the ground. I think that is how he related it to me. So there, you know one person now.

What are you looking to get out of it? There has got to be several people on this board who actually taught the course. (self included) I like to think it is a worthwhile course but it depends on where you are starting and what you want to learn. If you have no experience with alpine or glaciated mtn climbing then it is very worthwhile.

When I was into the south side of baker in march, we were able to drive within 4 miles of the trailhead. But it seems like the snow line is still fairly low. (as evident by looking out the window!) So I would bet that there is a lot more snowed over logging road right now. The mobilers going up there has an effect of keeping the road open for farther that others. One year, the entire logging road to shuksan was snowed in, from baker lake road which then involved a days walk to get to the trailhead. I would expect any glaciated peak to have significant logging road time, except for routes off ski areas. South side of baker is a bit smoggy due to the snow machines but once you get to shriebers meadowns, it is not as bad as they tend to disburse off in many directions. Their tracks are good for walking in though. One of favorite glaciated climbs was south side baker in april once you get up high. get skiis if you want to get out this time of year.