genepires

I have both the micro puff and the das. the micro goes everywhere while the das hasn't left the closet. (I am a closet gear whore) The point is, I like and use the micro a lot and worth looking at. You have to ask yourself what conditions do you really want to be and expect to be out in if you are looking at jackets. I wanted to be hardcore and need the das but alas, I am a wanker and do fine with the micropuff.

I think that one that is eating with a yellow helmet on is Darin and the one wearing shorts-over-polypro and with all the gear, leading us fools, is Mike.

so lets look at it practically. I could buy a belay only device and go out of my way to not rappel. And when I decide to do something longer than 30 meters, I gotta go get my belay and rappel device. Why not just own a belay and rappel device, which everyone else calls a belay device. Any climber is going to need a normal belay device so why waste money on this highly specialized design? This is just BD trying to make a little more money by trying to fill a small nitch that doesn't need to be filled. I doubt that we will see this around in a couple of years.

Not much to do when it is blowing and raining. I doubt that any softshell, treated or not, could withstand that weather. I got soaked once in severe conditions like that and I was wearing goretex head to toe. Hard wind will find any weakness in outerwear and bring the water inside.

why not spray water on the outside of the building and have a proper ice festival?

I think I agree with the majority here. It is a ridiculous device. Why buy something that has inherent limitations like the inability to easily rappel? Yeah you could rig some fancy biner rappel (which is something every climber should know) but why when you could just have a regular ATC for nearly the same weight. This is one of the worst designs BD ever made. Wait till someone fucks up the rappel with one of these.

I have never been to equadar so my opinion is less than perfect. But I would buy a cheap pair of plastics here (maybe an well used rental pair) and take them over there. Just to be safe and have the right gear to do what you want to do. For all seasons, not just their summer. Jason Martin has been there many times (as a mtn guide for AAI) and would be a good man to ask. He is an office monkey at AAI now and is easy to find on there website. Throw him your question. I think his username for here is jasonmartin too.

johston canyon is very cool. It is at the end of a slot like box canyon. A wierd inside of zoo looking at tourist looking in feel. I think you can walk around for tr but if not, there was a very easy ice line up. There are easy, moderate and ice pillars there. Not sure if it has lots of mixed lines.

w-13 must be some burly water rating.

go to 2 oclock falls in the david thompson hwy in alberta. Moderate angle. minimal avi hazard. close to road. easy for you to work on skills. Super fun and scenic. Take a couple days off and head up to banff for a long weekend. You will get more done in a 4 day weekend there than an entire season down here.

My car was broken into twice in squamish. Never a trialhead in canada. I have seen lots of broken glass in american TH's. My guess is that your odds of damage are greater in the states, especially that we have been in the iraq thing for so long. (Which was the start of the uncanadian behavior towards vehicles) I think everyone (except the families of folks over there) has forgotten about that place.

I think the attachment grooves haven't changed for any of the bd tools since the earliest blue carbon fiber models. (well older than the black prophet)

2 o clock falls in the david thompson hwy. Ok, it is in alberta, but it fits everything else you asked for. Take a week off and go to banff for some winter ice climbing fun. 45 degree slope will be snow covered here.

don't leave valuables in the car. The times I got broken into, they professionally got it (no damage) discretely rifled through everything, took a portable cd player and then locked the car back up. (polite canadian thieves concerned for my gear) In bellingham, they smashed the window for a couple of cd's. real lame! I have heard of cars getting torched in canadian TH's. very uncanadian like!

maybe the heli can bring wine and cheese!

Not trying to get in arguements either. Just that lots of new people read this site to figure things out (why here?) and I am just providing more info for their personal choices. but what they heck, less people are climbing anyways.

Were you thinking of bolt anchors? If the rap anchors could be made with nuts, pins and the mtn standard slung horns and pinched blocks, then it wouldn't be bad as it would be removable. Would the anchors be damaged by winter avi's? I would use fixed anchors if they were there.

Your arguement doesn't fly that well. I use thin gloves with leashes. I don't grip the shaft hard so circulation is very good. Screws go in as fine as leashless with androids. I am out of the tool in less than half second. The only thing to help with my getting the screws placements is to buy new screws. I can rest on the leash with no grip on the tool and release the other other hand easily to shake it out. Whereas you must hang on to a tool to shake out the other. It is all about the leash that lets you get out quick. Maybe in your absence, you missed out on some great leashes. You got me with the matching on tools, switching hands (and all the other fancy tool shenanegans) but I am talking about thick ice and those techniques are not needed. There is no doubt about mixed game as to what is a better system. You defiantely will get physically stronger with leashless because you have to. I not saying this as some old staunchy wool clad climber, afraid of change, but someone who tried both and didn't like the leashless tools.

most people descend the south arete. But they do your route in the spring when the arete is snow free. Or descend the gulley when it is packed with snow. I snowboarded the thing once a long time ago in the spring. nice job! Hard to imagine the hwy is still open. Did you come up from the hairpin turn or the reg blue lake trailhead?

if you are using more energy with leashes on, then maybe your leashes are either not set up right or you need some good leashes or you need to learn how to use them right. ANdroids are easy to get in and out of. (the button part must be set right so that it is not accidentally released while grabbing the head) I find it completely baffeling how people can say that leashes use more energy on thick ice climbing.

given normal summer conditions, a pataguichi micro puff is definately warm enough for rainier. I can't say I have ever worn a puffy in the cascades in the summer, but I run rather warm.

there is a good video on the mtn athelete site with some exum guide talking about his layering system. His puffy system was two thin puffies instead of one big one. That way he had diversity in temp use. Interesting idea and worth thinking about if you don't already have a regular big puffy. I have both the micro puff and das and haven't used the das yet, even with lots of trips to banff and such. Seems like if it is that cold (for the das) maybe I don't want to be out.

very very nice!

with the belay device and your connection to the powerpoint, you can have the two ropes (or rope and sling) rubbing together. This can be annoying as it is your connection to the anchor that is getting heated and possibly weakened. Having the belay device even a couple inches higher reduces this rubbing. It is also easier to pull rope through the device (main reason)like dru said.

I think there is a aluminum shaft under the carbon fiber which will do the holding of force. the carbon fiber is for dampening feel. I could be wrong though. You had better give it me for proper disposal.