genepires

Looks like friday is the one good day for getting out. ANyone want to hit some south facing rock at exit 38 or erie? (moderates) I got to be in woodinville by 4pm though. That still leaves 6 hours at 38! otherwise I may hike into abiel to check that out. gene

monkey fist for getting ropes over branches. check out caving books or boating books for crazy knots

just an opinion but for me, I have not had luck with drying boot liners in the foot part of the bag. I usually sleep with them next to the thigh or stomach. Same with the water bottle. Seems like items in the feet part just get cold, then my foot gets cold. Plus with a long bag, the body must heat up more space (with larger surface area to volume ratio). So colder feet might be an issue. Based on that, I would suggest getting a bag that does not have excessive room in the foot. Denali deserves much respect and I shutter every time I read someone trying to save money on gear that goes up there. You can save money now but regret it when you get up there.(or worse) You can spend the money now and enjoy yourself up there. things worth spending the money on: boots and overboots (lots of miles) tent (your life could very well hang on this purchase) sleeping bag (how many cold nights can you suffer at -20 in thin air with many hard days previously before you bail prematurely) pack (every day this pig will be on) stove (your life could also hang on this small item if it doesn't work) the tent should be in very good shape, better yet new. High camp can be brutal as the snow walls are hard to make and the winds can be high. If I didn't have a sleeping bag made for denali, I would go rent one from feathered friends instead of buying a subpar bag on sale. (there is a reason why it is on sale) You won't regret it. p.s. I have only used FF bags but I am sure that others can suggest other good manufacturers, like western mountaineering.

maybe too long of a drive but regular trails to peaks are dog friendly. Ex pilchuck, mellow side of vesper, dickerman in the mtn loop hwy area

it seems like the entire snoq pass would be doable for you. Maybe the walkup of guye peak and or snoq peak. Granite peak mclelans butte. for the leavenworht area, what is the peak that you see from colcuck lake? The one above 8 mile lake and use the TH that you pass to get to stuart lake TH? I would bet that trail is dog friendly. I think it is out of the dog restricive area. Cannon Mtn?

I am interested in what "other" means. Maybe it means "lame" which is where I fit in.

I would think that it won't matter if there is a little rust on it. It is on the inside so it should rub off next time you use them. Hopefully they get used so much the rust never stays on for long. Should probably dry out the liners after each trip to keep the "funk" from growing at least.

exactly! bugaboos are very similar to knifeblades, just a little longer. My previous post was more about lost arrows which are relatively heavy. I checked the BD website and the weights for lost arrow and similar sized bugaboos are about the same. #2 short med LA and the #5 short medium weight same at 70 grams. (granted the bugaboo is 50% longer) The knife blades come in at around 20 grams and small angles come in at around 50 to 70 grams. http://www.bdel.com/gear/detail/knifeblades_detail.php#knifeblades So what do all these number crunching means? Nothing really. What does a few ounces here and there mean? Nothing really. Go get whatever is on sale and smack them into whatever you seem reasonable. Plenty of cracks that no one will mind, if you hike into the mountains for a couple of hours. Smack the hell out of them. Careful getting them back out!

True that some cracks will need a lost arrow and in some situations, like on a big wall granite face or sketchy mixed climb, you don't have many options. But my idea was that the mountains are full of cracks and if the KB or angle won't fit in that one spot then looks around a little and another spot will be available. Much like when you got the wrong nut size for the crack constriction you were looking at and instead of getting the right size, you plop that little guy in another constriction nearby.

just an opinion, but I think the lost arrows are a bit too heavy for alpine use. Seems like if you need a lost arrow pin, then just looks around for a second or so and you will find a KB or small angle placement instead. I don't have the specs, but it feels like you could have 2 or more KB for the weight of one lost arrow. Not that I have placed many pins, but my ideal pin selection would be about 3 short KB and a couple small angles. (in addition to a decent rock rack)

check the forcast. rain to 3800 ft. maybe you should go for saturday.

attach that to a kong frog and you got a real zippie stick clip.

Layton gets style points for his 2 broken ankles, crawl out through the cactus, in red rocks while rope soloing.

if your forcast is fine, then your garmonts are probably fine too. (especially if you have been using them in the winter) If the weather is not fine, stay at home. If you are concerned about the temps, look into getting supergators glued onto the garmonts. I don't know about the asolo boots, but koflach boots are not too bad for hiking in. If you decide you need to rent, I would look around for them. That may be difficult as they no longer distribute them in the states.

how could it have taken 2 weeks for that quote to come out. slackers we be.

what about big snow mtn? mclellan butte? there was a winter alpine guide that dallas Kloke made years ago. Prolly out of print but has lots of smaller winter things to do, for mortals. Mostly snow climbing. He has some ice climbing in it.

zig zag on mt erie on a sunny saturday is a fine winter destination. Oh yeah, you want icy hard stuff.

can you get to mt erie?

oh, I see you got das tooth. AND whitechuck! how about Darin Berdinka and Dave Brannons trip up Hall peak from 4 (or so) years ago? W ridge of N twin is pretty good in winter too.

the best winter cascade route is the drive over i-90 on the way to banff. Haven't checked out your list but with my modest winter experience, I think the regular route on tooth is pretty cool in winter.

Bump. I bet this is in good shape right now. Hope someone gets on it but you will need good skiis for the long logging road.

sounds good. Seeing their rope management should be informative for sure. What did you use to search for those? (guess AMGA and rope management?)

who goes with a 3 person rope team? This is the newbie forum. I would hope that any newbie reading this would start out going on a glacier with 3 or 4 people. Actually I would hope that any newbie would go with 2 rope teams of 3 as a minimum for a basic glacier climb. There is another scenerio where an entirely new rope with LOTS of rope can be used to make any kind of rope system. As for my earlier scenerio, a 20 foot fall is fairly severe of a crevasse fall. There are lots of crevasses where a 20 foot fall would wedge the person. A 10 foot fall is reasonable and can easily make the drop loop. There is your new scenerio. So you see, it is usuable for some situations. To beat an old horse, it is just one tool for certain situations. There is no one way to solve any crevasse rescue situation. That kind of thinking will get people in trouble. The only reason why I am spending way too much time on this is because I only don't want newbies to have incorrect assumptions and head out into trouble. I would trust fully certified AMGA instructors over youtube videos anyday. (as well as all most anybody from this website for that matter) Any knucklehead can post on you tube or this site. I mean, like 2 chicks and a cup are on youtube. Yeah, everyone should question the teachers points and should evaluate the credentials as well as the content.

No one ever said that "they hardly ever use the drop loop system" you want a scenerio where the drop loop makes sense? 3 person rope team with a 60m rope, spaced out 40 feet apart which leaves 40 feet of rescue coils on either end. End guy falls in and cuts into the glacier at 20 feet from the middle guy. This leaves 120 feet of rope on surface, anchor to end of surface rope. Since the rope cuts in so far, prussiking and simple 3:1 won't work. A rescue hole must be prepared to the side to either haul or prussik out. The victim has sprained his wrist and is unable to prussik. So you must haul. There is enough rope to send down a loop (80 ft) and still have rope to make the 3:1 to pull on the 2:1 (40 feet). There is less cutting of the snow with the rope because there is less force per strand. Lip still padded anyway. Just one tool for a job. there is a scene where it works. you happy? I agree that men have difficulty with multi conversations. But those teachers you dismiss have done the rescue for real many times and have experience to back up their statements. gotta run.

Are you saying that the canadian AMGA is tweedle dumbs? Cause they use they dropped loop system for hauling out injured victims from crevasses. They must be completely ill informed. Mark Houston (a UIAGM/IFMGA the international guiding certification) also goes through why the dropped loop is a good tool to have for a rescue situation. Not the only tool, but one of many that people should know and practice before going out there. (in his alpine climbing book) Yeah, what do these people know about crevasse rescue? They have only been doing it for 20 plus years and a real interest in doing it right. Along with research from people who really study the physics of it, like the company Rescue Dynamics. They have an article about pulleys and use. http://www.rescuedynamics.ca/articles/pdfs/Pulley3to1.pdf Their studies (for efficiency) have shown that the single pulley is best used on the pulling end in a 3 to 1. Not a big stretch to assume that it would be the same for a drop loop 6:1 since it is just a 3:1 pulling a 2:1. And Gary Yngve, you are not missing something. I was misinformed about my physics as you obviously are superior with. I was told about the single pulley use from a AMGA head instructor but I was wrong about the physics of why. I thought it was more about heat generated from the amount of rope rubbing past. (my own hypothesis) I defer any physics knowledge to you. I have met a tweedle dumb and his name is Brian. Is there a sexist comment in his last PPS? "Just think that reading my posts is like talking to women."