genepires

what is the difference in stretch between double and single lines? according to petzl website the 8.2 has a 34% elongation and the 10.3 has a 33.7%elongation. beal - 10.2 with 35% and a 8.1 with a 37% I don't feel like doing all the makers but with these two, the elongation reported is nearly identical for the single and half ropes. Dane, what did the two falls you saw look like as far as elongation goes?

It would seem like alpine falls would generate less fall factor (or impact force) due to the fact that one would probably tumble down. So it would seem like there would be less rope stretch regardless of diameter, maybe hardly any. Now the skinny ropes cutting over sharp alpine edges are a different matter. All in all, I would think the modern skinny ropes are not a bad thing. Agree with all LW gear that doesn't last long. I haven't bought anything new in a while so I must have the good heavy stuff. (as far as boots and packs) WHat packs and boots have you seen wear out so soon? (that way we can avoid them! )

I would hope that thieves are too lazy to hike up that far. I would hope that anyone able to get up to muir has good ethics. I think your skiis are fine if left at the hut. Maybe not if it was somewhere on a slope or hanging from bolts in exit 32.

while I don't own either, how about an opinion? I would think the aztarex is better for the alpine stuff than the viper. The viper would be better for the waterice stuff. You can arrest with either, just not as easy as a regular mountain axe. Actually, the feet matter most with self arrest anyway, so the axe is of less importance. While I am not that familiar with the routes you mentioned, seems like both tools seem overkill for what you are doing with it. All of the "bad ass" routes were done originally with long straight wooden axes.

there is a video about training for rainier from a local trainer. I "think" it may be available on netflix if you subscribe to that. http://www.bodyresults.com/p1rainier.asp The above advice is all very good. For long endurance training, which you will need more than power, how about trying long and hilly bike riding? You could ride for many hours to test your summit day energy levels. Your training looks pretty sound. I would bet that you will be much more physically able to get up rainier than the rest of the other clients. Probably the most important thing for someone like yourself is learning how (and doing it) to take care of themselves physically up there. Hydration is very important and easy to let slip. Eat drink and be merry. (and sunscreen) ENjoy rainier and let us know how it goes!

I have a couple draws with lockers on them for run out darrington or squish slab routes. (where the loss of one bolt/pro would mean a BIG tumble vs a big tumble) INteresting thought about a cam deep in a crack and the chance of the biner slapping the crack and opening up.

thanks!

with some use, the wiregates will seem as easy to clip as a bent gate. If you are strapped for cash, a set of hotwires are fairly cheap and cover a wide range of uses. (cragging, ice and alpine) Having a set of thick durable draws for cragging and a set of skinny mammut slings for alpine is a very good idea. You will probably want some longer slings (reg shoulder length) for the trad stuff too.

Seems early but does anyone know if the road is open yet? thanks gene

rock crag - duty dome area alpine rock - n rib slesse alpine ice - north ridge baker glacier - easton glacier on baker pure ice - drive to banff Not the most extreme list but places I really liked.

For me, a thermal bottom and shell pants are fine. I would bet that it would be fine for you too. Bring some good insulation for your top though in case things turn ugly. (wet) More than a thermal and shell jacket. Like maybe add a synthetic puffy or a fleece jacket and a thin windshirt. It is amazing what a thin windshirt will add to your comfort.

Actually, only part of it is pathetic. There is some good in this thread. A honest good question comes out of this. Is it OK (right or wrong) to leave draws hanging on "moderate" routes? Bolts have been a sore issue for decades now (as an eye sore). Draws hanging on them obviously makes them more visable and therefore more offendable. Then we get bans to climbing in certain areas or restrictions to bolting in general. I am not suggesting that draws only are the problem, but they could very well be part of the problem. Just a conjecture and looking at a bigger picture than just "someone stole my stuff". Too bad the offenders didn't just leave them at the bottom. Stealing isn't cool.

If it is just you and a buddy, then you should have about 65 feet of rope between you. 24 wands would last you 24*65 feet (about 1560 feet) for truly whiteout condition navigation. That wouldn't last too long for a route like baker and probably shouldn't or wouldn't want to be out anyway. You could space the wands out farther if the weather was better with the plan to hustle back if weather starts to move in. FOr shuksan and eldo, 24 is fine.

nelsons select sounds like a good book for you. It also has other routes to do as "back ups" due to weather. (washington pass and enchantment routes)

depends on the route. If you want the easiest way up those peaks, then the nelson select has more details for routes. (Nelson has some hard routes too) But if you want more difficult or obscure routes, you will need the beckey guide. which routes were you thinking about?

the tent in a public place is a perfect analogy. You leave your tent in the back country and you would expect it to be there. Put it in the middle of I-5 and then......... It took someone from the south (and new to cc.com) to come up with a decent way to put it.

there will be cracks available on the side of the gulley, but you will be climbing on snow probably. for the shuksan sulphide route with the easiest summit pyramid route, you won't need anything larger than the .5 camalot. The n cascades non granite tend to have small cracks or seams. I seem to remember a couple small tcu, a couple med nuts (maybe bring the even or odd number pieces) and a smallish hex (4 to 6?) for that top. maybe a slung horn or two. Don't forget the wands for baker. 1 every rope length! (if the weather is so-so. If it is bad, go home)

Baker and eldo would not need any more pickets than crevasse rescue would require. (2 or 3 spread out amongst the team) Shuksan could use a couple more as well as some rock pro (4 or 5 pieces, small nuts hexes and cams) The summit pyramid will hold some pretty steep snow and it can be pretty soft with much wallowing around unless you get into the slough troughs. But being in a tobogan run is kinda un-nerving so you will prolly want to jump out and place some gear in the rock walls. Normal glacier travel methods will not work on the pyramid as self arrest is unreliable at that angle and snow type. Simu climb or belay pitches or solo. I wouldn't put to much faith in pickets on the pryamid but maybe the snow will be firm by then. I would bring snowshoes also. The higher elevations prolly will not need it but you will need on the lower half of the mountains. Sure you could get up them without slowshoes, but it will involve suffering. You could get lucky and not need them but odds are against that luck. extra challenges? Getting lost on the glacier in a whiteout. Bring wands and use a gps and use the map/compass. These are big wide areas that may not have other traffic on it yet. Slight deviations on baker (south side) could get you into bad places real easy. Shuksan has a nice natural handrail to guide you back except for the forest parts. (I've gotten real confused in the old growth due to new snow covering our tracks) Eldo has good handrails except for the glacier plateau where we also almost got lost due to snow burying our wands. Where ever you go,always keep a good mental image of how to get out. Usual late afternoon avi problems but that doesn't seem to be as much of a problem as navigation can be. Exception is the approach to eldo where you cross over a ridge. I've triggered a big slide by throwing rocks down it before going down. Trust the forcast and plan alternatives. enjoy!

It sounds like the stolen draws were from aborigine which is a 5.11 something right? The draws are still on the harder bits above? Maybe the fact that the draws were in place on the easier parts is what offended someone who took them down. If we had draws hanging on a 5.7, I would pull them too as that is just too lazy to remove. But in a place were there are lots of people climbing hard, leaving draws on a "moderate" line could be seen as bad form. BTW, before you raid my house looking for cheap draws, I can't climb 5.11 so I didn't take them.

good post Bob. The agreement states that all bolts should be chamouflaged (which leaving draws is not) and that no ropes will be left overnight (which fixed ropes are not). I hope that those things "disappear" soon. How is the climbing over there? (besides falling down)

what did the banner say?

For anyone who cares, the road is gated at deer creek like usual and the road is all snow from there on. Should be around for a week or two. snowshoes or skiis are nice but not manditory. Saw a small avi come down big four. Nice easy day.

I was wondering if anyone knows the road condition on the granite falls side of the mountain loop hwy, specifically is the road still gated and snowed in from deer creek area and beyond like normal winter conditions? Was thinking of taking the boy out to the big 4 parking lot to throw snowballs and run around n such. thanks, gene

http://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/upload/campclimbpermitresreqformrev3B.pdf print, fill out and mail.

my knees hurt just looking at that. good job!