genepires

Anyone ever spend the 4th of july up high on some mountain and see fireworks from everett or seattle? Sounds like a real cool way to spend the 4th but reality may not be as kind.

whatever dru.

Damn that was a good day. Thanks D! I remember a feeling of doom in the upper loose pitches. (being so far from civilization if things went bad) I wonder how many people have been back in there. Prolly not many.

try digging a t slot with a hammer or a pick. You might not have used the adze yet, but then maybe you have never had to deal with a partner in a crevasse.

You gotta give thanks to MSR for designing products without planned obsolesence. Awesome that they have lots of repair parts available, not to mention that go forever with a little cleaning once in a while.

what is wrong with your stove? Maybe it is repairable?

the cooler keeps the burgers, beer and vegetables from freezing solid. those guys knew how to eat well. yes, Gabi is too nice to me. Why would she let me go? maybe I whine too much.

a very sombering place. Not that it should matter, but the names with ages less than 30 years old seemed to make me more sad. There is a pair of 19 year olds in the memorial.

if driving for 4 hours is too much, then forget this. But if the driving is OK, then Mt Matier in BC is a sweet little 45 degree (3 pitch or so) ice face. It reminds me of a mini mt athabasca. It is north of squamish by about an hour or so, so you could include a day in squish if you had a three day weekend. A fine ice and cragging weekend. While NR baker is not too hard, it may be a bit too much for a "first alpine ice" climb. Mainly the long sections of steep snow cramponing. A fall from most anywhere would be catastrophic. If you were comfy with long sections of 30 degree neve flat footing technique, then you would be better off. Many of the cascade ice climbs are more steep snow cramponing ventures which will do you good for a future ascent of baker NR. The coleman crevasses are a great place to practice skills. Wandering around the open crevasses (staying out of the insane icefall areas) is a great way to build all the different ice techniques.

Or you could just use your 60m and when you need to rappel, chop off bits from your rope for the anchor or reinforcing/replacing old anchors. Eventually you will have a 50m and do the climbing community a favor. (I like rapping off rope anchors vs little 6mm anchors)

BTW, the kong website didn't have the info.

I got this fifi from kong that has a couple of slots for threading cord through in some way to make it lock off when weighted. I tried playing with cords and couldn't make it lock off. Anyone know how to thread the cord? thanks gene

mt dickerman onthemtn loop hwy also.

assuming you want things closer to home, so I90 options are the best. There is a trail that goes up to a saddle between guye and snoqualmie mtn. From the saddle you canhead p towards guye peak for a non technical scramble up that way. It is a very nice day trip. Not sure if the trail is a regular maintained trail or a climber track. Going to snoqualmie would be good too. Never been in there but I think that there are some options in the common wealth basin area. A bit far for you but I think Sauk mtn would be good also, especailly while there is some snow in there.

If your bag is warm enough and you wear all of your clothes, then you may start to sweat. If you sweat enough, you will either become uncomfortable at best or sweat out the clothes and bag (which will conduct heat) and then be cold. It is a matter of how warm the environment is and how warm your bag and clothing combination is. Most people get by with the smallest bag and wear clothes so that the "temp rating" for the combination is just right. But try doing that in a -20 degree bag on a august night in the cascades.

given Blake's time spent in wash pass doing obscure lines, I would say it was out that way. But the twin sister answer sounds really good too.

is that hanging kit made for the reactor or for a different stove? It seems weird that MSR would make a hanging kit for a stove they warn so heavily about cooking without proper ventilation. Hang the stove in the vestibule? or under a tree?

only rich people live in banff. regular working folk live in canmore. It is expensive to live in canmore though. Golden is getting more expensive as the ski area becomes popular. Canmore would be ideal though for access and general "good times".

get what fits. have you tried other brands? Each boot manufacturer has a slightly different feet modeling so picking the brand first may not be the best idea. my friend has the lightweight one you are talking about and loves it. There is a thread here about that boot too and it has many favorable opinions.

their website says it is good for confined space hauling. Like caving? also from their website, the applications don't mention rescue so much as normal swivel usage, such as big wall and industrial work. APPLICATIONS- • Mountain and Urban Rescue • Big Wall Climbing • Top Roping • Mining • Fire Department • Mountaineering and Caving • Arborist and other work-related • Tactical—Military & Law Enforcement • Theatrical Rigging • Telecomunications

for a regular z or zc system, there are either 2 or 3 places to put a ascender onto to replace a prussik. The prussik near the anchor point and pulley will not take more than body weight, ever, due to rope drag. It holds the victim minus the rope drag. The other prussiks are attached to the pulling ends and it depends on how much friction is in the system, you may or may not exceed a body weight in force. If you do exceed a couple hundred pounds of force, you probably still won't exceed the breaking strength needed to cut the rope. And even of you did cut it (as far as I know, has never happened in a crevasse rescue situation), the main prussik or ascender would hold the victim anyway. using the ascenders in a z/c pulley system is not a unsafe idea. what is very unsafe is to have the ascenders attached to the rope while climbing on the glacier. A shock load onto the rope (fall into crevasse) will cut the rope. Leave the ascenders on the harness or better yet, leave them at home. The amount of time falling into crevasses is so small as to not justify the weight. Get faster partners. I am not faster so don't ask me. why does reason #2 have anything to do with your decision to use ascenders?

I thought you were talking about soft people like me. split beaver is tough but I don't do OW much flying circus seems soft but that may be because I've been parked on that so many times. I am not sure that squish is soft but rather index/leavenwort is hard. Anyone who has climbed a lot in yosemite would be a good judge of what hard and soft ratings are.

not really to answer your question but here is something I have been thinking about. It seems like there are less climbers out there. At least, the rapid influx of climbers has slowed down. Maybe I am right, maybe wrong. But I suspect that climbers have turned to road and mtn biking. Maybe because it requires less time and expenses. Maybe the risk is too much. (which would be strange because I think road biking is more dangerous) wadda think?

I would think the swing would be slightly different. I used to climb with different tools (with different swings) and I still managed to get up wi-2's and such. I wouldn't call it foolish. But i am easy going. others with stick up their ass may say otherwise.

It appears that the dmm us distributors don't bring them over here. Not price competitive. try looking oversees?