genepires

So I bought a pair of skiis with alpine touring bindings on them. I have skins for them. But the ski is a ski area type that is round on both ends. The skins don't snap on these. The skin is the kind that has a flat hook to hook on the back and a loop to fit over the front tip. (I assume this is the only kind) The front tip on the ski has a plastic protector that I figure I can trip with a knife to make the skin fit on. But the back? Do I cut out a little notch? Anyone dealt with this before and can offer either useful or pointless advice? thanks gene

how does a leash support self arrest? There is a 50% chance that the leashed hand will be on the head of the axe, therefore useless. If the leashed hand is on the spike, most of the force held by the axe will be on the head end hand, which is bent and therefore stronger. People tend to fall more on the descent and in warmer snow conditions. Steps fail and people are tired. Crampons are not usually on and not an issue in falls, usually. If you fall, the out of control axe may be the least of your worries. But if it is a normal slope with a good run out, wouldn't you rather just slide to the bottom without having to pull the mtn axe out of your chest or eye? How often do average joe's casually walk above perilous slopes? If you are roped, what about the rest of the team to hold you? Not bragging, just saying this to make a point. I have guided in the cascades for 8 years and I have never had a client drop an axe. These are the people who should be dropping everything but they manage to keep the mtn axe with them. Anyone who really thinks that they will lose their mtn axe should consider their frame of mind out there.

it is wet. sorry.

fall factor is a function of how far you fall and how far you above the last protection. Rope types don't figure into it. Impact forces are affected by rope use. I don't know if you would double the impact force by using a half rope as a twin, but definately would be higher than using the half ropes as designed.

If i read your thing right, you say to place the tools close together and also to not place them close together.

Dylan Taylor made a post here one time about fixing triggers with weed wacker string. I did it to one of mine and it works great. Pass the string through the cam holes and then melt it with a lighter to make a ball that won't go back through. Feed the string through trigger and other cam lobe and cut n melt at appropriate place. His post has photos and worth checking out if you are onthe cheap with the repairs. I'll show you next time. gene

I think the "loss of axe" concern is way overrated. In the many years I have spent tromping around with an axe in my hand, I have never lost control of the axe. (this includes tons of time spent practising self arrest) When something like a slip happens, there is a natural tendency to grip hard, hence not losing the axe. Does anyone expect to be able to regain the axe after losing it while falling? No. The best thing is to either have control of the axe or get rid of it. The only way to regain control of the axe is by pulling it out of your eye socket when you are at the bottom of the hill. Maybe if I was in some thin air enviroment where the brain is only working at 25% (unlike the normal 40%), then maybe a axe leash may be warranted. Fixed lines on w butt of denali is a good example of a appropriate place for an axe leash. But I would rather climb without a leash on the mtn tool (and be able to perform a leashless self arrest) and not risk a uncontrolled axe in the groin or face.

This is not a stupid question. If there were more trip reports to the mtn loop hwy, then it would be reasonable. Trips out there have a different character. Most trip reports out there are darrington and therefore in the rock section.

On a recent trip I took, I worked on taking rests on steep ground and found that by resting on leashes (OMG! leashes!) by releasing the hand from the grip, mental relaxation, and deep belly breathing. I was able to get the pump out,especially after placing a screw. Don't believe the leashless retoric. If you need to hook in, then do it. If not, then don't. I did when I started out but after many miles, I slowly eliminated it. Don't worry about what others think about ethics. As long as you are safe and don't impact others too much, it is all cool. Your idea of the adj daisy sounds safe. I have used a draw clipped to my belay loop. The rope over the tool doesn't sound like a good way to rest as rope stretch will lower you a ways. ALso puts double body weight on tool instead of single body weight. excellant question and responces on this thread.

so much hostility. peace bruddas.

good points. thanks.

any news of the new books? been a while.

First overnighter backpack/camping about 2 hours from the road at washington pass. Heck he is only 9 months.

So I am looking at some cragging time this year with a small little 1 year old. I was wondering what some folks have done to create a place for the little ones to take that crucial mid day nap? I was thinking of a small kiddie tent that could be dyed really dark. (with padding inside of course) Reasonable? Workable? Any better ideas? thanks gene

sharing a story from a friend of a climbing buddy. They were walking down from a climb somewhere, ( I think Squamish) when the friend tripped on a root and fell down. He landed face first and smacked his face on a cut off stump, like a 2 inch diameter stump. The stump gave him a black eye. It hurt but he didn't think much of it. The next day, something didn't seem right so he went to the mirror. The eye he hit was sinking into his eye socket. He went to the hospital and the doctors determined he had torn this small membrane that holds the eye in the socket and the eye ball was slipping through the cut in the membrane. The membrane was stitched back up but it was a small thread so it was a fragile repair. He was told not to move his eyeball, to keep focused on looking straight ahead. For MONTHS! He had blinders on glasses to help. Work and climbing was out of the question. I think he became a Dead Head for a while till fully recovered.

pine creek canyon and key hole could be done in a day for max drysuit rental useage. Good "beginner" slots. Casual for usual climber types. There is a guidebook out for zion slots. I got a 100 ft static line that will get you through some canyons if you like. I also have a beater 60m half rope you can have.

schrunds usually fill in during the winter. One would expect a schrund in mid to late summer and on glaciers. Maybe a moat by mid summer.

Just showing a possible contradiction in beliefs. It is ok for the DOT to have the power to say what happens on public roads but the ski patrol doesn't have it on public lands. They are both experts in their fields and both are looking out for the welfare of the public.

but ski patrol can't say it is too dangerous to ski out of bounds while they throw dynamite around?

I have summited tons in the may june time frame. Generally speaking, the weather doesn't stay bad for weeks on end. It seems like it has a tendency to stay bad for a day or two, then get better. Maybe not sunny, but enough to get up stuff. Skiis are not needed either. Maybe snowshoes. You won't NEED them in june.

if you will be here mid week then you have lots of possibilities of getting away from the crowds. How about a little more description of what you are looking for. For glacier, try baker south side. for alpine rock, go to washington pass for one day rock routes. how about how far north of rainier you are willing to travel?

wild things line. Simple design with no BS. Damn durable too.

a cold and crying night for sure.

hey Give me a call at 206-227-9794. I left a PM for ya also. saturday? secret undisclosed location?

is the career change all hush hush secret? good to hear about the climbing/skiing. At least someone is getting out. Yeah!