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genepires

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Everything posted by genepires

  1. The rope you are using is not a static line right? In the photo, it looks alot like a static perlon from the spool.
  2. the basis for belaying force is the number of bends in the rope. A normal ATC setup has about 2 full 180 degree bends. (180 at the biner and two 90 degrees roughly at the entry and exit points of device) Your setup has three full 180 bends and the two 90 degree bends for a total of 720 degrees. This is twice as much as a normal setup so it would have roughly twice the friction power. But the way it corkscrews around the device is going to create one mother of a twisting cluster f^&k. (I think as I haven't tried your system) That monster munter has something like 1330 degrees of bend (maybe more) plus rope rubbing on rope four times for added friction. I think a regular munter has 720 degrees roughly plus rope rubbing on rope one time. I think the rope will break before the MM slips.
  3. According to the video, there should be less twists with the monster munter vs a regular munter. Something about the second wrap undoing the munter twists. If you use a perlon prussik backup, use something smaller than a 7mm or it will not grab. You need at least a couple mm difference for the prussik to work. Use a 6mm or 5mm cord for a prussik.
  4. every early morning breakfast sucks. I used to do buttered fried bagels with ton of cheese. But I still got real hungry afterwards so the pocket full of cheap granola bars seemed more important than a good breakfast. I wish I could eat that choke-meal stuff. Too much too often.
  5. If I understand it right, it seems like it would put alot of twists in the rope. While not a safety issue, it is a convience and time issue. Maybe you could post of photo of it in action. There is a video post somewhere on this site of a monster munter which should work for you on the 8mm rope. (if you end up rapping on vertical terrain on a single strand)
  6. why sell it? You may regret it years from now.
  7. good job! I would not want to be on that slab if it was all wet. I remember thinking that the slabs were runout but that the slab climbing (while dry) was easy enough.
  8. uhhhh, it also is the funniest damn thing I saw on the web in years. I liked it when he gets to the top and talks about belaying his partner up but realizes he doesn't have a rope on.
  9. a while back Dylan Taylor posted about using weedwack wire as a replacement for triggers. I did one of my cams like that and it has worked out well now for some 3 or 4 years. No special tools other than a knife and a lighter. It won't work for all cams but it will work for camalots, u stem cams and maybe more. It all depends on how the wire is attached to the trigger. It should work with rigid stem friends. here are my photos that are in the gallery of my cam. Sorry about the focus and the lack of posting skills to get it on this post. (I couldn't find the sticky to help with posting photos??) http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=46845 http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=46846
  10. no wonder the world hates us. We are spending good money blowing oxygen at our face. Wouldn't a $3 walmart fan do the same thing? on a positive note, the construction photos is a wonderful thing. I have never seen such a clean construction site. Not a piece of crap anywhere. Good looking framing too.
  11. Given that you are going in september, give my 2 day plan with a bivy on the ridge some thought. You would be able to do the glacier in the day and have an easier time with it.
  12. If you need to bring heavy boots for the gulley, consider descending the w ridge which will allow you to stash the boots at the ridge. The one time I was there, it seemed reasonable to descend the ridge and gulley. We rapped off moat bollards for the gulley. Just a thought. I have never gone down the e ledges descent.
  13. it is a "great climb" because it is highly visual to every snoq pass visitor so after a while, the thought of going up it just nags on the mind. Yeah, it is not a great rock climb but a good "alpine"-ish climb. Which means it must have a little of everything; looseness, some solidness, some scrambling, and topping out. Been on it once and I thought is was pretty good. Not one to go back to every year though, unlike the tooth in winter.
  14. ?????? You climb in a down vest? You must have no metabolism as any living human would sweat to death in anything down in the summer. Or winter or anything less than 20,000 ft for that matter.
  15. Man that sucks two ways! Sorry to hear about the man and I hope the dog gets back soon.
  16. I have never done the approach from the ski area and south but I have done the source lake approach quite a few times. From the vantage point of the tooth, the ski area approach looks like it would require more up and down to get to while the source lake approach is simple. Maybe I am wrong about the ski area approach?
  17. Pack light and bivy on the ridge itself. A little bit below the serac band is a flat place to bivy on. In august, there are rock walls around a nice dirt patch with room for a 3 person tent if you wanted to haul that up there. Bivy sacks are fine or just sleeping bags. One day in and up to the bivy so you can negotiate the heavily crevassed glacier in the daylight. Then a early start on the technical parts the next day and out. A really good 2 day schedule if the packs are relatively light. And yeah, the single half rope is good and if the thickness bothers you for the steep parts. Tie in the middle and use both strands for 30 meters pitches. enjoy! I really like that route.
  18. you asked if anyone ever knew of someone who cut a rope while falling. Man was rope soloing prodigal son in zion. Fell and his lead line was in behind a flake and cut when he fell. He was up something like 5 pitches. Of course he didn't make it. I don't know what kind of rope he had.
  19. Mike Silich who used to work at american alpine institute in bellingham. He got full amga certified so he is able to guide in europe so he moved to cham and married some french hottie woman. That is quite the organized gear area, unlike my piles in action packers. Maybe it is a full time guide, AMGA thing.
  20. just a thought but why limit yourself to just stairs? While stairs would be a good training for following a great bootpack trail, it is not very representative of real alpine. How about hauling ass up some of those steep sidewalks in downtown seattle or elsewhere? You could simulate cramponing up moderate angles slopes and get a good calf burn. The sidewalk bums could simulate objective hazards.
  21. Rad has LW biners all around and couldn't afford to lose any body weight. He is already fairly skinny and if he lost anymore body weight, his harness wouldn't stay on which would make is setup lighter. The rope is the only place left to look for weight savings unless he wants to take up bouldering or soloing, which I doubt he would.
  22. genepires

    Glacier Travel

    I have known two people who fell in a moat (that was covered like a crevasse in early season) trying to get on a glacier. For anyone getting advice on the "newbie" forum, rope up before getting on a glacier for the moat alone. I solo'd only one glacier (on athabasca) and I think it is the dumbest thing I have ever done. Every step is a question. Just have read too many crevasse stories like wickwires epic in alaska to put the fear into me. (I think he was even roped up) When it comes to questions of risk, you could ask yourself, "would this activity look really stupid in a accident journal?" For example, is it a good idea to wear helmets at vantage? Walking unroped on glaciers? Climbing ice in a major gulley on a warm day? What would the accident journal say as an analysis? Would it be unflattering? If so, don't do it. Use common sense which is hard for climbers. Now I have gone unroped up palmer and muir (permanent snowfield without covered cracks)because I don't think it has crevasses. Maybe I am wrong?
  23. How did guys back in the day get up stuff with 11mm ropes? OMG. I guess I am old school but I woudl think that 10 mm is a minimum for cragging mainly from a durability standpoint. Seems like durability and the right amount of stretch is a bigger concern than weight. but then again, I don't send 11's or 12's either so what do I know.
  24. Baker late season is a fine adventure. Very fun and thoughtful glacier travel and some exposed glacier ice make it a fun time. Don't think that volcanoes are lame, just another good time for a lame sport.
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